Transfer case actuator trouble on 2017

I was up in the mountains last week on a fishing trip turned serious 4x4 adventure. The Jeep and Razor/Side x Side folks couldn’t believe that a stock Tundra could get there. Upon returning to a decent gravel road, I couldn’t shift out of 4low. I tried all the usual things, backed up, turned wheels, and all such. Tried repeatedly over a couple of miles, then stopped to let it cool down some and even disconnected the battery to see if maybe that would reset something. Still didn’t work. Continued on another mile or so stopping often attempting to shift to 4hi, still no joy. Out of frustration I stopped, crawled under, and tapped around on the transfer case and related parts with a hammer (no, I didn’t beat on it…) and after a couple of shifting attempts and a loud “Clunk”, it shifted to 4hi and then to 2hi and I was back on my way.

In the Gen 2 section there is an extensive discussion of transfer case actuator trouble, but only one post (that I could find) on the later Borg Warner type. That post is very helpful and includes what appears to be factory replacement instructions, but I wonder if anyone has had similar issues with their Gen2.5 and if there are repair possibilities ( like on the Gen2) as it seems that no one other than Toyota has the part and it is pretty pricey.

 

I haven't read the post on the Gen 2 forum, but is it working ok now? My understanding is the best maintenance is to actuate it fairly often. Maybe monthly put it into and out of 4wd/Lo to keep things moving. If yours is working maybe increase your frequency of actuating it.

 

Since I am back in 2hi and need the truck, I haven’t messed with it any more. I’m afraid if getting stuck in 4 lo again…

At the beginning if the 4x4 adventure, I shifted back and forth between 4hi and 4lo several times and it shifted smoothly. I did make several water crossings after deciding to leave it in 4lo. Maybe water in the shift motor?

When I get this worked out, I definitely will do the monthly 4x4shift exercises.

Thanks

 

How old is the fluid? Just curious.

 

About 60k. Probably should be thinking about changing it.

 

My 2015 had this problem as well. It started at probably 75,000 miles. There were times that I thought I was going to be pulling the T-case.

I blamed it on my use of regular gear oil at 30,000 miles and then at 60,000 miles and or not actuating regularly.
I lost that truck in 2021 to a dual with a semi-truck. Neither truck drove away from that one but I did walk away

On my 2021 I have used Ravenol 75W at 50,000 miles and I engage 4WD about every month for a few miles. Too early to know but I have not had trouble yet.

 

I’ve also been using Ravenol in my ‘16 and haven’t had any issue. I cycle the transfer case through the ranges once or twice a month. I buy my fluids from Blauparts. They have a 4th of July sale running now. Also use Ravenol in my diff’s.

 

Reading this thread got me realizing I needed to run my transfer case through its paces (hadn't for a couple weeks).

Is simply engaging/disengaging 4hi/4lo a few times enough? Or do we actually need to follow the manuals suggestions of actually driving it several miles in 4hi?

 

I had a 2nd gen Tacoma and after I moved to a hot/warm climate area that doesn't see a lot of snow/ice I was pretty bad about actuating the 4x4 system. After a year and change of neglect on my part and at 106k miles it needed a t-case actuator which requires removing the t-case. After that debacle I'm much better about the cycling the system.

 

I've replaced mine twice and I'm at 110k. I don't use 4WD much so I think that's been my issue. My local garage charged me about a grand to do the job last time.

 

Did you find a solution prior to the unfortunate jousting event? Glad you came through that OK.

 

I stick mine in 4HI when I’m on a nice straight road. I figure it will slosh some oil around inside the front diff that way. I usually cycle it in and out of 4LO a few times on occasion when I come home from a drive before I shut the truck off.

 

I have 97k on my fluid and never a problem. I have not changed because when I changed it in my Tacoma at 50k it looked like it came out the bottle. Have had Ravenol in my Ebay cart for over a year. I cycle it through 4hi and 4lo monthly.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the front diff still spins when not in 4x4 since there's no hubs to lock, all the happens when switch to 4x4 is power is connected to the front. I assume Toyota wanting people to exercise the system is more about keeping the actuators in the transfer case working. I hardly drive much is 4x4 except when it snows but I will routinely switch in and out of 4hi and 4lo just to keep things moving.

 

After not using my 4lo for some time, it got stuck. I was in 4lo and took about 30 min to get back to 4hi. When I tried again later, it happened again.
Later on I just ran it through 4lo and 4hi, back to 2wd, and did that until it started working more smoothly. Just got the transfer case running through the paces. Then I repeated the process once a week for about two months.
Now everything works as it should. I use 4hi about once a month. When I remember, I’ll run it in 4lo to keep everything moving. I haven’t had any issues since.

 

I never did. I was looking at removing the actuator and trying to understand why it would not work.
I would like to get my hands on an old T-case for disassembly and discovery. There has to be a reason for this. Anyone have one laying around?

 

Was that some sort of AI response?

Source
https://www.warn.com/the-benefits-of-manual-locking-hubs

 

I guess this depends on how you define differential.
The spider gears are the differential and they are always turning. In fact 2WD spins your differential more than running in 4WD. The ring and pinion do not turn in 4WD. Disconnecting the shaft in the front axle stops them from spinning at the expense of the spider gears.... But since there is no load on them the wear is very very minimal. I also suspect that the drag created by spinning them is also minimal.

Warn is a little over the top with their claims here. They make it sound like Auto hubs do nothing at all. Sure my front driveshaft may turn a little in 2WD but it is nothing like it would be if I did not have an axle disconnect in the front.