Time to dig in.. 2004 DC Limited V8 Build

Okay, let me preface this with some background information. I am new to owning a Toyota anything, but have been a big fan of the first gen Tundras ever since they gained the reputation of running forever.

Two years ago I bought a 4xe Jeep Grand Cherokee, and its been a great daily driver. But.. I can't bring myself to drive a vehicle that drops in value so quickly. Add on dealing with the recalls and being too nice to drive off road or work on myself and I started looking at old trucks.

I ended up finding my Tundra on fb marketplace sooner than I was anticipating pulling the trigger. Scouts honor - I had the best of intentions to read through a lot more of these build threads and sticky-ed threads, but it was so clean and well taken care of with the exception of being smack dab in the middle of the rust belt in Illinois and NOT garage kept..

So here it is, at the beginning. Everything works 100% but getting the rust under control is going to be a challenge - but I'm all in.


Next up... the less pretty side.

 

Before buying I climbed under and knocked around on the frame and couldn't find any soft spots, it 'pinged' everywhere I tested. Ever the optimist, I decided I could strip all the rust and treat with a rust converter before painting over. Once I got it home I took a ball and pein hammer to it and began knocking scale off and found two spots that crumbled all the way through - just behind where the transmission crossmember bolts in on both sides.

Seems like water got inside and that's where it ended up pooling. I plan to replace most - if not all - of the suspension components in time. I have no experience welding but am willing to pay a shop to install Safe-T-Cap replacements in the worst areas once its all stripped down and treated.

Take a look and let me know if photos of any specific areas are needed. This thread will be very picture heavy and keep detailed notes of repairs and parts used.



Next up, timing belt and first parts order.

 

I typed in my vin at toyota.com and confirmed 'no recalls' listed on the website. While there I checked out the service history I noticed there is no records of its timing belt getting done - ever. Its possible that it may be the original belt at 159k miles and 21 years old. I pulled back the timing cover and sure enough, the belt looks like it should of snapped long ago. The engine is not getting started again until its been replaced.



Since the belt hasn't been done, I doubt anything else was ever serviced or replaced unless it broke. With this in mind, I want to replace everything that makes sense and is in reach while doing the timing belt. Take a look at my cart from rockauto and let me know if I am missing anything.

LBJs will be OEM, but am struggling to figure out what part numbers I need since 2004 was a crossover year where they went from smaller to larger ball joints.

Anything else I should consider sourcing directly from Toyota instead of rockauto? Opinions on a preventative replacement of the alternator?



I am also planning to replace all U-joints, based on this photo it looks like I would need 8 total. Can anyone confirm that?

 

OOf the frame. I hope you got a good deal, a lot of work there.

You're looking at 4 u joints there, one at each end of the front and rear drive shafts. The ones in the front are cv axles, and the one in the middle of the rear shaft is a carrier bearing, different from the u joints.

I personally wouldn't worry about the alternator until it becomes an issue. My focus would be the frame and the timing belt, in that order. Your RA cart looks fine. I think the big OEMs are just lbjs. OEM supplier stuff would be timing belt/water pump, etc. and coil packs. Others definitley know more. The mega-thread probably has all that info. Seems like you may be invested! Good luck!

 

I think I broke a tooth from biting down when I saw your frame. I agree with @MI_Treetaco Frame, TB and LBJs are priority above all else.

 

I can't complain, I got the truck for $7800. I am thinking I can get many wear parts, TB, WP, LBJs, and frame repair/rust treatment for ~$3500 and still be money ahead.

Thats great to know, much appreciated!

 

Welcome aboard! If you're doing u-joints, I'd only worry about the two below in red. Don't touch the one in blue unless you absolutely know what you're doing as it is a PITA. This is the double cardan joint.

Your rear driveshaft is two piece, with a carrier bearing in between it near the double cardan joint. The carrier bearing is 100% replaceable and you might be due for one.

Haven't really heard of many people needing to do the two on the front driveshaft; the front driveshaft barely moves unless you're in 4WD

The blue has your double cardan joint:

 

Better get that tooth looked at! Seems like my priorities are lining up with what y'all are telling me. I am doing the TB and everything else that is in reach while its apart, and the LBJs first. That way I am no longer scared of the belt snapping or folding a tire underneath while driving. I made an appointment with a shop a couple of hours away that specializes in rust treatment and frame repair, and going to have them weld in support for the frame as well as give an undercoating that they guarantee for 10 years.

 

That is really good to know, thanks! I am somewhat a newbie but also have a knack for diving into difficult projects and eventually figuring them out. I will look up some videos on changing out the one in blue and decide if its worth it, but with everything so thoroughly coated in rust down there I am looking to replace most of the bushings, suspension and other exposed areas.

 

I'm sure it can be done, but I've never seen someone on here successfully do one. Many driveshaft shops won't touch it even. There is a ball and spring inside the double cardan, and those parts are not available from the dealership. There is no procedure or write-up in the factory service manual, and Toyota just calls for driveshaft replacement if it is bad.

A few people on here have said they'll will try it themselves, but no one has reported back. From what I've seen on Facebook, the dudes that do try it and report back end up failing and just get a new/used driveshaft because they can't get it back together.