What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

I am installing a turbo kit and decided to add a set of exhaust cutout valves. Can't wait to hear it!

 

The Eibachs are definitely a softer riding shock, but their weakness is heavy loads and corners. I found them to wallow a bit, and trailers were underdamped with the back of the truck bouncing a few times before settling. For a daily driver, they are great.

The 4600’s are definitely a little stiffer, but they handle loads and corners better. Many say the 4600 and 5100 are basically identical but I found them to be noticeably different. I actually diskliked the 4600’s on my sequoia but liked the 5100’s on the sequoia and tundra. They are improved over stock in both ride and handling. They corner great and are well damped under load, but on an empty truck they definitely provide more road feedback.

 

Agree 100% with what you said.

Fortunately, for me, I don’t off road or haul anything which was part of why I swapped to Eibachs.

I’m also gonna add RoadActuve Suspension.

Sadly, had a deal agreed to with a member on here, tried to pay instantly, but he said he was too busy to check the shipping & then sold them to someone else.

So I’m back to square one on looking for a used set of RAS to help the rear for my once or twice a year instance of hauling something.

 

I always gotta stop at the crooked river on my way to Redmond when visiting my cousin. Beautiful area...

 

Is this still working well for you? If it’s the one from Amazon, a couple of reviews said they quit working after a short amount of time.

 

Subscribed!

 

Got mine from Cartrim and works flawless.I've had it almost a year now and probably one of the best mods.I added the passenger side auto up/down switch about a month ago

 

Still working just fine.

 

So unforum-like! The vast majority of my experiences with forum members has been positive over the years. Sorry that someone on here stiffed you like that.

 

Any chance you have a link to the one you bought? TIA

 

I’m sure, most people in dedicated groups like this are good folk!

 

I posted this another thread too. I know you already did your job, but this might help someone else.

Get a 5/16” carbide bit & punch. Punch an indent and then drill a hole through a flat edge on the nut. Spin the nut 180 degrees, shaft will turn with it, doesn’t matter you’re throwing them away.

Drill another hole through the nut.

Soak Deep Creep or whatever in the two holes, nut will now turn for a bit until it binds up again, repeat spray.

The holes give the rust somewhere to go, it runs out when you spray into the holes.

It’s a very easy way to get them off.

Just made this up when I was doing my rear shocks recently, it’s now my go to anytime I’m dealing with rusty stuff.

 

Up late last night replacing my 5100's and cleaning the mounting surfaces of my wheels,rotors,hubs and spacers.
Remember no bolt,lock or shaft is any match for a Zip wheel.

$117 Walter 11T042 4-1/2X3/64X7/8 High Performance Zip Wheels Type 1 A60 Gr

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKTDBP0
When a blue wrench isn't feasible