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Need advice with catch-up service (timing belt, water pump, radiator, LBJ)

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by sirrus, Jul 16, 2025 at 9:19 PM.

  1. Jul 16, 2025 at 9:19 PM
    #1
    sirrus

    sirrus [OP] New Member

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    Mik
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    2003 AC SR5 V8 4WD
    Hi everyone! Since last week I am a proud owner of 2003 AC truck with 211k miles - one owner, no rust, very clean inside and outside. I have limited info on previous service history and after reading a lot here, I am planning to do some catch up service to the truck.

    Spent quite a few hours with EPC part diagrams and reading different threads here, put together a list of what needs to be done, what parts I plan to use and some questions as well. I would greatly appreciate if someone can look over this and point if I'm missing something, got something wrong or wasting time/money somewhere!

    So here it goes:

    Timing belt and water pump was replaced by seller couple months ago, but I know they used non-OEM kit (I think Dayco), thermostat housing has a leak at the O ring and I don't want to gamble with that
    Last 3 things (tensioner, fan bracket and clutch) - I saw some people replace them while doing TB/WP, does it make sense as a preventative maintenance?

    Radiator - no idea if it was ever changed and I don't see any date codes on it, so going to replace it to avoid milkshake. I found OEM p/n 16410-AZ018 and DENSO 2210517 - which one is preferred? Denso is 30 bucks cheaper and I read that Denso is pretty much OEM

    Along with radiator I want to replace upper (16571-0F020) and lower radiator hoses (16572-0F010) - someone replaced original clamps with worm type and those seem to really dig into the rubber. Will also get correct clamps (90466-41003 seems to be for both ends of both hoses), new cap (16401-20353, is that one correct?) and some of the small bypass water hoses that have the same deal with from clamps.

    PCV hose is very hard and slides off nipple on both sides even with the clamps on - so looking at new hose (12261-50050) and 2 clamps (90467-1502). Should I replace the PCV valve itself (12204-50030) while I'm at it?

    Lower ball joints - I know they were replaced during recall campaign (in 2005, 180k miles ago) , no idea if anyone touched them since, so I'm assuming I am on borrowed time here. Here is what I got parts wise:
    • LBJ assy RH (43330-39605)
    • LBJ assy LH (43340-39485)
    • Dust protectors (43346-60011) - current LBJs have them, do I need to buy new ones or I can move them to new LBJs?
    • Bolts (90119-10933) - number from EPC, seems to be the black type with washer, should be the right ones for use with dust shields?
    Starter - was replaced with Duralast unit by seller. I read that anything non OEM is questionable, however it works OK, maybe I just have to crank it 1 extra second (compared to other FGTs that I seen). Is it worth replacing with reman OEM (28100-50100)? This one is more for the future, just curious

    Other things like oil (synthetic 5w30), filter (OEM 90915-YZZD3), gear oil, brake fluid and such seem pretty straightforward. Haven't looked into spark plugs yet
     
  2. Jul 16, 2025 at 9:28 PM
    #2
    sirrus

    sirrus [OP] New Member

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    Oh, I have no idea how those Amazon links appeared in my post. I was planning to get everything from either RockAuto or Serra Toyota (they have better discounts than my local dealerships)
     
    G_unit3000 and Leo's first like this.
  3. Jul 16, 2025 at 9:42 PM
    #3
    blackdemon_tt

    blackdemon_tt Battery Slayer

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    TRD Sway Bar, Roll covers USA bed cover
    FIPG Crankcase all you really need unless you go felpro or similar. 18bux
    FIPG Transaxle all you really need. 26bux in NorCal Toyota. Pretty mich all the same.

    If stuff works save your money for future upgraded and replacements parts. I think DAYCO is OEM. I got it in my water pump parts kit.
     
  4. Jul 17, 2025 at 5:50 AM
    #4
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    I don't think DAYCO is OEM for any parts on the FGT. Most common OEM suppliers for Toyota in the 2000s were:

    Aisin - Timing belt kits, waterpumps, transmissions, etc.
    Denso - Radiators, spark plugs, O2 sensors, etc.
    Koyo - bearings
    Spicer/Dana - axle bits, U-joints, carrier bearing etc.
     
    G_unit3000, MooreKen and sirrus[OP] like this.
  5. Jul 17, 2025 at 6:55 AM
    #5
    sirrus

    sirrus [OP] New Member

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    FIPG Crankcase vs Transaxle - is that black and red FIPG?

    In general I agree, if it ain't broke don't fix it. So with starter, it's more about knowing what to expect from Duralast vs reman OEM. Not going to replace it now.

    TB/WP/radiator/LBJs I see differently, especially LBJs - they look a bit oily and from what I know they might as well be 180k miles/19 years old. I read that Dayco is not OEM

    Speaking about coolant leak, here it is

    1 (1).jpg

    To me it looks like the O ring wasn't seated fully
     
    G_unit3000 likes this.
  6. Jul 17, 2025 at 7:16 AM
    #6
    Fragman

    Fragman New Member

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    I'll say that you are correct to do the PM on your new vehicle. Single owner but no service records could be a bit of a red flag as those tend to be lost when vehicles have more than one owner and pass through dealer hands. Not necessarily a huge one though.

    Changing fluids is a given. Don't forget to check the condition of the ATF. Your year should still have a dipstick.

    I probably would do the serpentine belt and tensioner as a 'while you are there' thing. The fan clutch unless it's actually bad, I personally wouldn't.
    Radiator, if it's any kind of 'brown' color, needs to be changed.
    My year of LBJ's came with the dust covers, so I can't comment there. But, if they are inexpensive, swap them. If they are stupid priced or hard to get, maybe see how good yours are, though 20 year old rubber is never going to be as good as new and you will always wish you 'just had done them when you had the chance'.
     
    G_unit3000 likes this.
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