Timing belt master thread/sticky?

That's nuts!

 

So progress has been made but now I’m in the pool. It’s too damn hot. Got the crank bolt and pulley off timing belt and replaced timing tensioner pulley and idler. Now I’m on the “make a mess when you pull the water pump off” stage. I pried at it a little but didn’t seem to want to move. How many fasteners hold it on? I think had 5 bolts and one nut. Also, my Aisin kit didn’t come with new water pump bolts. I heard on one video you’re never supposed to reuse those?

 

Remove 2 stud bolts and should be good to go.



***05-06 Factory Service Manual from the below post would come in handy when doing jobs such as timing belt.***

Valve cover bolt torque | Toyota Tundra Forum

 

So while I’ve got everything torn apart I’m planning on replacing most of the stuff that “spins” because I was hearing something “grinding” about every 10th time I started the truck. Sounded like a bearing and I thought it was the water pump but who knows. Among the stuff I got is a new serpentine tensioner. Looking at it now I’m thinking I got the wrong one. The pulley on the new one is 3.5” and the original is 4”. I assume I could just swap out the pulley but should I just return new one? The old one seems like it’s much better quality. Thoughts on this piece in particular failing?

 

You did not get the wrong one. There is a TSB out for the original part which had squealing problems, Toyota changed the design of the replacement part. Note the mounting bolt for the smaller pulley part is shifted over, so the pulley has the same effective engagement point with the belt - notice the edge of the pulley at the right-hand side of the part where the belt touches it, is in the same effective spot in relation to the four mounting bolt holes.

This is covered a number of times here on the forum. The factory pulley that's been replaced is 4", and the new one is like 3" or 3½". It's totally normal.

Edit with pic, in case that's not clear. The effective distance from these two mounting holes, and the belt-contact point, is the same on both parts.

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Well I'll be dipped. I didn't have belt squealing problems but I guess I'll swap it out since I've got it. This is that one that's reverse threaded if I remember correctly. The after market bolt looks like cheap zinc - any chance it would make sense to swap the bolt with the OEM?
Should have joined this site years ago! Thanks!

 

** Edit - never mind I just had to quit being a wuss. I got it. Water pump is on and new timing belt in place. Tensioner time.

Any pointers on getting the timing belt actually put on? I've got the crank mark lined up, drivers side cam mark lined up (belt is as snug as I can get it on drivers side) but now I can either route it under the water pump pulley OR around the passenger side cam. Don't seem to have enough slack to get it around everything. It's close but I don't want to pry anything. It's what I imagine it would be like if the timing belt tensioner was installed (but it isn't yet).

 

Quick note.

Next to the driver's side cam is your cam position sensor. Make sure its wires are NOT pinched under the water pump.

At the 4 o'clock position from the crank pulley/harmonic balancer is the crankshaft position sensor. Make sure its harness is secured BEHIND the fan pulley bracket, not floating outside of it.

These, and forgetting where one of the A/C bracket bolts goes seem to be the big f-ups some people make.

 

Thanks! Those cam position wires will damn sure try to sneak behind the water pump. I used a putty knife to keep them clear when I slid the water pump on. Here’s what they look like:

for the crankshaft sensor is this the correct routing? I’ll tuck it back a bit more.

 

From the megathread:

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*edit - so I took a better pic of the stud and the threads looked better than I originally thought. Took a closer look at the nut and it was very shiny inside so I grabbed one of the not rounded off fan nuts that I wasn’t going to reuse and I’m pretty sure it’s the same nut. Got it MUCH more snug but feels like if I go any more it will strip. If I had to guess it feels like it’s in the “30” pound range when I compare it to the top bolt of the bracket that I got to 36. Hope that’s good enough…


Ok - how screwed am I? No clue how this happened on the easiest damn nut/bolt on the job! Especially when I started it by hand gently 2 or 3 times to make sure it wasn’t cross threaded. Maybe it was boogered up from the last time the belt was done? Anyway it’s the bottom nut for the bracket on the underside of the AC compressor. I got the 14mm torqued to 36ftlbs under the bracket and the top bolt of the bracket to 36 as well. Haven’t torqued the other bolts yet but assuming I get them all to 36 is that bottom nut THAT important? I can still get it to go on and pull it back off but it won’t thread down far enough to get snug or torqued. I tried putting washers on but no luck there either. Loctite?

 

Well - I'm done. Took all day to get everything back together but it fired right up and ran like a sewing machine. I let it run for about 20 minutes while I cleaned up and so far no leaks (hallelujah). I'll top off the coolant and transmission fluid tomorrow if needed and go ahead and do an oil change while the skid plate is off and give her a good wash. The best part of the job hands down is filling out the new sticker!
Thanks all for your help!