ABS Sensor, Speed Control Sensor, or both?

I have a 2005 Toyota Tundra with almost 275k miles on it. About a week ago my ABS light came on, then yesterday my speedometer, odometer and cruise control stopped working. Could it be the ABS sensor or Speed control sensor? are they one and the same? If this is the problem, where specifically are they located?

 

They are one and the same as I recall. The sensors themselves are mounted to read tone ring, and the alignment and cleanliness of the sensors is important.

Did you do anything recently to suspension or brakes?

I’d suspect the front sensors before the rear. It’s easy enough to pull, I think one 10mm bolt front and rear. Carefully pull and look for shit on the sensors, look in the hole for filth on the tone ring, being cautious to reinstall firmly and squarely in the hole. I remember one person on here wiggling back and forth too much when pulling one and snapped the fucker right off. @FirstGenVol was that you on @jpink’s truck or is my memory old?

 

Yes it was me. His was rust welded in place. A faulty wheel speed sensor isn't going to cause your speedometer, odometer and cruise to stop working.The wheel speed sensor measures the tone ring and impacts the ABS system.

I can't speak to the speed control sensor though.

 

I’m pretty sure you’re not right on this. I swear things changed in ‘05-06 and part of the changes are why you can’t easily Yellowbox the VVTi trucks. Has nothing to do with VVTi, only using that reference to pinpoint years. But totally possible I’m remembering wrong. Would t be the first time. I just have it set in my head the latter years used ABS/WS sensor input to gauge speed. It may only be rear sensors. Or front sensors. My memory is limited.

 

It didn't effect Johns odometer when I broke his sensor nor did it impact it when we unplugged it.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/yellow-box-speedo-calibrator.31996/page-7#post-3450680

 

There you go. So no WSS in latter years. But ABS sensor is there, in the knuckle.

Meanwhile, what symptoms did you guys see on John’s truck after that debacle?

 

No that's not what I was saying. There is still a wheel speed sensor in the knuckle just like my truck. Empty is saying that the speed signal is generated at the ABS pump. I think people sometimes interchange the name wheel speed sensor and ABS sensor. I don't think either one is actually controlling the speedometer on the 05-06's. If it was John would be fucked.

If you read through that thread, they talk about the ABS computer being responsible for speedometer output.

Nothing. We disconnected the sensor along the frame rail and now he lives with the ABS light like me.

 

I admit: didn’t read thru it. (Obviously, I guess )

I’m only able to skim atm. I just assumed I wasn’t remembering right and the ABS/WSS weren’t integrated based on the tone. Even though that flies in the face of what I understood originally about it.

 

Interesting

 

So if your speedo stops working it’s the abs pump? I’ve had a abs light on for little over a year now but recently got a check engine light and code read is saying speed sensor. This whole abs thing is confusing me.

 

I just recently started getting the DTC p0500 code as well. Simultaneously, I also get an ABS light and no speedometer reading. It is intermittent and all of this occurs at the same moment. I plan to try to fix this over the weekend when doing a tire rotation.

 

My abs light has been on for about a year and only about two weeks ago my Speedo stoped working.

 

In 2005-2006, no. It could be one (or both?) ABS sensor. 2005-2006 use the rear ABS sensors for speedo.

Pull your rear sensors. Make sure there's not shit built up, and the O-ring is intact, tip of sensor is clean, tone ring isn't jammed. Make sure connection is good, wiring OK, sensor clipped in, no corrosion in the connector.

 

Anyone else with this issue having weird readings with fuel gauge? Idk if it goes hand in hand.

 

Say more about "weird readings".

Fuel guage is (IIRC) a one-wire resistance circuit from the armature/slide/float on the fuel pump assembly to the dash/gauge cluster. The fuel pump gauge itself can (and does) sometimes get dead spots in it, where the contact pad it slides against gets a small spot of corrosion and won't read properly in some instances.

The one thing they have in common is being on the same gauge cluster circuitry (which is notably different technology for the 2005-2006), i.e. share the same plug in the back and same circuit board, so it may be worth if it you've had the cluster out, to verify that connection.

They may also share a pass-thru connector, so you may have corrosion in that specific connector. This was taken from a cursory glance, I see F10 (fuel pump/sender) is sharing the same loom with A19 (ABS speed rear). If they're both inside the same junction/connector, which is somewhere around the driver's seat, it may be you have a problem there. Like, if you recently unplugged anything under the driver's seat or under the sill cover on the driver's side.

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Ok, I looked, and it looks like they're both using the the frame cowl & wire that passes under the driver's seat, but one is on BB3 10-pin connector and the other is on BB4 an 8-pin connector (BB3/4/5 are in the frame wire & cowl wire). It looks like both BB3 and 4 pass through J26(A) and J27(B) connectors, and there's also IA8 which is a grey 22-pin behind the driver kick panel, which could potentially take on water from the A-pillar if it's leaking.

Anyway, I think this is way more into @BubbaW 's wheelhouse than mine, trying to dig thru '05 DC wiring (or any wiring for that matter). The one thing I'd say is they're definitely both appearing to be in the same harness, so depending on the symptoms of the fuel gauge, it could be you have a harness that's being rubbed thru, at the bed, where it passes thru the cab, or ?? We've seen members with rub-thru on harnesses like that before. But ... tell us the fuel gauge symptoms, so we know if it's the usual corrosoion-based sudden-drop-out, or something else.

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Okay so thanks for that information holy smokes I couldn’t have done that if I wanted to lol.

First off the fuel pump is brand new oem about two years old. Weird readings include not reading correctly, dropping to empty randomly or not bouncing back when I fill up.

Crazy you say all that about the wiring under the driver seat because shortly after getting the truck I replaced the carpet and installed sound deadening.

also to add I do have an A-pillar leak. Weird thing is it hasn’t rained here for awhile and the abs light came on about a year ago and only now did the speedo go out and the fuel gauge start acting funny.

I guess my next step is to check out all those connections and possibly take the A-pillar apart.

 

I mean... corrosion happens with both time and frequency. Something always being wet will rot pretty quick. Something being intermittently wet will slowly rot.

If you want to pop off the driver kick panel now and check it out, this is the type of stuff you'll be looking for. Note the connectors here. Top connector, see how there's all that greenish colored shit at the cracks and seams of the connector? Sure-fire sign of water getting into it a few times, and copper oxide comming off. Lower connector here (for throttle control, another common problem that causes issues) it's clearly much worse, you can see the corrosion both at the seams of the connector, and coming out of the tail end.

I'll leave you this pic also, don't hesitate to unplug a connector to inspect (ideally detach the negative battery cable beforehand). DO NOT unplug any yellow connector, or orange connector, with the battery attached!!

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I’m not 100% sure I’m looking at the correct spot but everything seems to look fine.

 

this grey connector has a little bit on the inside and my fuse box has white stuff all over it.

 

Yup, water's been getting in there. I'd need to look up what that connector is. I think this may be throttle control?

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circled connector is the one that has some corrosion