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2011 5.7 new pumps and new air injection valve getting 2445 and 2447 code

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by gypsycatfish, Jul 27, 2025.

  1. Jul 27, 2025 at 12:22 PM
    #1
    gypsycatfish

    gypsycatfish [OP] New Member

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    Had water in pump bank one. Installed new Dorman pumps and Dorman valve. I am getting 2445 and 2457 (pumps stuck off both banks). I cleared codes with scanner and also left battery cable off over night and put a jumper from positive to disconnected negative cable.it comes back and i did not want to drive it and damage parts. I have read many pages about the Hewitt by pass kit, but not any posts on how to fix this problem. i just want to use the parts I have already installed. Any ideas of what could cause this? I plugged the wires onto the new valve and cannot think of anything else (I also plugged in wire that runs over the valve to the harness). Is there another part that could cause this or only a bad valve or wiring? 2011 5.7 only 80,0000 miles.
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2025
  2. Jul 27, 2025 at 2:13 PM
    #2
    gypsycatfish

    gypsycatfish [OP] New Member

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    I just applied power to both pumps at the connection and both ran fine. The valve is really two separate electrically powered valves, unless both are defective (unlikely), it must be something that opens the valves, which I assume then powers the pumps. There must be a pressure, temperature switch, or some sort of controller that tells the computer to power the valves to open.
     
  3. Jul 28, 2025 at 5:47 PM
    #3
    gypsycatfish

    gypsycatfish [OP] New Member

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    I discovered that pollution error codes that say permanent after them, cannot be erased by a scanner nor by disconnecting the battery. The computer has to see the problem has been fixed and it will take several run cycles to reset the code. It will not let you fake it for an inspection. I will know soon if that is correct. If you have a bidirectional scanner, you can disconnect the hoses from the pumps and run each one to feel the air output. Run the engine and command each valve to open and you will feel the exhaust gases coming back toward the pumps. If you replace your pumps, make sure you keep the wires for each bank running with the correct hose. I don’t think it will affect the running if you get them mixed up, but if you get an error code for a pump, the computer will think it is for the other bank. Take the old foam filter out of the top of the pumps and put one inch id k& n filters on the intake tubes. You have to cut a little of the flare off the tube and cut a split between the tubes to install the filters.
     
  4. Aug 5, 2025 at 6:04 PM
    #4
    General_Zod

    General_Zod New Member

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    Just doing a replacement of the entire system. Double check the snorkel tubes. Mine were choked with cement dust and water ( almost clay) one was solidly blocked , but definitely check the pump outputs. Also clear the pipes leading to the valves in case some fine dust and debris gets pushed forward.
     
  5. Aug 7, 2025 at 8:12 AM
    #5
    gypsycatfish

    gypsycatfish [OP] New Member

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    General_ Zod, you are correct. I added filters on the air intake horns, I found 3 brands that fit, 40 each k&N, some 20 a piece, I used 3DSkY 6.99 on Amazon they appear to use the same filter material as the more expensive ones, maybe not as good but for this purpose, good enough for on road use. I plan to write up details and part numbers when I get a moment for all parts and information that I learned in the process. I removed the original foam filters (credit to a couple of guys on utube for the filter idea).
     
    General_Zod likes this.
  6. Aug 28, 2025 at 7:00 AM
    #6
    gypsycatfish

    gypsycatfish [OP] New Member

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    I am still getting pending, current, and permanent p2245 and p 2447 pump one is stuck in off position and pump 2 is stuck closed (scanners description). After sitting over night, i pulled both pump hoses off and started the engine. Both pumps were on and I could fill the exhaust pulsing on the valve tubes they ran about 30 seconds 68 degrees outside. It appears they are working. I did three drive training trips. It has gone into limp mode twice but runs fine otherwise. It has been driven about 100 miles. I ran the automatic air test with my x tool 8s scanner and it failed. I can do the manual test with scanner and pumps and valves work. If not for possible limp mode I would not worry. Any ideas.
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2025

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