Frame Repair Coming Up

I've posted this before, but I think this is the best video on how to effectively spray FF/WW....if you don't have the shop do it

https://youtu.be/TRsD-fgt6h0?si=EoCZJyx3yElC0Xnm

 

I'm now considering procuring a used frame in good condition. My reasoning is that if I'm going to go through the trouble of doing the work, might as well do it in a way that will make the truck last longer.

I've also connected with an old friend who now owns a body shop and will help me with the logistics and charge me as little as possibly. Under this scenario, the projected expenses change greatly.

 

I’ve seen many clean frames here for sale on facebook and craigslist here in Oregon. Clean frames an be found in washington, oregon, cali, arizona, nevada. You’d have to figure out shipping or a road trip. I’ve once bought a wrangler YJ frame and transported it back 200 miles back home. It took 5 strong guys to lift it up and set it on top of my little scion xB’s roof rack. Once lashed down it was super stable.

 

That’s the short jeep? Not the 4 door ? I’m Not jeep hip, but what an adventure in moving anyway. A scion? Crazy

 

While I plan to take my truck for the frame repairs in late August, I also want to fix whatever else may fail or may be too old and will need to be replaced soon. How do I determine which components to replace? What are the typical things people replace once they do the frame overhaul I'm planning to do? I wish I had a Tundra specialist near me who can help me identify all those parts so I could order them and bring them to the shop that is going to work on my frame.

 

Which suspension parts would you replace?

 

Those that need it.

 

I was hoping for the names of the 3 or 4 items that typically need to be replaced so I could have my mechanic check them and replace them if necessary.

 

I believe there's a list of common fails and what to look for around here somewhere. The one I hear about most is replacing lower ball joints as a preventative. That said, a quality mechanic (not necessarily a Tundra specialist) should be able to inspect your truck well enough without a cheat-sheet.

A lot depends on how the truck was used, maintained, and how you plan to use it. Mine has been a daily driver for homeowner use... bags of mulch.. whatever. It doesn't tow or pull heavy loads nor it is regularly climbing and crawling in the woods. It simply doesn't get the hard use that some do. Much of what I read of folks replacing two or more times I have never done. Wear and preventative replacement of parts can be vastly different.

Good luck

 

Truck was bought and used by the original owner for long commutes to and from work for 255K miles in Connecticut. Occasionally, it towed a small boat during summers. In 2023 I bought it from him and sorted out the typical deferred maintenance (SaiS, O2, exhaust, timing belt, etc.) I sold it in 2024 to a friend who thought he needed a truck. The truck was parked most of the time and I was able to buy it back from him. I'm now doing the frame as a means of preparing it to last 5 or 10 more years, possibly more.

My use: I drive 3 miles to work each way once a week. I take the bikes to the trail 2 or 3 times per week. Home Depot once a week during Spring. Maybe one long drive per year for a little vacation, typically in FL.

We own other vehicles and the Tundra is NOT the primary.

In summary, I'd say this truck has been used lightly by prev owner and by me and except for NOT rust proofing the frame, has had all the maintenance done on time and responsibly.

 

First pic looks the worst, the rest look fine.
https://www.rustbuster.com/collections/2000-2006-toyota-tundra

 

Probably the unpopular opinion here, but that frame is not terrible. Based on the pictures, I can't imagine anything breaking unless you are doing some serious off-camber driving or hauling an insane amount of weight. I'd leave it alone, at least for now. You are going to open up a can of worms if you start removing parts for the frame repair/replacement.

 

Sounds like similar light uses.

I often read about guys acquiring a used truck who just can't wait to start replacing things. I'd pay a qualified mechanic to go over it well but wouldn't be in a hurry to fix what ain't broke.

 

Thanks Badwrench. I have to admit that at this moment today, I haven't decided if I'm cutting and patching it, or if I'm replacing it. I'm going to wait until the shop sees it and let them give me options. They may very well tell me that cutting and patching is sufficient.

 

This is my new favorite YouTube frame repair guy...check out his channel and there are dozens of similar videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uydV3DciZbM&ab_channel=VXM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pYvA6Q4v0A&ab_channel=VXM

Search around, there are many, many more channels!

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/5naUNv2Ope0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qt9021YKQz8&ab_channel=torque405

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wo9BL0zNyXM&ab_channel=VXM

 

I'm addicted to those frame repair videos. Have seen dozens.

 

G_Unit, I decided for the place you suggested in Saddle Brook based on the hundreds of reviews and scope of work in their videos. I'm going there tonight. Looking forward to it.

 

Let me know how it goes. I'm interested in the quote you get

 

That place in Saddle Brook does great work but it is NOT cheap. I drove 1.5 hours last night and the owner -- Chris -- stayed open after 6PM to meet me. He was amazing and super accommodating. He checked the truck himself and had one of his guys go under it (lifts were occupied). He explained his process and showed me the tools he uses. I was also able to see the 3 cars they were working on and I had never seen so many FJ cruisers together. He owns a Tundra, a Tacoma, a 4Runner and an FJ as part of his very impressive collection of cars.

There are three parts to what my truck needs: repair, cleanup and rustproof. Let me explain. There are two holes in my frame about the size of a dollar coin. The will cut out (10" by 4") all around those holes and replace it with steel which they then grind to make it look perfect. If there are other mounts or parts that need repair, they will fabricate them as well. I liked it that the welder only does welding and the other guys do the other work. Once the rusted parts are cut out and the holes are patched, they do a clean up of all the surface rust. On my Connecticut truck, this is significant and requires delicate work around the engine area. I inquired if he removes the bed and he told me my truck did not need it as the top of the frame was fine. Once buckets of rust are removed, they do the rust proofing with the woolwax. For the welding work, he is charging $1600. The cleanup is $1400 and the woolwax is $400. All in all $3400. This is a lot more of what I thought but I will gladly pay it as it will extend the life and integrity of my 2006 DC. There is one more place in Staten Island that does this. That place uses Safe-T-Caps. I asked the Saddle Brook guy and he told me to stay away from those as some places mount those without cutting out all the rusted part. I prefer his method as it looks more natural and one can barely tell that the frame has been patched. He's booked solid for two months. I'll post pictures and an update after the work is done.

For reviews and pictures of his work, check out this link to Google Reviews:

https://www.google.com/search?sca_e...FHSRSEmMQ0bkNegQIJBAE&biw=1350&bih=633&dpr=1#

 

I would sand blast it, do a galvanized dip and then powder coat it black, but that’s me.

 

Headers!

(you never know when you’ll get a dreaded exhaust leak)

Maybe a steering rack if yours is leaking badly too.

One other item would be a new OEM fuel pump since those have a finite lifetime. Plus it’s a good time to replace those rear shocks with easy access.

 

Thanks Jack. I will have the OEM fuel pump replaced.

I had the steering rack and rear shocks checked and both were fine.

 

New tank gaskets to go along with it but I think that’s obvious when you take off the old one.

 

This is good info. Fortunately I don't think my Tundra needs any frame work but I've got a 2009 GX470 with 2 dollar coin sized frame holes under the AC condenser drain on the passenger side. I did the drain extension mod 4 years ago soon after buying the vehicle and reading up on common problems. I also sprayed Fluid Film before my first winter with the vehicle but there has been some worsening of the rust which expanded **inside** the metal itself. Obviously, this is why aggressively cutting out all of the bad metal is key. I imagine I'd need a similar amount of repair as you are getting. Just as a FYI, if you are going to spend $400 on undercoating you could easily get outfitted with the sprayer with extensions and Fluid Film for $100-150 and then be set for upcoming winters. $1400 clean up sounds like this is to make it look nice underneath and maybe isn't necessary? Wire wheel, needle scaler, and then spray with black FF/WW would probably be all you need.

When my brother in law went there last year, he also mentioned they were $$$$$ and said there were a bunch of FJ Cruisers lined up to get worked on. Because of the expense, he went with the Midland Park welder but I like the fact that these Saddlebrook guys do Toyota frames all day everyday.

 

Hey G_Unit,

Thanks for the FYi about buying my own equipment and doing it for $150. I don't have a lift or access to one. Presently and in the foreseeable future, I don't have a lot of spare time. Lastly, when it comes to DiY, I always ask myself if I know enough to do half a decent job. I don't know enough about this so let's outsource it.

I also think that -- along with all those reasons -- it is good to pay someone who is an specialist to do a job well done.

Your 2009 GX470 is a beautiful vehicle that can last you a lifetime if cared for. I was looking for one myself for wife but went with the Highlander at her request. Consider taking it there and have the guy give you an estimate. You can always negotiate or pay cash to save a bit.

 

Not the worst we've seen
But certainly not the best