2007 5.7 Lights on after fluid changes

Hi,

First of all, I would like to thank everyone for posting valuable information on here. My name is Oz, and I am new to Tundras.

I am going to post my problem right away and am looking for some input.

thanks all

 

Did you unplug anything?

 

Welcome from NY.

 

Welcome from OKC!
https://www.tundras.com/threads/my-wtf-last-24hrs-all-warnings-lights-flashing.102262/
see chart on post #10

 

Didn’t unplug anything at all. The description is in the post I just posted.

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)!

 

Anyway, here is my scenario.

Recently I bought a 2007 with 170,000 miles on it. I replaced a leaky high pressure PS line. I then did the oil, coolant, front and rear diffs, and transfer case.

I used Toyota super long life coolant and house brand synthetic 75w90 on both diffs and the T case. 2 days later the Engine light and traction control lights came on along with flashing VSC off and 4LO lights. This happened while I was driving. Could it be the fluid used for the diff?

Before the lights came on, the truck started shifting weird when picking up speed at around 45 MPH. I didn’t think too much of it then about 20 miles down the road the lights came on.

I was driving in some knee high brush and on a grid road at the time of the occurrence. So maybe I bumped something underneath? I checked and there is nothing obvious.

i pulled out my $30 scan tool and pulled the code P0976. I have searched for answers before making this post and found only similar posts with no luck to my case.

I tried disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes twice. As soon as I leave the house the lights come on. It feels like the truck is starting off in second gear.

thanks all

 

T

Your code is for a transmission solenoid issue and will affect the shifting. Watch "Car Care Nut" channel on YT and learn how to drain and fill the tranny fluid with Toy WS fluid while the truck is cool. Don't forget to pin the cooler thermostat open during the process. Also open fill plug prior to drain plug to make certain you can fill it. A hose and a funnel from the engine bay or a large syringe will help you fill. A pump sprayer type tank also works.

If that don't help, you need to check the wire harness to the tranny for damages or loose connectors. Either way, your tranny is due for a drain and fill. Do not flush!

 

You didn’t accidentally drain your transmission pan instead of the engine oil pan when doing your oil change, did you?

 

leaving this here...https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-tundra-wiring-diagrams-collection.81448/

 

Ok, I will try this first. Thanks for the suggestion. I appreciate it.

 

Hi, no. I made sure that I drained the right things. This wasn’t my first time servicing all of these things. I have done all before except the transmission on other vehicles. I may have overfilled the transfer case but I’m usually careful on these procedures. I will double check the level.

 

FYI. You’re not supposed to put 75w90 in the transfer case. Only the differentials. Only 75W goes in the transfer case.

 

I thought I read the older transfer cases were specd differently, no? Pretty sure OP is correct.

 

Who has a 2007 manual?

 

That may be possible.

 

There is really nothing that you have done that would cause any issues. You mentioned that you just purchased it, did the previous owner mention any known issues?

 

$39 75w 90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75w 90 in that year transfer case. Thru 2012..

 

He didn’t mention anything about the power train at all.

 

Hello everyone,

well today I finally found time to do the drain and fill as per the Carcarenut on YouTube. Just under 3 quarts came out. I took the truck for a test drive without doing anything else and the lights are still the same and everything else seems to still be the same.

I will check the wire harness to the transmission tomorrow and will let you know how that goes.

 

Ok,

so I looked under the truck today and looked at the wire harness and cannot find anything that is broken. There was a loose wheel sensor wire that I zip tied to the broken tab that holds the wire in place near the sensor itself.

There was also a broken ground cable that connected to either the transmission or the transfer case. I replaced it today.

After I refilled the transmission, I did not do anything to disconnect the battery or erase the trouble codes. Should I do that?

I was in the auto store today and saw a seafoam transmission treatment. I read reviews on this and it has a 4.5 out of five star rating. I was thinking of giving this a shot. What do you think?

Also, I was wondering if it would be OK to drive my truck. Any thoughts?

Being an old truck, would you take it to the Toyota dealer or another shop? I’m just wondering where to take it if I can’t figure this out.

Thanks for your help everyone, and all is appreciated.

 

The broken ground strap could be causing the issue throwing the transmission code; they have been known to cause all sorts of issues.

As others have mentioned, make sure you follow the fluid refill and check procedure carefully. Put the vehicle on level ground, Pin the thermostat, get the transmission temp to 105F, and open the fluid check plug. Fluid should trickle out - not stream gush out, not drip out, but trickle out. The transmission is happier with a little extra fluid than with too little fluid.

What transmission fluid did you use? IMO, WS ATF from Toyota or Aisin is the way to go. Some use Valvoline multi-vehicle but it has been known to cause chatter and some erratic behavior in some instances.

I would forgo the seafoam treatment. Properly formulated WS ATF will gently clean the transmission over time. I would much rather do a few extra drain and fills on the transmission the try a flush or cleaning f product. 230k miles of hard use on ‘13 with drain and fills every 30k miles and the fluid and transmission are both in great shape.

You can reset the codes with the scanner and see if they come back.

The 4Lo, traction control, and VSC lights could easily be from a bad wheel speed sensor. There is a spreadsheet somewhere on the site that shows which lights in combination usually indicate what problems. I was able to use a more advanced code reader borrowed from a friend to look at the body control module and determine which wheel speed sensor was being problematic on my rig after a little run-in with Bambi.

 

Hi,

I used the Toyota fluid straight from the dealer. I think I found another broken ground strap that I will tie a wire to for now to see if it helps. I think it may be a wheel speed sensor, just don’t know which one. Should I drive my truck for now or just park it?

 

I put about 2k miles on my truck before I was able to get a wheel speed sensor installed. However, my ABS didn’t work and it wouldn’t shift into or out of 4wd with the engine running (it would shift if I stopped, turned off the truck, turned the key on to run without starting the motor, and initiated a shift). Unfortunately, it was in the middle of the winter and we usually and several feet of snow on the ground from Nov-February. Fortunately, I grew up driving in snow and ice so lack of ABS and driving in 2wd doesn’t bother me. The hardest part was actually accelerating on slick roads without getting sideways, but I still do that for funsies so, again, didn’t bother me.

It won’t bother the truck if it’s a whee speed sensor. It just might disable some systems until they are repaired. If it’s an actual transmission problem, it might. There are quite a few threads about the transmission throwing codes and acting strangely from either a bad/missing ground or fluid issues (dirty, wrong type, not enough after refilling).

I’d definitely get your grounds sorted out first, though. If you do have a bad wheel speed sensor, they $$$$ code readers can tell you exactly which wheel speed sensor it is.

 

fix broken grounds and clear codes. Then, drive it and see what comes back if any.

 

https://share.google/images/05in958vFze1YvDEi

 

Unplug the battery for a bit and see if that resets anything. As long as the grounding straps have been updated/re-attached, you should be good to drive. The wheel sensor shouldn't do anything to the drivability, only light up the dash. Whichever one you repaired by tying it to the tab is likely the one you need to replace.