Camber caster bolts seized

When I got my 2013 Tundra aligned, they got it to align close enough, that they said I will probably not have any tire wear issues.

They said the camber caster bolts are seized and would need to be replaced in order to adjust the camber correctly.

Any insight into this? Is this just cutting bolts out and replacing them? $10 bolts or something like that?

Or is it more involved than what I'm thinking?

Thanks!

 

Normal problem for rust belt. Bolts and bushings too.

 

When you say bushings, do you mean in the control arm? Is that expensive?

Thanks!

 

yeah, control arm bushings. I would probably pick up new arms with new bushings and ball joints if I was planning to keep the truck. Price depends on source of course.

 

OEM can be spendy for both the eccentric bolt and sleeve, and the lower control arm with bushings. But aftermarket are trash for both. The aftermarket eccentrics tend to use plastic sleeves, or are low quality. The aftermarket LCAs are cheaper stamped steel that is easily bent and contains cheap low quality rubber bushings that fail quickly.

 

Thanks!

So I'm looking at this site:
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/pag...le_arm_steering_knuckle&diagram=&partNumbers=

And I see the Toyota 48190-34010 Cam Assy, Camber Adjust $27.81
And maybe this is the sleeve: Cam Sub-Assy, Front Suspension Toe Adjust $20.74
Lower control arm: Arm Sub-Assy, Front Suspension, Lower NO.1 RH $273.42
Ball joint: Attachment, Front Lower Ball Joint, RH $116.35

Just trying to get an idea of what this is going to cost me if I get my shop to do it. They will probably want to order the parts themselves and I will request Toyota based upon what you just said.

So their prices may be higher.

But what I think I'm hearing is to get this stuff done:
Camber bolt and sleeve
Lower control arm
Ball joint

So maybe about $500 a side for parts or about $1000 in parts plus labor.

And that will keep me going for a while up there in the front.

Correct?

Thanks!

 

Maybe, depending on the condition of the uppers, wheel bearings, tires, shocks, cv joints, brake parts, etc. There's quite a bit going on up there and the only person who will know is the one who gets the pleasure of getting their hands dirty. Some Fluid Film or Woolwax applicarions could have helped prevent the corrosion in the first place, so maybe treat it after the new parts or at least in the winter.

 

You may or may not need new lower control arms and bushings.

 

/\ true, much depends on how the bolts are cut out and the current condition of the bushings. Be sure the weight of the truck is on the ground before tightening to avoid damage to the bushings.

 

Just replace the cam bolts and the entire lower control arms. They will need to get cut out with a torch or a cut off wheel.

 

Sawzall by some, just depends on the individual.

 

I wasnt successful with $50 worth of diablo blades on mine. I ended up cutting the LCA out in pieces with a 7" cut off wheel.

 

OK thanks for the opinions!

 

If I want to replace the ball joint, just because I'll have it apart, is this all I need?



Because that comes with the OEM LCA.

Or do I also need this?



Thanks!

 

Only the LCA

 

Thank you!

 

I'm sure you can find some YT videos about DIY if you wish to check them out and see if this is within your abilities and resources.

 

So I think this is my parts list. Is there anything else that would be worth considering since it is apart?

Toyota 48068-09100 Front Suspension Control Arm Sub-Assembly Lower Right

Toyota 48069-09090 Front Suspension Control Arm Sub-Assembly Lower Left

Toyota Tundra/Sequoia/200 Series 07-21 HD Alignment Stop Cam Kit

Toyota 45047-09260 Tie Rod End Sub-Assembly, Left

Toyota 45046-09560 Tie Rod End Sub-Assembly, Right

(2) Toyota 90171-16009 Nut, Castle

 

Uppers in good shape?

 

OR, I could not order the LCAs and get poly bushings:

Custom link for my VIN

Front diagram

POLYURETHANE BUSHING FRONT SUSPENSION, LOW ARM, FRONT

POLYURETHANE BUSHING FRONT SUSPENSION, LOW ARM, REAR


And if I do just the bushings, I would need the ball joint:

Moog Ball Joint

Is there a better brand of ball joint? It appears that there is no OEM ball joint available by itself.


Total for poly bushings and ball joints is $271 both sides vs OEM LCAs $547 both sides.

I have the tools to do the bushings and the experience on my CRV.

 

Don't know, I'm going to pull off the wheel today and make a short video. But the shop only mentioned the lowers being a problem and I figured that the lowers go first and the uppers would be OK at 120k miles normally, is that a reasonable assumption?

Thanks!

 

Just depends

 

Here is what it looks like:

https://youtube.com/shorts/toM3P4sUCjQ?si=JalYy7Sh5rt5pzNv

 

This video sheds some light on what actually freezes. He says it's not the cam bolt that freezes, but it is the sleeve that freezes inside of the bushing. So this helps me understand how everyone is talking about replacing the LCAs when the cam bolt is frozen. I have not heard anyone say they got their cam bolt out and replaced just the cam bolt to fix the issue.
This guy is saying they are replacing the LCAs with aftermarket to "solve this problem once and for all". And their are Dirt King LCAs on the table in front of him.
Maybe this is marketing for Dirt King, but he doesn't mention the name and he doesn't have a link in the description to sell them.

Has anyone been running the Dirt King LCAs for a long time and have they frozen up?

https://youtu.be/llnxWBPqBiA?si=TvST2VCSpX_8TVb9

 

This video is a few seconds of the guy showing the sleeves and how they seize into the bushing

https://youtu.be/9GGngSVpKmM?si=vR1xNAHC3wE7zwRb&t=317

 

I'm going to try to "unstick" my cam bolts. Who knows, maybe they are not that stuck. I'm sure the shop didn't take time to work on them. I had the wheels off twice and did PB Blaster on all the areas. Last time I tried one bolt and it moved a little, and it was late so I just re-torqued it and figured I'd come back to it.
I found this video and thought that guy made a good DIY press for $10 from the hardware store. I think that could get the cam sleeve out of the bush maybe if it's not too stuck, with several applications of PB Blaster, some love taps over time.

https://youtu.be/vRyRvcZch6U?si=lLjJwMCHSjZl7-Ek