2004 DC Big Job - TB, Front End, Steering Rack, Everything Else. Seeking Opinions & Commentary!

There's a sticky thread for that: https://www.tundras.com/threads/lower-ball-joints-part-numbers.97100/

 

Thank you Shifty I searched but couldn't find what I was looking for.

 

Inside that thread?

IIRC, 2004 is a crossover year. I want to say, if you currently have OEM, the size of the LBJ nut will tell you which ones to use, I want to say older style had a 14mm and one a 17mm?

@BubbaW you have a 2004 and I feel like you've been thru this. If you're available, any input?

 

Trimming trees….but the link you posted above references both TSB’s that came out. 2004 owners have to determine which TSB applies according to their VIN. I wanta say I recall @NickB_01TRD and possibly others addressed that numerous times in that same thread but of course memory is not what it used to be….all I got

 

to that!

Too much to remember, too little grey matter remaining over here

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/lower-ball-joints-part-numbers.97100/page-7#post-3684945
Check this post. You need to determine what month and year your truck was built in to determine what size joint you have. It would be good to also do a visual confirmation. Post up pics of what you have currently and maybe we can get you lined out.

 

I tried earlier to use the info @shifty` sent me for the other sticky thread but when I enter my vin at the link it says not valid but it comes back correct at the toyota.com /parts to a 2004 tundra beats me as to why. Is there another way to find the frame number because that's what the link calls it from the sticky thread I will determine the nut size hopefully tonight if it don't start pouring. I will check @NickB_01TRD info
Thanks for all the help you guys and glad to know that 04 was a cross over year. I really need to get this figured out so I can order the parts and get some of these issues figured out as she's getting kinda rough to drive and is my daily.

 

@NickB_01TRD II read through that post you sent. I still can not confirm my proper ball joint numbers or frame from og info @shifty` sent me. I can confirm that i Have 17MM Socket size bolt heads that hold them on. I have dealt with a lot of vehicle components over the years but this has been one of the most challenging things. Normally I would have just went to whatever parts store an bought the replacement. Then went on in life with no worries. I bought a cheap false water pump AKA fan bracket. from ava spent 6 hrs replacing it with a buddy doing the pump and belt after i was stuck 8 hrs away. it lasted about month took it back under warranty to ava and it failed again 6 mos later. I didn't bother warranty the 2nd time I just bought the oem pump fan and bracket. still have the bracket I could take it back under warranty but not worth my time. I said no more and bought the oem knock on wood. She is still solid.

 

VIN can be found in a couple places.

On the dash, driver's side, thru the windshield.
Driver's door, look on the physical door itself, just below the latch in the jamb.

Maybe you're missing a digit?

 

Post up some pictures and tell us the date your truck was built and we can probably get you lined out.

 

Just because it says that does not necessarily mean you entered something wrong, it's just the way Toyota is reporting back. The below pic as you can see is a valid 2004 for sale with proper entry and it comes back "not a valid VIN"

Given the first 8 characters of a persons VIN can not identify them, mind sharing your first eight digits.



The below attached pdf explains a Tundra VIN. As you can see, no way to identify a person via 1st 8 digits.

 

@BubbaW 5TBDT441

 

Here is a pick of the truck and door tag.

 

Yeah, weirdly, I plug that VIN into the EPC and I get nothing. The Toyota Parts site recognizes it's a 2004 Tundra.

Does the badge on the dash (look at it thru the windshield) match the door sticker there?

I did run that VIN thru Toyota's Parts system, and it kicked back the following:

• Passenger: https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/joint-assy-lwr-ball-4333039605
• Driver: https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/joint-assy-lwr-ball-4334039485

Ordering from this dealer (within the next 4 days), as long as you don't live in Alabama, are free shipping and no tax, and this is what the total bill would come out to be $216.99

​

 

not sure why it didn't post what i wrote on the quote post but using that info i should have a
UCK41L-PRSSKA . frame

 

@shifty` Thanks for confirming the part numbers are good I will just use that link and order the LBJ UBJ and TREs and the bolts for the lowers
I appreciate all of your guy's help wow they made this like reading hieroglyphics. I've had to decode vins before but wow even after I used @BubbaW info
I'm looking at 3 options lol

 

@DarkMint sorry for clustering up your thread with my mess.

 

Yeah, the UCK41L Model Code is also on the Certification sticker you posted that's showing your VIN....bottom right corner shows that Model code and your C(color)/TR(trim)

As for the 50J link, your 5TBDT441 is like my 2004 DC which was covered by the SSC-70B TSB, which I have attached and is not even a choice on the drop down menu at the 50J link.





Also....these are the parts I bought from my dealer back in Feb for my 2004 DC LTD.... LBJ….43330-39825 LH/43340-39595 RH

 

All good you have the best on this forum helping you out and dropping knowledge, i always learn from these guys.

also i remember i read somewhere, maybe on the LBJ main information thread, big ball joint has a more symmetrical bolt pattern, small ball joint bolts tend to be more "trapezoidal" in bolt hole placement.

Small LBJ



big LBJ




Kinda hard to tell but maybe you see what I mean.
Someone stop me if I'm flat out wrong.

 

Ok so I thought I had this all figured out had the cart ready to check out last night until it came to the LBJ bolts. The dealer site says 9008010066 on the fiche. I had already read through this bolt thread https://www.tundras.com/threads/spiker-engineering-lower-ball-joint-bolt-test-1st-gen.111746/ my understanding is that is the smaller bolt head I know I have a 17mm bolt head so i should need either 9011910933 or 9010512316 I think? The dealer site says they are all exact fits for my vin. Can one of you knowledgeable hieroglyphic readers help me out again. Added shots of what I have in my cart or had because I believe it must time out or something I've done it several times now.

 

Something didn't post right or I hit it wrong here's the other part of cart.

 

I answered many of the questions about the 2004 Tundras LBJs and bolts over here after installing them in my truck last August. Take a look:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/help-please-lower-ball-joint-hardware.151676/#post-3780701

 

@TnPlowboy Thanks that helped. I finally got the oem parts ordered. Thanks for all the help all you guys.

 

Progress^ Inserting here so i havent double uploaded. Shoutout to @455h0le_dachshund @Sirfive @Kimosabe old fashioned force did the trick, total PITA.
It has been an eventful time for someone who has never done UBJ/LBJ/UCA/LCA before. Could have gone better, could easily have gone worse.
One side is done ish. Pass side vs driver side. Will inspect joint geometry tomorrow in daylight to ensure nothing is pinching. Replaced stock brake line rubber hose and lower hard line part with KPO stainless braided line. Bolt that holds brake line to spindle snapped its head off like buttah, i may just ziptie the line to the spindle for now...
Also, alignment is ALL FUCKED UP since i have no idea what Im doing especially with the BisonOffRoad alignment tabs...but it fit so it's a problem for later.
Swapped out Monroe QuickStrut for Bilstein 5100 and OME 2887 springs.
Driver vs Pass:



Installed:



Process for UBJ:
Old crusty, no grease, only dry dirt in the boot:


Obligatory:



Pressing in the JBA UBJ adapter:

 

You done good.

 

Nice work. The other side will be easier and quicker. Maybe throw a little piece of wire around that ziptie holding the brake line. I'm not sure where you are but some zipties can break when they get too cold and brittle. Or just go grab an m-6 x1.25 ( I think) bolt and replace.