Is there anything safe you can add to your oil to increase viscosity?

My dealership gave me free lifetime oil changes, and free lifetime warranty. I did my own first oil change at 1000 miles and put 5w-30 in it.

I live where it's really hot and just don't trust that thin oil when it's over 100F outside.

My thought was maybe I could just put some lucas or something in after they change it each time.

I want to let them do the free services so I have a good service documentation if I would ever need to make a claim on that "lifetime warranty"

 

personally i'd stick with the dealership supplied oil changes that correspond with your vehicles warranty as opposed to dumping an additive that will almost certainly void your warranty should a situation ever arrive.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/anyone-using-a-higher-viscosity-oil-in-their-tundra.155814/


/thread.

 

The chase ways in these blocks are very small, and the need for low visocity is there to make sure the flows are adequate. You can buy viscoity modifiers, but you would need test equipment to see how much is needed to increase a set viscosity. They did a lot of research at Toyota to figure out the optimum viscosity for these engines.

 

Thicker oil isn’t going to save it from destruction. You could try this stuff. https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/us/mo...7a-aRZZe_192TcoTvhfKXBr1D60aAoWtEALw_wcB#2020

 

FIFY

 

^^^^ THIS ^^^^
While you are correct OP the thicker oil is a bit better in hotter climates, in my experience it was/is intended for cars running at extremes, or towing for extended strain on the motors, and those cars/trucks designed with larger chase ways for the thicker oil when cold.

The disadvantage of the thicker oil is it can take a bit longer to come up to optimal temp, so start-up could cause more wear.
I've always used the recommended viscosity the manufacture recommends, but have used different brands from time to time.

I don't think you will gain much wear protection switching, and it could come back to bite you if a warranty claim came up. Unlikely for sure, but why chance it when the motor was designed for a specific viscosity. Just my two cents.

You did not mention where you live that it is 100F? Is it much colder in the mornings and winter?

 

This sounds like a bunch of horse hockey

 

Just south of Daytona Beach. We wear shorts in January, occasionally we see a cold day or two a year but freezing temps are super rare.

 

Part of the issue is the heat thins the oil so much, it loses its hydrodynamic wedge properties between the bearing and race/crank.

I ended up sticking with a 0w, but ran the maximum temperature up to 40*C rather than the 20*C.

Pennzoil Ultra platinum (SRT spec oil) 0w-40 fits the bill nicely. Keeps the low temp viscosity and flow, but also provides a significant temperature range increase where it holds its viscosity for a wider temperature range.

 

Does anmbient air temp play that that much of a contribution to overall engine heat? Once the engine crosses 200f does it matter? Genuine question as I don’t know the answer?

 

Intake air temps go up, which in turn cause charge air to go up, which in turn causes intercooler exit water temps to go up, which puts more BTU shedding onto the heat exchangers. Higher oil temps and coolant temps due to less efficient shedding through the radiator and oil cooler.

Its been my experience, yes.

 

Its really ambient oil temperature, which is affected by ambient air. If we could warm up the oil before starting up our engines this would not matter as much. Thats actually in the start up procedure for a lot of power plant generators; slowly turn the shaft until the oil temperature is up to spec, then let er rip

 

So for OP who lives in FL, his oil in theory would start off warmer then say someone in MN in the winter which is a good thing.
I'm sticking with manufacturer recommended viscosity as it's worked well for me, since I don't breakdown my motors after 10K miles or even test the oil between changes.