Broken bolt on intake manifold when replacing injectors

Hi All,

I am in need of advice. I was cleaning and replacing my fuel injectors and had a few leaks. So I tightened the fuel rail nuts to help and one of the bolts broke off with the nut.

Does this mean I need to replace the whole intake manifold? Any work around to get me back on the road?

 

Pics of offending bolt?

 

It's like this one but on the driver's side.

 

I bet you can extract that. On the bolt, use a lot of penetrating type fluid. Squirt a little on and let it sit a while, then keep repeating it. If you've never done it, get someone that has, but drill a hole into the end of the bolt, and remove the bolt with a screw extractor (the largest size that will fit into the bolt).

Here's a non 2UZ video for reference
https://youtu.be/bfvg7LciLRM

 

Looks like you have plenty of room if you wanted to use a screw/bolt extractor kit with a center tap punch. Good thing it’s not critical if you left it alone though.

Good thing is if you don’t want to pursue that, you can spray penetrant on the other bolts when hot and after a week of doing that you could take out the other bolts to remove the fuel rail and use vice grips to work out the broken bolt.

 

Thanks guys. I believe I can get the fuel rail back off as it slips over that bolt, which I believe is welded or formed to the intake manifold. It is a post that the fuel rail slips over and then a nut tightens it down. I am not sure if it will affect how the injectors stay seated on that side of the rail.

Maybe a metal zip tie for my peace of mind? Until I can figure out a better solution

 

If the fuel rail isn’t loose as a result of that one bolt, I wouldn’t sweat it with regard to the fuel injector.

 

I agree. I can't believe in all my intake manifold pics I don't have that one.

I will say, keep an eye on it for leaking fuel around those cylinders.

 

Thank you! I will check the injectors this morning and make sure none are leaking fuel and then keep an eye on it.

I appreciate all the help and quick responses! I will report back if it becomes an issue.

 

studs are for the rail. Bottom holes are were the manifold mounts to the block.

I had to remove this thing like 4x

Worst case you can remove the entire manifold and the injectors will come with it. Make sure you get all the o-rings out of the holes. Some like to leave a o-ring behind and you end up double stacked

wish I had better photos in my phone, hope this helps this is from back in Jan 2000. You have a 2000, so might be slightly different.

 

Yeah same posts bolts for the rail. One injector top o-ring that plugs into the rail was chewed up which caused my leak. My hope is as you guys said that it won't make much difference and allow the injectors to seal and stay sealed. That will at least keep me going until I can figure out other solutions.

There are a few intake manifolds for my year around for $50-$100 but then I have to worry about those expensive gaskets. Maybe a plan when I clean the intake or have to replace a starter.

 

The torque on those is something like 56 inch-lbs IIRC. The injectors are loosely held between the fuel rail and the manifold. The can easily be turned by hand. The o-rings and space do the sealing and get brittle and cracked. Toyota charges insane prices for these. You can get the Mahle injector seal kit for a fraction of OEM price.

 

Thank you Bfunke. I wish I would have double checked the torque on them. I was a lot more careful on the other side.

Those seals are a pain and the kind of double seal one rubber the other plastic/nylon on the top of the injector. One was twisted and kept causing a broken seal leak. I had to take it all apart 3 times each side to stop all the seal leaks and troubleshoot. Now I feel well practiced on changing injectors and putting it all back together.

I had to drink a couple shots to celebrate my final victory and ease my frustration. The job is finally done..... for now.