Is there an aftermarket amp direct swap with stock amp?

I have a 21 Tundra SR5 with premium audio (9 speakers, stock amp, non-jbl). Is there an aftermarket amp I can simply swap with the stock amp under the passenger seat and be done? I don’t want to rip into the dash/ head unit. My plan is to start with the amp, then speakers later, and keep the head unit stock. I just want some improvements in the audio I’m not looking for a complete audio system overhaul. Will it even be worthwhile to upgrade the amp and speakers? Will it be a noticeable improvement or not worth the time and money?

 

In my opinion just adding an amp to replace the factory non jbl amp would be a waste of time.

Hate to break it to you,, the problem with the sound system in the tundra is the factory head unit. You can replace the amp and speakers and you will still be disappointed in the results.


Here is what I would start with
Step 1
Replacing the head unit is really not hard in the tundra and will give huge improvement in sound quality,
You may be happy with the results with just step 1

The sony 9500 or 9000 es is where I would start.



What budget are you working with? Once I know this i can point you in a couple directions.

 

The Beatsonic amp does that right?

https://www.beatsonicusa.com/produc...ect-2018-toyota-models?variant=44580022911127

 

Does the Beatsonic amp really improve the sound or is just perceived that way because the sound kicks on louder at a lower volume number?

 

Search feature is handy on here. Many have done this amp before.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/beat-sonic-in-line-amp-non-jbl-thoughts….152846/

 

Depends on your point of view. I did just that, and I would say it was absolutely worth that. With that said, there were two issues I ran into.

- sound wasn't anywhere near as clean as it could have been (more on this below) since no RCA outputs exist on the OEM head unit - you have to tap off of one of the speaker inputs
- given this fact, when my sound system was off...you still heard a decent amount of white noise (that wouldn't be there if the output from an aftermarket head unit was flat out turned off)

Granted, one can use a DSP or something to minimize it..but IMHO at that point you're in full new system purchase territory.

Last year, when my OEM HU died, I finally decided to buy an aftermarket HU, and have 3 sets of RCA lines ran from the HU to the amp. GIGANTIC difference, even over the OEM HU with an amp/speakers/subs replaced.

My wife and son are not anything close to audiophiles and even they were like "Holy crap...why did you wait 5 years to do this??" I told my wife "Because YOU told me it wasn't worth it." She then told me, and I quote,

"Well, I was wrong."

I loved hearing that.

 

The question to ask is how long do you plan on keeping the tundra and how much do you like a good sounding system?

If you do not care to have a 10 inch screen radio
Or care to have wireless carplay or android auto
You can replace the head unit at a low cost
Jvc 750bt on ebay. New $279
I have this in my son's camaro and it has been a great radio
Crux swrty 61c to have it wired up. Can get for around $80 on ebay
Metra dash kit

$34 99-8252 Multi Installation Kit for Toyota Tundra 2014 and Up,Silver

99-8252. $33 on Amazon

So around $400. This would have more impact on sound quality than just replacing the amp and speakers.
Replacing the radio also gives a good starting point for future upgrades.

If doing the work yourself you can do a complete sound system up grade for just over $1000

Ultra budget build but still sound good equipment list

Replace radio
$400
5 channel amp. $200
Sub 8 inch dayton audio HO8 $145.
Build the box yourself. $50.
Front door speakers silver flute w17r from madisound speakers store around $80 for the pair
Tweeters massive audio ct2 28mm silk dome tweeters $79
Passive crossover $50

Or just get a set of jbl stadium 62cf on ebay for $250

I would not use any rear door speakers

Run new 16 gauge speaker wire through the door boot. Easy to do. 50 foot of ofc wire. Ebay $20
Get decent rca cables from ebay $50 for a set of 3

Amp wire. Only running 1 amp a 4 guage power wire is enough size. CCA wire is fine sky high on ebay is $1.25 foot. Probably need around 25 feet to do the power and ground wire.

Anl fuse block under the hood. Amazon $10 for a 2 pack with 150 amp fuse included

Heat shrink
Zip ties
Build amp rack
Door speakers brackets
$50


Could even do in stages
Stage 1. Replace head unit. $400
See how you like the sound from there you might be happy with just this upgrade.

Stage 2. Add the amp and subwoofer $ $500

Use the 5 channel amp to power the factory door and dash speakers. I would run new speaker wire and use a cheap $50 passive crossover to the 6×9 factory door speakers and then use just the dash speakers as a tweeter. Unhook the center channel
See how it sounds to you from here.

Stage 3. Replace the factory speakers in the door and the dash


Stage 4. Add a dsp and run everything active on the crossover settings. A dsp does alot for tuning the system



Stage 5. Take the rear seat out and put four 12 inch subs in it
Add an amp for each subwoofer
Redo all the power wire
Add 2 batteries


Stage 6. Come to the conclusion four 12 inch subs are not enough.
Add a camper shell to add space so you can run eight 12 inch subs, more amps, more batteries more power cable, more rca cables

Stage 7. Need to add more front speakers and amps to keep up with the eight 12 inch subs.

Good news you can use the dayton 8 inch sub you already have to run in the passenger foot well for more midbass. So you save a little money there.

 

^ I essentially did the above first 3 steps, although not in sequence. For me it was:

Step 1. Replace OEM amp with aftermarket amp and add subwoofer - obviously noticeable difference in bass (duh), decent difference in sound quality. I did it this way because I already had a subwoofer, so all I needed was the amp.

Step 2. Replace OEM speakers with aftermarket speakers. Did this about 3 months after step 1. Decent difference in sound quality, but not shocking.

Step 3. Replace OEM HU. I did this earlier this year because my HU was rebooting constantly - not enough to impact listening, but enough to piss me off. Not only was the sound quality tons better (given the Sony XAV-9000ES is not only a good head unit but includes an onboard DSP), but the dedicated bass channel took it from muddy, so-so bass to very tight, excellent quality bass.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd have waited 3 to 6 months, and then done the whole shootin' match at one time.