2001 tundra securtiy help plz

I have a 2001 tundra and I try to put a new ECM in it and the dash and everything went off and I had no crank and I figured something was wrong with that one but I've got to put the original one in and the same thing has happened I figured out I set the anti theft off which usually when I put a new battery in it it'll honk and I just have to click the little red button that is on my dash to turn off the key on this is not working I get a door open light on my dash and also get the two lights on my doors but I can't figure out how to get it right I tried looking for the anti theft the dealership put in and can't find it but I'm just super frustrated with this truck...please help

 

Did the new ECu part number (it's printed on the ECU's sticker) for the new one match the old one?

You didn't do something dumb, like ... try to install the ECU with the battery fully connected and power feeding the truck, right? You need to remove the negative battery cable before doing something like replace the ECU. You DO NOT want to swap it out while the battery is still feeding the ECU power, else you'll probably pop a fuse or two, either under the hood fuse box, or inside the dash fuse box.

Why were you replacing the ECU in the first place? What symptoms were you having?

In general, if you didn't do so, heed this: Any time you're doing ANYTHING ELECTRICAL on your vehicle, ALWAYS remove the negative battery terminal, to kill the power flowing through circuits. Just the negative terminal will work fine. Positive terminals have a penchant to spark. And especially if the thing you're working on is SRS-related (i.e. the connectors are yellow it's tied to airbag/collision, or if the connectors are orange remove power also)

 

Yes it is the same ECM and I disconnected the battery and waited the 10 minutes I got supposed to all the fuses seem good. I didn’t check the relays yet but it’s just odd
I took the ecm out because I was getting no signal to odometer or speedometer with a good VSS and connection between that and the Ecm

 

Your truck doesn’t have immobilizer. Not unless it has an aftermarket alarm. Is there any evidence of an aftermarket or dealer installed (non-factory) alarm system? A red dash mounted LED somewhere, possibly blue? Any black boxes zip tied up around the steering column, visible T-Taps on the wires under the driver side of the dash?

 

yes a red button by steering column I tried to track the wires back but it seems to go far back in there. Once i find it do I just cut it? or will i have to rewire it?

 

Dunno. I need pictures. Take two clear photos of the overall view under your dash. If you can, one "overall" shot of everything under the dash, and another that covers all the wiring from the plastic kick panel over to the steering column.

With those two, I can probably tell you what to focus on, what to do.

 

first one is over view ans ones the ignition and i dont know if this is importacnt but the red led light is on the left sideof the steering column and it flashing

 

No images.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ayyw4jl171xb1CUs1HdTkL0oJoG0Fsiv/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZN7OrjeNPQCivkxAUPcjVNymyZX8AsVY/view?usp=drivesdk
if the imiges didnt work on the post before this... i really appreciate the help thx

 

What an F'n mess....no wonder it don't run

 

I mean it ran before I messed with the ECM but ya defiantly a mess any suggestions?

 

found the main security box i dont know how to add photos but the picture where you said it was a mess all comes from where the box connects to should i remove all that? like the remove everythign that atraches to the security box?

 

If using an iPhone or iPad copy your photo and paste into your post.

 

Ooof.

Before you get crazy...

Understand a couple of things. I can only see what I can see here, and it's not a lot. But you must know:

• Some alarms require full intercept of wires to the ignition circuit, meaning, if you just start unplugging wires willy-nilly, you may break your ignition circuit (temporarily), and if you don't hook things back up the EXACT way they were hooked up, you may go from [crank-no-start[ to [no-crank-at-all]
• If you find the brain box, give us any numbers you find on it, so we can look up the brand etc. We may be able to direct you toward info to uninstall, or point you to a nearby shop you can pay to uninstall
• The brain boxes on most aftermarket alarms (decent ones at least, of the era yours would be from) typically have white connectors that plug into the brain, before you do anything, simply put, try unplugging the white molex connectors from the brain, one at a time, then try starting the truck after each pull; if there are multiple, I recommend starting with the plugs that have the skinniest wires first. This example has three; I would start with the far right on this one, then try to start, then move to the far left, try to start then unplug the middle and try to start.

​

Other things to note:

• I see at least two different relays - the black cubes with white writing on top - wired in, but I'm not fully sure what they're controlling
• I also see the red t-taps near the fusebox, those things are pretty notorious for damaging wires, and you'll need to seal over the wire casing where those are **IF** you end up removing the alarm
• There is a VERY SOLID chance on of those relays is tied to your fuel pump circuit, and if it died, that's why you're not getting fuel, and unplugging wires isn't going to help.

 

Here is one of the two relays I saw, at least I swore I saw another one. There's just so much fucking spaghetti under that dash, good lord! Seeing all those mystery butt-spliced lines on top of the e-brake pedal in Bubba's 2nd picture, along with all the random non-OEM connectors, and electrical-taped connectors everywhere ... I could spend all day trying to figure out who did what to this truck! And I dunno if you can see it, but the little knot-loop between my arrow here, and the foam-wrapped blue connector, that loop looks like an antenna wire for an alarm brain.

​

 

this is the alarm box those red connectors your talking about seem to be coming from the alarm box that’s black wire or what I thought you were saying is the intena also comes from the box. Also I’m not getting any crank

 

Yes. That would be one of the boxes, and the number on it tells me it's part of the SECURIKEY+ system dealers were installing into these trucks on the lot, then upcharging buyers $1k-3k for it. Ugh.

Stupid question, but in that 1st picture, I see a red 10A fuse in the picture. Can you doublecheck that fuse isn't blown?

 

yes i already checked the fuse is all good

 

Is that a toggle switch in top left corner ?

 

And I'm guessing if you unplug that white connector in the right-hand side of the brain (I haven't looked at the SECURIKEY+ install manual, mind you), then try to start, nothing changes? (It's likely intercepting the ingition wire, so it may not crank).

 

May be wrong, but I think that may just be a bolt with a vacuum cap over it.

EDIT: But if it is, and that's the valet switch, that would be awesome to kick it into valet and see if the problem goes away. On some of these SECURIKEY systems, the red dash LED light it uses doubles as a button you can push in/out also.

 

yup it's a bolt I just checked but I watched a video of this guy who just cut the red connectors and re connected the original wires and it seemed to work and then just cleaned everything up

 

I have a video of someone uninstalling the SECURIKEY+ system from a slightly newer vehicle.

I also poked around and found someone on Reddit who said you can simply unplug the white connector on the side of that SECURIKEY+ black box, and all of your woes will go away (but you'll also potentially lose keyless access).

Here's the video I just referenced, and the manual, I took from this reply over here:

More info on Securikey: http://jjguy.com/securikey/

Securikey manual: http://jjguy.com/securikey/securikeycommonmanual.pdf

Video of uninstalling SECURIKEY in an FJ, yours may be similar - the risk is, if you don't restore the OEM wires color-to-color (matching), you may be screwing yourself:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K--4L6DMjRY​

 

Got it working just had to reset it thanks so much

 

How did you rest it?

 

I disconnected the battery and connected the postive and negative together to get rid of charge and while i was at it i cleaned the battery and terminals and waited 15 minutes

 

I had the same alarm system as you and ripped it out. It was parasitic and also kept my lights on if I didn't statically set them to off. If you need some pictures of the after I can help you out, I still have it mostly exposed.