What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yep, under the feet, exactly. I had a gravel drive (still do now) so it was no worry. Hopefully that solves it for you
I think I used DeepCreep so it would migrate in there deeper, but silicon based (smaller molecules) helps

 

Not to interject, but since I sold it to him, I bought it from Taco Vinyl which is a local-ish shop located in Boise, ID.

https://tacovinyl.com/

 

It's actually not that bad since I did the shocks all around. But she can handle a fk ton of weight. It was a construction companies truck (shadow of logo on door) and I think it may have even been a plow truck/and salter?
I wish I had pictures, but there was a strange bracket in the engine compartment on the passengers side when I first bought it... like aux electric/hydraulic/or something? I'll see if I have a pic by chance.
But bastard packs make sense for a construction company.

EDIT: found one, it's not very good, but maybe someone will know.

 

New starter is in, and new knock sensors are in. Hoping to get the coolant bypass pipes back in after lunch.

Wrapped my knock sensor wires in hardware cloth. Should largely prevent mice from chewing in them, but it's not perfect.

 

Awww they each have their own little faraday cage

 

How was that job, swapping the starter?

 

Poor man’s armored cable so critters can’t bit through them supposedly. I’d go with flexible metal conduit myself if it was an issue.

 

This is the stuff I've been using for exterior IP cameras where the network cable could be exposed to cutting/tampering/UV because it's cheaper than buying CMX-rated cable for something that'll only have max of 5-10ft exposed. It works well, and comes in a few different diameters under the product name "electriduct".

​

 

Got the new tires on. They look and ride really nice so far.

 

If I could choose, I'd get that color and cab, but in a 02 to 00. That's so nice looking dude!

 

It’s a moderate job especially when you have to do it twice because you put a remanufactured started in the 1st time like I did.

 

It sucked, but my truck is VVTI. I bet it's a bit easier on your non VVTI truck. I'd honestly rather pull the transmission out of my Subaru again than mess with this starter.

Not poor, just cheap

 

Well, I finished with the hardware cloth, and got most everything under the intake back together.

Unfortunately my mind was spent, and I refused to quit, and made a rather stupid mistake... I thought the O-ring for the coolant bypass was giving me a fight so I kept tightening the bolt and broke my water pump... so now I get to replace that and the timing belt . Is the kit from Rock Auto the way to go for it?

I should of just quit and looked at it tomorrow with a fresh head.

 

Yes, this one: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3290529&cc=0&pt=5759

 

Ouch! Must be cast aluminum.

 

New versus old tires in the fender. The new ones stick out slightly more. I love the way they look over the stock T4R Michelin Defenders that came with the rims.

 

Is there an easy way of getting these backer plates off without pressing off all of the bearings, seals and retaining rings? As can be seen, the driver's side shaft has a stud cut off so they could remove it from the old rusted out axle. Unfortunately, that is the one I need to use for the axle shaft that is bent/bad bearing. Or should I just say screw it and buy a completely new assembly and call it good?

 

Grinder is the only way that's coming off quickly without a press. But you'll need a press to install the replacement. That bolt is a serrated bolt and pressed into the bearing housing/backing plate, so you could get a ton of penetrate on it and hammer it out, then reuse the bearing housing and backing plate.

Don't say screw it and buy a new axle unless you're prepared to do the press work or have it done either. The only pre-pressed axles are aftermarket and of questionable quality.

 

No, I was planning on getting new from the Toyota sale if I did. The shop that is working on the truck doesn't have the correct press setup. I'll keep looking. The backing plates on these are shot from the rust. The ones on my new axle are much better shape but the axle shaft itself is bent slightly unless a bad bearing can cause the tire to wobble.

 

We mowed sans trailer two yards.

Hooked up single axle and got three more. I was hoping for 8 yards today but that was overly ambitious. Truth is, we plan to cut out the remaining truck-only yards at the end of the season. We lose too much time (money) keeping such yards up.

One of the yards the wife has to block traffic so I can get backed back out into the road. The other, can't fit the trailer now that the city went and put a sign up right in the way!

Should get some good "truck working" pics tomorrow. Cutting down a row of overgrown bushes and trimming a big walnut tree. Hauling it all off to the landfill.

 

Ooof. Had that happen once with an autozone starter

 

Thanks. 10% more off this weekend...but looks like it only fits DC

 

Have seen a pipe used in this video from 16:00 onward.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uY8pljevOY4

 

Dude just buy it and trim the legs. That's what I did. It's like 1inch that needs to be cut. I used a band saw.

 

Moving on up!


Snagged the bedrug this morning.

 

Thanks for the link. Anything else I should look at replacing while it's apart? I'm thinking the fan bracket (my radiator, serpentine belt, idler puller, tensioner, alternator, and radiator are all pretty new).

Also, do most people pull the radiator when doing the timing belt? I know it's not required, but thinking it might give me more room.

 

Fits like a glove. I decided to drill some holes and screwed in some washers in lieu of Velcro. I just have to figure out how to set the tailgate flap, so it doesn't get stuck in the gap when I close it, and prevent it from closing.
Once that's sorted, I'll drill thru it and use the tailgate cover bolts with washed to hold it on. If I have to, I'll just cut it.



Man within like two weeks Penelope went from a dusty, dirty, leaky, rustic camping experience to an insulated, water tight glamper.

I just need that harness to come in so I can power the brake light and dome light.

 

Just get a roll of hook side velcro dude! Why the hell you drilling something new that's practically irreplaceable?!

Like this:

$39 VELCRO Brand 75Ft Business Size Bulk Tape Roll | Hook Side Only | Sticky Back Pressure Sensitive Adhesive | For Large Home or Office Projects | 25 Yards by ½in, Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DYB4ATY/

But I'm sure you can find it less expensive. Use rubbing alcohol on the area you plan to fasten the hook-only side to. IIRC, the loop side is sewn into the foam, so all you need is the hook side to complete it.

 

Some pull, if only to avoid damage to the radiator fins, and provide another 1.5" of working space in front of the pulleys and crank. You can technically drain/strain the coolant and reuse if it's less than 3-5 years old.

Other things you may want to do ... t-stat if not new, and any gaskets on/around the t-stat housing. Be sure not to pinch the camshaft position sensor's wiring under the edge of the water pump during install.

 

Because wild card?

I like it how I did it. Goes well with the pennies.