General Supercharger Thread

Sent

 

It's yours, PM me where to send it.

 

What pulley size was in your kit @nags ?

Nice to finally see these kits getting installed, had mine in since the previous Friday. Had a fitment issue with the intake box, figured that out(was the sabm/whipple bracket changing the two lid angles coming together). Then I've been having slow starts, truck turns over 2-3 times then fires up. Drove it today and initially had a slow start, then when leaving the hardware store it fired right up.

Also, I have the morimoto headlights, so we put the IC pump tap on the injector fuse. I swear I heard/obseved the pump running as the resi was bubbling. So unsure why power would be hitting that fuse with no key in..

Haven't got on her to much since I only had time to correct the intake issue this morning, but prior saw highest of 6.8 psi and dipped into 10.8 a/f on a different little pull where I actually was paying attention.

 

GX460 can take the longer 2UR GSE IS F oil filter cap. This allows the 5.7 oil filter to be installed on the GX.

 

What tune are you running? the canned Whipple tune?

 

Yes, canned tune. But, with the walbro pump as I didn't want to drop the tank again. So, I was thinking it may be due to that pumps configuration in the basket.

 

The only issue with using the walbro 450 mod 267 in a non-flex canister is the venturi size. The 267 model fits nicely in there but the venturi can be slower to fill. Reason why they recommend using the flex canister as it has a bigger venturi to keep up either the 450. I have this setup and have not had any issues. Not sure if they still have you make holes in canister but to me that's not a proper setup. Not that's your issue?

 

I don't have rebuilt motor filter experience, but this is less metal than I expected.

Also, is dyno oil darker than synth? This seems really dirty for under 500 miles.

 

Funny you mention break in oil. I just changed the oil in my blazer and it was way darker than I expected. 40 miles on a fresh build 383 with Driven 10w-30 break in oil. It was dark and dirty but no glitter. Just some mud on the magnet.

 

Lots of assembly lube will turn the oil dark. I wouldn't worry.

 

This

 

This is Lucas 30.

$37 Lucas Oil 10631 SAE 30 Racing Engine Break-in Oil - 5 Quart

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INXYZH0

Good there was no glitter!

 

Appreciate this reference. Fingers crossed there will be a few break-in oil changes happening on my end over the next few weeks. Driven 5w-30.

 

I did a dozen runs from 2500-5000 in second gear and then 40 miles of spirited driving and changed it for Mobil 1 15w-50 per my engine builder. It’s a different additive package than the regular 5w-30 Mobil 1. Ill do another change in a 100 miles and then let her run.

 

I've got the XAT recommended. I'm opting in for the additional 250 miles of low load, moderate RPM on break-in oil for a total of 500. Then big boi fueling, exhaust, and Dyno session nearly immediately after. Goal is to be completely done and dialed in by mid-September so I have a few weeks to use it before returning to the office

 

I'm on 5-40 Mobil 1, builder didn't give me a next change interval. What do you guys think I should do?

 

I use assembly lube on absolutely everything, then when the top end is together pour a quart of more over everything. Break in oil I'm not super anal about, on my LS I used amsoil I think straight 30W break in oil, on my 2JZ I didn't use anything. Changing the oil sooner rather than later was more important imo. First oil change I did like three drives in. Then next at maybe 500-1000 miles. Then 5000 miles after that assuming the oil is looking clean and happy. I figure assembly lube is extremely important, followed by flushing as much oil through and changing it out just since there's bound to be shit in the engine.

 

So 1k on this oil or since the break in was so dark & filter so clear go 5k?

 

I would change the oil in another 1000 miles if it was me. Like the others said, it being dark isn't necessarily bad, but I'd rather keep changing it at premature intervals until it's looking good. That's probably extremely conservative though.

 

I'll go 1k.

Thanks

 

I've posted this before, but the oil change intervals seem to be what is key. Mind you, break-in oil is not your normal oil, so mileage will vary. I'll be off Driven at 500 miles (I'll be doing a total of qty 3 Driven oil changes during this time) and into Mobil 1 5w-30 for probably 1500 OCI, then to a traditional 5k mile OCI starting at 5k miles. Oil is cheap, IMO.

My build will also be fogged prior to start up.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1odDExk3-MLRrAlGBnftJH8tIWAkq32cW/view?usp=drivesdk