did I do ok- on 2005 ?

Excellent.

A broken leaf spring would raise an eyebrow as to what weight was being hauled and/or being driving... but at $3,200 you can overlook a lot of stuff.

For comparison... a guy just paid $15k for a 88k mile DC 4x4 with peeling paint and in need of a timing belt. He was so excited about the deal that he paid for airline tickets from home in Arkansas to California to purchase the truck, then paid to have the truck shipped back to Arkansas.

 

You can take that one out and swap it for an add-a-leaf for real cheap.
Add-a-leafs are pretty cheap these days.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265085184834
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133238677894

 

Welcome to "the club"!
To the original question: "did-i-do-ok-on-2005." ?
Maybe you already factored this out, but Long answer, sorry...

For $3200 and 137k miles- maybe....
Depends on your ultimate intended use: Light or heavy hauling, light or heavy towing, long or short distance runs, etc..
Most of the popularity of the 1stGen Tundra [FGTs] is their well earned rep of reliability- to a fault. Turns out a lot of original or previous owners interpret that to be a 'kryptonite truck' and totally neglect minumum maintenance, or worse, beat them like a rental, since "its a truck- it can handle it" attitudes.
Regardless, testament to their design/engineering/manufacture standards, FGTs have proven out as good or much better reliability than most domestics and hold their value longer. Used Prices vary a lot depending on truck condition and region of US where it 'weathered'.
Im not a mechanical engineer, just a FGT 'upcycler' [needed a reliable tow vehicle and didnt want NEW $800/mo tuck pmts] but fr/all Ive read on here or conversed w/mechanics, FGT weakness's are not their drive-trains, but more often their sub-frames, if not regularly washed after several seasons of SNOW-SALTED ROADS. Even then, there are still lots of them running around productively w/pickled tube rails whose owners know enough to not over-burden whats left of the frame to still get minimal truck service out of these trucks. Just have to make an honest assessment of it and correct what you can. Otherwise, even when they have a mechanical problem, their OnBoard Error Codes usually let you know what the problem is and the downloadable Toyota Field Service Manual just about gives you line by line guidance on troubleshoot and DisAssembly/Reassembly.
I cant think of a more documented and owner repairable truck vehicle since the mid 70s Chevs....for parts and published tech knowledgebase.
Bottom line, to me, is to know its [FGT] limitations and the ensuing cost of parts/mechanical service if one is not up to handling it personally, like me. [ 1. Lwr Ball joints, 2. Timing Belt, H20Pump 3. Radiator 4. All fluids Flush: < $700 parts; +/- 3x that for competent mechanics]. All worth it to keep it reliable.
Summation: For your acquisition cost and odometer, it looks like you're ahead. Expect to do the above R&Rs if you want Reliability/Saftey.

You dont say where the truck spent most of its life [NE, SE, SW, etc] That would give an idea of its lifetime weather exposure and what to expect out of the frame/chassis long term. If your frame is hanging by a few rust threads, then a different matter. Only a GOOD inspection after a good bottom wash can show that reality.
If youve come this far asking input, your likely on the right path.

About bed removal, see this link for posts 69481 to 69483...its what I did to this '06 that spent its 19yrs, b4 me, in CentralVly, CA.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2317#post-3890739

 

Used car prices are still crazy since COVID. For what you paid, you did fine. I bought my 2000 used in 2005 when prices on a 5 year old truck were low and it was beautiful. It lived it’s first few years in Norfolk and 19 years in SC. Frame has no rust but despite washing and waxing, the clearcoat failed and the paint is ugly. Mechanically, it’s perfect but I’ve had to replace most hoses and plastic connectors under the hood due to heat deteriorating plastic.

You haven’t shown us pics of the rust you have but rust is like cancer and it never sleeps. If it’s very limited to quarter panels you could weld in some good metal and fix it depending on your skills. Perhaps a new bed from a junkyard would be an option. If your rockers or frame are rotted that’s a much bigger issue.

Depending on your needs and wants, enjoy it, maintain it and maybe fix some of these problems. Post pics and questions and we can help or at least provide advice based on community experience.