General Supercharger Thread

I replaced them every time as I did not want to chance it.

I also replaced the knock sensors (not cheap for 4)

 

For ya'll that have long tubes - do you recommend it? I know it will be louder, but also more efficient. I can also hear a slight leak from having 10 year old manifolds, and that's driving me nuts alone.

I know install can be a knuckle buster, but I'm not very concerned about that. How about getting the truck to idle right and not trigger CELs? How about brands - SW, Kooks?

 

I ran jba headers before going SC route. It was louder and a few more HP.
ARH headers have one air tube off the 7 and 8 primary making it easier to get at the top exhaust manifold nuts. 3 inch with 1 7/8 inch collector. Have the O2 bung in the primary tube instead of collector to avoid reversion of gases on O2 sensor which causes some idling issues. issues.https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-813#post-3925634
Factory cats or quality ones will help with codes or anti-foulers. Some headers can cause you to run lean on a stock tune, not sure if you're supercharged but a tune may be in store to get the most out of them.

 

Now I remember reading about the o2 bung location. Supercharged and tuned. I'll be doing a few other things at the same time and a re-tune will be in order.

 

I saw DD is making what is I guess supposed to be replicas of the JBA LTs. $1650 a set so a bit cheaper. I thought I had leaking manifolds and it ended up being a gasket downstream of them.

 

Injectors are in

 

Pcv acquired

 

The sound difference is big IMO, I know that I felt like I lost too much on the bottom end. If I did it all over again and kept the stock s/c pulley I wouldn't do headers. When you start pushing higher boost numbers they are a must.

 

I've been waiting for Keith to re-make the JBA without the airtube. Hopefully soon.

 

I wonder if he'll change the head connection flange to a flat style vs what JBA was using before with the projected primary tubes into the gasket surface.

 

For efficiency and engine health I think LTHers are worth it despite some of the issues people end up dealing with. If you are chasing power numbers don't expect big gains from them.

Loudness inside the cab will depend on your exhaust and how far back your mufflers are on the exhaust, more so when the rear cats are deleted. Based on the number of bird flips I get when passing people they are still loud AF and rowdy at WOT.

Biggest issue with LTHers is the Left bank right bank oscillation that occurs with the O2s sitting rear of their OEM location; adding the bung others mentioned fixes the issue.

If it matters to you, the SW aren't true 3" all the way through as they neck down before the cat back flange.

IMO count on getting performance cats. While it's been shown stock cats are not restrictive they don't always hold up to higher boost.

Knowing what I know now I would get headers again but only with a new O2 bung.

Best of luck with your decision.

 

Hopefully. I have the prototype JBA's when they were firstdesigning them. They needed a little fine tuning on the airtube and surface but have held up for the past 13 years.
I almost had a local shop chop and weld the airtubes closed when I had pulled the passenger side for the trans swap. But they couldn't guarantee the flange wouldn't warp. Just took a little extra finesse to get the 2 top manifold nuts on behind the shock tower.

 

Alright. Need some advice from you guys. Im stuck....the hose from the side of the blower to the pcv isn't long enough....itll only go on like 1/4 of the pcv barb and when I click the qc in it pops off

Ideas?

 

Anyone know if they measure the length of the hose or the entire assembly?
Should be 10"

 

I would just grab some random fuel line or whatever laying around and throw it on. That line isn't anything special and appears to be a barb connection on the top side anyway.

 

I don't have any laying around, but I can swing by the autoparts store in the morning and grab some. 3/8 would be the inner diameter?

Another question, where does the catch can get installed onto?

 

Between the PCV and the inlet that you are currently trying to plumb, if I’m not mistaken. Let me see if I can find a pic of mine installed. Super simple once you understand it. What catch can are you using?

 

Well maybe that's going to be my solution to the problem of the short hose.

I bought the Evil Energy one off Amazon

$35 EVIL ENERGY Oil Catch Can, Universal Baffled Catch Can Kit with NBR Fuel Hose, 300ml Aluminum Air Oil Separator Tank for PCV System

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081N392BN

 

The catch can connects to the PCV, on the maggy 2650, they have you reuse the stock hose and try to bend it to get on and it pops off stupid easy, the catch can fixed that problem.

 

Ohh hell yeah. Perfect solution.

 

Thanks! The catch can will fix the problem then!

 

I love my Tri-Y's on my RCSB. Got a set going on the 2019 soon as well.

 

Thats the one I have been using for a little over a year. Works fine for the money.

 

I'm putting that one on the 24 next week, I used the same one on the 18.

 

A dude definitely measured that hose when writing the instructions.

 

That's the same one I use...no issues and no oil on dipstick either

 

Same. No way I'm spending hundreds of dollars on a beer can with steel wool in it.

 

Yes for longtubes. American racing headers on mine. Sounds great.

 

An inch short....story of my life

I'm going to be getting going on day2 of the install here in a little bit.
Got my dad coming over to help. It'll be nice to have a second set of hands.