What kind of connectors do you prefer?

I thought it might be a good idea to insert a 100 A fuse block at the battery...

 

The fuses in the block will only provide protection for that accessory. The block as a whole still requires protection, for which I prefer to use a breaker over a fuse. It costs more but I would rather just reset and shut a breaker rather than replace a fuse in the event of a fault.

 

Thanks, it makes sense but I didn't think of it.

 

Does anyone know where i can find a variety of posi taps for cheap? I'd like to keep some on hand but expensive

 

Amazon, ebay?

 

Would this be suitable for the 100 amp fuse block add?

$47 Bussmann CB185-100 100 Amp Type III Circuit Breaker

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB1...00139FQSS?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q

 

Yes

 

Questions about these. Why do they sell them in pairs, what would you ever attach to the Neg side of your battery. Could you use the Neg one on the Pos side, like if 2 people went in on a set and each person got one and both attached theirs to the Pos side of the battery?

 

When I first saw this photo I guessed electrical. I thought it was probably from aftermarket installation of something?

 

Any wire on wire connection I soldered it, except for my fuse box that's all crimp connectors.

 

I agree also I solder and heat shrink any wire connection I make.

 

That makes sense, but aren't these just a terminal? Don't these attach to the factory battery wires and just replace the stock terminal?

 

Can't the ground wire go to the frame, and not have to be routed back to the battery? Reading above is makes it sound like for any hot wire that is brought off the battery, a corresponding ground wire must be run from the battery to the frame. I am no electrician, but have never had that suggested prior, have been told to always to make sure you have a good ground to the frame from any added appurtenance?

 

You should also put a fuse in both the positive and negative wires. That way if a short occurs, one of them will open and prevent a fire. Remember, current flows from negative to positive.

 

I was talking about the post in front of yours, when I said "reading above", where Watt maker said "You wouldn’t want to just hook the ground wire from the winch to your frame without running an additional same gauge wire from the battery to the frame or else you could overload the OEM ground wires which could cause a fire. Same goes with those high dollar, high wattage sound systems, most just ground to the body and call it good but really you need a matching ground wire from the body back to the battery." which you quoted, just trying to be clear.

 

So noted.

 

Vehicles are all commonly grounded at points back to the battery (the engine has ground to the firewall, firewall grounded to chassis, chassis grounded to frame and so on). Which means yes you can use a seat belt bolt or body bolt or screw in the metal part of the dash to ground with. However the point that was being made was to make sure your ground cable is as big or bigger than your power cable. If you run 18 gauge power you should run 18 or 16 gauge ground and keep the ground shorter. Another practice I got into early on was over grounding. I work predominantly with RF where ground is everything so i'm well versed in over grounding electronics and circuitry. Most vehicles I've "fixed" electrical issues on where literally just adding one or two 8 gauge grounds at strategic places because the factory ground was smaller than the power cable and ground points were removed or broken, etc. Any electrical issues now and the first thing I do is clamp on an 8 gauge ground jumper I made up years ago to see if ground is the issue.

 

I get that, always run at least as large a ground wire as the hot from whatever you are adding to the vehicle. I was not trying to argue any point, rather trying to discern the intent of the comments, concrete finishers know squat about sparky stuff...Was trying to figure if I needed to run a ground wire from my reverse lights back to the front of the vehicle or could I just tie a ground to the frame on the rear. Also if adding a 3 amp set of lights tot he rear, did I need to run a 12 gauge ground from the battery to the frame to make up for that added hot, had never heard that before, did not say I did not agree with the need.

 

No worries, no argument here either just trying to help and clarify as much as I can. You can ground at the rear of the vehicle and if you feel additional ground is required just do like other posts have suggested and run an additional ground from the battery to the chassis up front in the engine bay.

 

If I was going to preemptively run a new 4 awg ground from battery to chassy/frame, where would be the best place to land said cable?

Also, can one have too much ground? I added d2s 4.0 retrofits, I grounded them to the inside of the engine compartment, should I have added grounding from the battery for them?