2006 Toyota tundra fuel injector clogging issue

Yes, I took both intake lines from the brake booster off(it has one line that goes from the brake booster to the double barbed metal tube then the second tube that goes down to the back of the intake)and checked for cracks/capped one end and blew into it to make sure it wasn’t leaking, in which it was not. It’s funny you mention the ECU because I out of honestly pure desperation to fix the problem I bought a numbers matching pre-programmed ECU to see if that was the case. And indeed it wasn’t, had the exact same erratic and inconsistent readings on my scanner. if I put that ECU in and a couple codes would’ve came off it would’ve made me think that yeah maybe it was the ECU, but I’m pretty positive it never was. This is definitely what I would call a “parts throw” at the truck. But non the less I’m going to watch the videos and keep trying to see if I find anything.

 

Alright I’m back so here is what I found. I drove my truck to compare some of my live data to what shifty’s live data readings were at temp and they are almost the exact same except for my high fuel trims and bank 2 sensor 2 reading which was .34 volts. No leaks on the intake whatsoever. Capped the brake booster vacuum line and smoked the whole intake and nothing. Took the air intake tube off and capped both ends off and used one of the vacuum ports on the back and filled it with smoke while capping the other 2, and got no leaks. Took the new oem maf sensor and swapped with the old oem maf sensor and got no change, still reading 5.02 g/s at idle with ac off. Reset the computer just one more time after all the changing of parts. Truck now is not running 44.5 on the long term fuel trims but still reading too high (around 25). Idle stopped being so rough but still have a feeling it will be back along with the high fuel trims once I drive it more. I drove it a total of 3 times after this to see what happens and it’s just gradually going up on fuel trims and check engine light came back of course. I started going back through the service manual again and I’m reading everything for the codes P2195 and P2197(those are the stored codes I have at the moment). I’m going to try to attach a photo of my upstream o2 sensor and I was going to see if looked like what it should. What I mean is does this look like an OEM sensor? The more I read in the service manual the more it sounds like it’s the O2 sensors when it talks about voltages going high on acceleration. I highly doubt both are bad just like what shifty said, but I’ll see what y’all think.

 

Looks normal to me, but … is it possible you got the wrong part number? Where did you get your part number from? Where was it purchased from?

 

So I had got it through an eBay seller, and yes I didn’t know about the counterfeit parts issue with some of these till I started reading the forums. However these did come from Japan (Japanese seller) and the part numbers are exact to the old ones. Box looked legit and everything.

 

Sounds feasible, but back to the question: Are you 100% sure you got the correct part/part#? I don't think you do, if what you're showing is the part you ordered. And that would absolutely be a cause in this case, using the wrong upstream sensor, so your ECU can't properly read/detect the fuel/ox mixture coming out of the engine.

I looked up the part number on that sensor, 89467-04060, and it shows a completely different part number when I consulted the EPC on another 2006 Tundra DC V8, whose VIN I snatched off the internet. Last five of the part number you chose, versus what I see in the Electronic Parts Catalog are different, which is usually the sign of a variation in model, i.e. you may potentially have the wrong part number. If you want to send me your VIN in a PM, I can confirm.

But, I can almost assuredly tell you: You bought the wrong upstream sensor. Because (see 2nd picture), Toyota's own parts system also says the sensor part number pictured is for 2007-2013 trucks...

This is also why you don't buy on fleaBay and scAmazon: Their parts compatibility is complete fucking horseshit.

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Oh dang. Just went back and looked at the order. Right part number on box. Same number on rock autos website. It’s interchangeable part number does match up 894670c010 but the sensor number is off as far as on the part, your right. The first pic is the order info. Second pic is my upstream o2 sensor from the original blown motor ( this is the only one I retrieve from it since other one its wires were cut from a previous vandal, long story). So you’re definitely on it. What I just found though too is the wire length of the part I bought from eBay is 8.66 inches. Rock autos Denso upstream o2 sensor wire length is also 8.66 inches. This one I retrieved from the blown engine showed in the photo below is only 5 inches. Shouldn’t the one from rock auto be 5.1 inches as well? Or is the one I pulled from the engine not right either?I can’t believe I looked over all this.

 

Here’s the vin number for my truck as well.
5TBDT44176S534582

 

Part parameters change, I wouldn't judge anything based on that.

Blown engine? I wasn't aware of a blown engine, but that's another topic. Maybe I missed something.

EPC for your exact VIN: https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/uck41/3812/

Switch & relay exploded, which has your sensors: https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/uck41/3812/electric/8401/?full

Click on the upstream aka 'air/fuel' sensor, correct p/n is: 89467-0C010
Click on the downstream, correct p/n is: 89465-0C160

Next, I go to Denso website, www.densoautoparts.com

Looking up your truck, here are the part numbers (below). Hmm... I think you might've gotten boned by your supposedly Japanese seller, selling parts from Japan if they were selling you that Denso part number, with that OEM part number. (more info after the image)
(Once again, I suspect your part is counterfeit *AND* wrong, my friend - don't buy auto parts on scAmazon or fleaBay!)

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Last but not least, I went to RockAuto and plugged in the correct Toyota p/n:

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It returns:

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I put in the p/n on your part from your pic, womp-womp, it returns:

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Reason I didn’t look to much into the numbers on the sensor or considered wire length when I received the items from eBay was because I heard that some auto companies when they re-manufactured some parts were not always to the absolute exact specifications as the original equipment, in which happened with my Honda when I purchased an oem o2 sensor straight from the dealership, it was very close in dimensions but not exactly the same. Nonetheless, this pretty much seems to be the wrong part and highly probably a fake. Can’t believe i fell for it. I went and found some negative reviews buried on this eBay’s seller site and found that some said when they installed them they had fuel trim levels hitting 40.5 and there truck sounded like a diesel whistling on acceleration in which has happened to me before. The exact issue I’m having as far as fuel goes. WTH how did I miss this.

 

YUP! Anyway, tl;dr --

You have the wrong upstream sensor installed. I'm not saying that's your problem, but your ECU sets the fuel trims based on input from the O2 sensor. And your fuel trims are fucking wack. And you clearly appear to have a fuel sensor for a 2007 Tundra installed on your 2006, which is a diff't part.

You may buy the correct sensor and it still doesn't fix the issue. But clearly, this is an issue. And the correct part is only going to cost you $120: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1606992&cc=0&pt=5132&jsn=4

Thanks for joining my TED Talk.



(Oh, and when you install the correct sensor, pull the negative batt cable for 10mins to force a relearn!)

 

Thanks man, I really appreciate it. I feel stupid now. I’m going to get those ordered from Rock auto to at least check that off the box.

 

Don't feel stupid. Be thankful you took a minute to stop, ask questions, hang in there for 2 freaking pages on an internet forum with strangers, and have now (hopefully) figured it out. And it may only cost you $120.

I can only imagine what would've happened if you'd have paid a Toyota dealer to run diagnostics. I seriously doubt they'd have taken the upstream sensor off to inspect p/n. I'm actually surprised you pulled it also

 

I was in the works of literally doing exactly that, taking it to the dealership. Once I get those parts in, I’ll be back and update. Thanks again.

 

Well I’m back. Installed the new o2 sensors from rockauto. Reset the ECU by disconnecting negative terminal. So far so good, driven it 5 times now. No check engine, no more spudder on idle, and is driving a whole lot smoother. I’m confident the light is going to stay off just by the way the truck feels driving compared to what it used to feel with those bad o2 sensors. I just wanted to thank everyone for their input and suggestions on this headache of a problem but I learned my lesson. Buy the real deal oem parts. Especially thanks to you shifty for all the research on those crappy eBay 02 sensors. Don’t know if I would have ever realized that on my own.

 

Live and learn, glad you're good to go! Hang around, there's some good folks here, many are willing to help, and not in a dickhead-ish way.