2011 Suspension ? New Owner

Hello, My son just got a 2011 Tundra. I don't think it was a 2wd TRD even though it has the stickers. Kind of confused as to why there seems to be so much offset and skid plates. Not sure if this is a lifted truck or just stock with leveling.
I think the one front shock is failing, but wanted to check with everyone on here. All the grease is below where you can see in the picture. It is a stock Tokico shock. I think this is a leveling kit but I'm not sure. I don't see anything on the rears, but did include a picture of the leaf springs, because I wasn't sure of the bottom block. It has the tow package on it that I do know from a VIN search. Thinking of what I should do for replacement. Doubt he will ever go offroading. Will be doing 10 hour trips to college a few times a year. Also, wondering if this steering boot should be a concern.

 

If it were mine-

I'd further investigate the leaks
Return the suspension to stock and replace all 4 shocks - good options on sale right now.
Get the offsets back to stock if they have been altered.
Drive it for awhile to determine if it needs anything else and your preferences.

Should be a great truck for a college student! Once you address a few problems you bought likely be able drive it until post graduation with little to no repairs and will suffer minimal depreciation.

 

It does have a front leveling kit installed. There isn't anything added to the rear.

 

As noted above, it has a spacer leveling kit. IMO, there are much better options of you are looking to keep it leveled; some of those options allow you to keep it stock height as well. Stock tokicos aren’t bad and aren’t too expensive but for around the same price you could get Bilstein 5100’s, Eibach Pro Truck, or similar. I’d avoid parts store shocks.

The rear suspension is indeed still stock, but this springs are fairly worn. See the ‘w’ shape bend to them? Replacement sets can be had from the likes of Rock Auto or General Spring for $500 or so for the pair.

Wheel offset goes with the wheels and unless there are wheel spacers between the wheel and hub, you would need to change wheels to change whee offset. The good news is that second-hand stock wheels are fairly inexpensive on CL, FB Marketplace and such. Just make sure you have the correct lugs and TPMS to how with them or they may cost you more than you thought.

Pretty nice rig for a college kid!

Oh, and the tow package is pretty easy to identify without the VIN search; it will have a factory hitch, tow haul button, and additional transmission cooler/lines that can been seen next to the radiator with the hood up. I believe 2011 had the trans cooler integrated in to the AC condenser but the lines are still visible come into through the firewall on the passenger side.

 

Thank you for the advice. Trying to get all this stuff done before he drives it 10 hours in August.
I took some more pictures. I'm still not convinced this doesn't have spacers. I think it is the TRD off road kit. Has the front tow hooks and skid plates and correct tire size. The offset is confusing me. Took it to an aftermarket guy yesterday and he said no. I think the rear wheel might though, he only looked at the front. I've included a picture of both wheels. Not sure why Bilsteins aren't on the truck if it had the TRD. Confused as to the painted over red brake calipers as well. I need to get new tires on it and I think the suspension will be changed. Do I need to do anything else if their are spacers on the wheels besides get it aligned. If the Tokico is bad on the one I plan on replacing them all with the Eibach or Bilstein and removing the spacer as recommended. If the shock is ok I'd rather avoid that and put the money into the tires, replacing brake pads (maybe rotors), fixing a possible coolant leak and getting the power steering bellow/boots looked at. The guy said these wheels are so old he didn't know what they were and we know they've been painted black. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I wiped off a lot of grease below the coil. It was dry towards the bottom though just the first few coils and few inches below were the greasy areas. Isn't that a spacer on the rear wheel? This is going to be a 90% highway truck and around town and would like to get it set up to ride smooth and not pull side to side. Sorry for being so wordy. No experience with offsets or spacers so trying to just not screw anything up.

 

Understandable. I started growing a money tree in the backyard but every time I shake it, it just laughs at me. Only so much cash to spend at once...

That shock definitely looks blown to me. The grease you wiped off was mostly likely shock oil that escaped the oil chamber, leaked down the shock, and attracted dirt and grime. The tokico's on my sequoia looked very similar and were beyond blown; the rears were so bad that you could move the shock shaft a couple of inches before there was any resistance at all. I knew they were bad when I bough the vehicle so I was prepared to upgrade from day one.

The wheels appear to have a more aggressive offset than stock. No spacers on them. What you are seeing behind the wheel is the rotor hat on both the front and back. The rear brakes are disc brakes but the parking brake uses a set of drum brake pads that are integrated in to the disc rotor. This isolates the parking brake from the hydraulic brakes, using a completely different circuit, actuator (drum piston vs disc caliper), and pads. Hopefully the pics below make sense.







Unfortunately, it looks like if you want to change the wheel offset, you will need to find another set of wheels. Factory takeoffs can be had for cheap-ish on CL or FB Marketplace. If you don't mine telling everybody whereabouts you are (or close to it), somebody here may have a set kicking around. If you remove the wheel and look at the backside, you may find some clues as to brand and offset. Quality wheels usually have the offset stamped in to them, but not all do.

 

There is a spacer lift installed on the front suspension. Rear looks stock. I would remove the shock spacer on the front. Those things are outright dangerous. A thin one thats 0.25-0.5 inches is ok, but that things like 2 inches thick. Take that out and change out the shocks and it should be good. I would look at billstein 5100's. Very budget friendly. While you are in there changing the shocks check the ball joints, bushings, wheel bearings, and tie rods for play. Good luck