Better front rotors and pads?

Geez, 28K, I've had the front rotors turned once and the vibration is back. No, it's not the way I drive. Avoiding a big brake kit, are there any non-OEM rotor pad combos that have proven to be more durable?

I did a search. Seems to be a common problem but I can't find any feed back on set ups that work better.
Thanks

 

DBA's or Stoptech's likely will be my go-to's shortly based on my 200 & 100 series LC builds.... waiting to get the suspension in and then do it along with the longer brake lines...

Powerstops can be good, but I found they warped in a few situations...

E

 

tell the lube monkey to stop using the impact gun to tighten your lug nuts when rotating your tires

 

I have a real problem with brakes. I just switched to frozen rotors and hawk pads. I understand you have a 3rd gen and I have a 2nd, but I'd bet they make something that would fit. They seem to be better than the OEM set up, but i just got them on Tuesday. I went through my OEM's in 25k miles and some shitty monroe muffler ones in 10k. Hoping these last a bit longer.

https://frozenrotors.com/all-products.html?find=2023-toyota-tundra-all-models-276042&sid=5krtOvLUB7 Looks like they don't have any kits put together like they did for 2nd gen, they also use a different pad company. I emailed these guys before buying and they were super responsive and sent me a 10% off code. I have no affiliation.

 

I’ve had really good experience with Stoptech slotted rotors and the oem brake pads.

 

My stock brakes are still doing well at 31k miles, even the rears still have good thickness, but I am thinking ahead. There will be as many opinions on brakes as there are on tires, but I have become a big EBC brake pad fan, having run them on motorcycles and my Corvette. Dead quiet, great performance. They have several grades but I specifically use the red stuff carbon ceramic formulation for street use. As for rotors, IDK. I may go with the Advics stockers again, or one of the many aftermarket offerings, EBC, DBA, etc, etc...

I have also used Powerstops and they were OK. Had a set of the rotors and pads on my Tacoma and they were fine. But the set of PS pads I put on my Corvette discolored the rotors and squealed in reverse when cold, which is what many here say their Tundras do. I replaced those with the EBC reds years ago and all issues solved.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ebc-ed92460/make/toyota/model/tundra/year/2023

 

Better deat at Amazon:

$150 EBC Brakes - EBC Extra Duty Pads (ED92460)

https://www.amazon.com/EBC-Brakes-E...513&sprefix=ebc+brakes+ed92460,aps,138&sr=8-1

 

I went with dynamic friction extreme pads and Wagner rotors. Creates a lot of brake dust but has much better grab and stopping. Swapped mine around 70k miles. They had lots of pad left just pulsing during heavy braking from the rotors being toast.

 

I have just about 29K with none of the problems mentioned above, front pads are at 7MM and rears are 6.5MM.
I should be good with OEM's for at least another year or so.
On the topic of this,has anyone tried Wildwood,the complete set up of calipers,slotted rotors and pads?
I have zero rush to pull the trigger on these,and their reputation has been pretty damn good throughout the years but haven't read about anyone here who has installed, thoughts or insights.

 

Sounds almost exactly what I have at 30,400 miles. We must have got the good batch of rotors and pads. Should easily go another 15k miles.

 

Yeah,for sure I'd say we got a "normal" batch,but I don't understand how rotors are failing prematurely like this.

 

Me neither. The dealer acts like it’s business as usual. I’m just trying to find something that doesn’t warp.

 

It's disappointing that this is how things roll today, IDK, maybe it's just me thinking this way but where has the pride in craftsmanship gone to?

Ya know something eles, I can appreciate brand new brakes "for free" but time is money too,you have to drop the truck off and trust that they don't screw with it,like scratch the shit out of it by accident or grease the crap out of the interior it with there paws...

 

I'd like to see some actual runout numbers and I wonder if some or most of these are not actually warped but have irregular brake pad deposits on the rotor surfaces. All that takes is a fairly hard stop then sitting at a red light with the brakes on to transfer material. I have had that happen to me once and seen it many more times. Just something I try to avoid by stopping gradually and if that isn't possible I "creep" a little at the light to keep from pressing hot pads in one place for too long. And maybe there are some bad batches of pads that make this worse? IDK.

 

In my case, at 14K I had the runout checked and it was out of spec. No deposits on the rotors and no ridge at the edge showing excessive wear before they were resurfaced. $250 and I was back in business with the same pads and a double check on the lug nut torque. What's whacked about my situation is that my truck spends probably 75% of the miles on the highway. I can't imagine an easier use case.

 

The number of miles you get out of a set of brake pads and rotors is very much dependent on how you drive. My experience with my Tundra is that when the pads are worn out the rotors are also done, so I replace them at the same time. FWIW, I have had good service out of OEM rotors and I prefer Hawk carbon pads. Tightening the lugs properly seems to help prevent rotors from warping. I tighten them in a sequence of three passes, starting about 40 lbft, then 60 and finally 80.

 

I hear what you are saying Ray,but with today's "technological break throughs" do we really have to Nanny our trucks?!!!
On a half ton truck brandy new life expectancy should be between 25~65K.
So after all of the vehicle's you've owned and this newer vehicle needs to be catered and pampered too?I aint buying it,there's no way.


it's either an extremely large shit batch or just sub par materials.,who knows maybe it's 100% Chineseium

 

I had frozen rotors on my tacoma and loved them. I'll go with them again when I need new rotors.......and I'll need a 10% off code too

 

Oh, I agree. But it could just be bad pads. Or bad rotors, or both.

 

I hear the "deposit" theory thrown around a lot, but that's definitely not the case with my brakes.

If any of you do a lot of mountain driving on steep and winding passes, you know that moderate to heavy braking is necessary. Speed limits often go from 55 mph down to 15 mph around hairpin curves. No amount of downshifting will prevent you from using the brakes.

It's those driving conditions where the brakes on my '23 Tundra fall woefully short. They go from buttery smooth to shuddering badly at the bottom of some of the passes I drive regularly. Then the shuddering goes away when the brakes cool down. I'm pretty sure that's simply shitty rotors, not deposits.

 

Not just a theory. You can easily see it when rotors get contaminated. So, you are saying that they shudder, then they go back to stopping smooth again? I have never seen or heard that before. Once rotors are warped, they are warped. I have experienced bad fade from oveheated brakes, though not on the Tundra.

 

Yes, that's exactly what happens. The brakes go from smooth, to shuddering when hot, to smooth again when cooled down, all in one continuous trip.

I'm at 28K miles on the factory brakes. I haven't checked the pad wear yet, but I suspect they are getting thin. I've never gotten less than 50K on brakes before, but I'm certain I won't get that out these crappy brakes. Pretty disappointing.

 

Damn, if my brakes were doing that I'd replace them immediately. I usually get ~75k on my front brakes. Not sure these will make that, but I expect at least 50k. And when I do them there is no way I would do a pad slap and keep the original rotors.

 

Where does one get rotors resurfaced these days? Did they measure them after to see how close they were to minimum thickness?

 

Like tires, brakes are so subjective but you always hear that OEM is best to go with. So I'll leave this here........

OEM Front and Rear Brake Pads and Rotors: BAM Wholesale currently cheaper than the Toyota Parts listing (for my area)



There's also the Akebono Brake Pads from CarParts.com which I also believe are OEM for Tundras


Unfortunately, the OEM Brake Rotors are not listed on CarParts.com

 

My '24 brakes do exactly this going over the Cascades pass. Mine feel like its the rears as I feel it through my seat and not my steering wheel. 2/3rds the way down they start to shudder. Once off the mountain the shudder goes away.

I did a lot of trips over the pass last year for elk/deer hunting and it pretty much did it every single time. Not pulling anything and not a ton of weight in the cab and bed.

 

O'Reilly $25 each last i checked. And yes they check

 

Sorry to hear this, but I guess misery loves company.

When mine shudder, I feel it in the entire truck, including the steering wheel.

 

mine were doing exactly as you described earlier in this thread, and about a month later they started rubbing and metal on metal sounds. It might be an early warning that you need to be brake shopping.

 

My oems started to shutter just like Matt’s. I actually had the exact same thing where shutter when slowing down fast and then be normal again after cooling. It shuttered so bad that I decided I’d just buy aftermarket even though the tsb exists and I could’ve gotten rotors and pads for free. I replaced all brake pads with power stop z36s, or whatever their tow pads are. Front rotors I did PS drilled and slotted, rear I did Napa premium rotors. That was all done around 20k miles ago and I haven’t had a problem since, other than occasionally smelling the pads if I’m having too much fun driving down a mountain pass (montezuma pass near borrego springs). Minimal brake fade on these and definitely bites better than my oem brakes. If I were to do it again, I’d probably do ebc pads and aftermarket rotors bc I love my ebcs on my ktm 500 lol.