1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Yup. Most people think that the entire state of oregon is wet, but it’s just the west side of the state that’s wet and fertile, while the east side is dry with amazing geology.

The Willamette Valley is the main green swathe. It’s blocked in by the coast range mountains to the west, and the cascade mountains to the east. LOTS of rain in the coast range. LOTS of 4x4 trails up there as well. Not much rain gets east of those cascade mountains.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willamette_Valley

 

Looks like somewhere between Medford and Coos Bay is really the place to live? (Note: I know jackshit about PACNW)

 

Rust on all the clamps and on top of the ABS: That was a rust belt truck for a chunk of its life.

 

I am such an adolescent


that's some nice diversity, I've heard it's beautiful out there and only seen pics.

 

I mean I looked at the pics including interiors and tailgates and read the listings. So unless I missed something...


Fucking step side. Got me

 

I am waiting a bit to see if one a dealer purchased and re-listed for 5k more will decrease in price.

 

Been working on the Fiat a bunch. https://www.tundras.com/threads/1974-fiat-124-spider-perpetual-project.154876/page-2#post-3961325

 

It’s pretty rural in that spot. As far as i’m concerned, just north of North Plains is the best place in the world.

 

9th mr2 got dropped off by the friends that bought it for me as a thanks for the work I did doing a last minute clutch on their car and doing their v6 swap for them

 

What v6 did you swap for em?

 

They’ve got a 91 hard top they got a complete 3.3l swap for $800. I tossed it together and got the car running for them. was just a fix for their 3 cylinder 5s that decided cylinder #4 wanted to leave chat. Decent little 190jp car now. Just their weekend cruiser. They’ve got a c8 vette for going fast

 

Ok how about this one @BroHon @Jack McCarthy @Mohoman

 

Nice find! F’ing clueless seller thinks it’s called a crew max. Could be a great deal.

 

NVM it sold within 2 hours of posting haha.
I paid more ($9800) for my 06 in 2018 with more (199k) miles. It was in spectacular shape, but had bald tires.
Whoever bought that truck got a steal!

 

I know you been flipping Toyotas a while. Do you make any money on your flips?

 

have any of yall decided to learn to paint yourself when wanting to repaint ur trucks? would you recommend or just pay for a shop?

 

Someone correct me if I’m wrong but most people if they don’t already know how to paint and have the necessary tools, typically use the rattle can method from the posts I’ve seen here.

Typically auto paint requires a 15-20 cfm compressor. Not something that’s easily portable and that you can find at Harbor Freight.

 

Some of the automotive painting is in the actual laying down paint. I'll call it 25%. A majority of it is prep, say 40%. Getting the surface stripped of trim, flat, smooth and ready for paint is the biggest time consumer and makes a huge impact on the outcome. Then 35% is finishing the painted surface. Once your sprayed, rolled, blobbed or brushed the paint onto your truck, cutting and buffing that paint into a beautiful finish. I'm contemplating repainting my hood myself. I know I can probably get it to about 85% of what I want it to look like. The paint and materials will cost me $350-500. Time will be significant as it needs quite a bit of sanding, filling and priming, and sanding again to be ready for paint. Then the painting and finishing. I have no booth and would be shooting out of OEM color match rattle cans. Or, I could pull the hood and drop it at the paint shop I used for my sons car. He'll refinish the panel for $150 and paint it for $250.

 

Shops put a lot of money into booths/prep decks/supplies and materials to attempt a "factory-like" refinish. Like @KNABORES stated, the majority of the paint work is the prep phase. Avoiding solvent pop, feathering the bondo edges, and all that he noted above.
Our shop uses Axalta/Spies Hecker for its paint/pigments and we spray water based paint. Some shops use Finishmaster and so on and so on.

This is a good way to go but there will be color match issues between the hood and fenders. Generally we blend any adjacent panels for color match purposes, but on older vehicles it may not matter much. The only paint that we really don't blend is straight black with a 202 paint code.

 

Have you seen my current color match issues.....

 

Most of the time I make between 2-5k but, its gotten harder with the current stage of the world. Took a hit on the 4runner I just sold, I had no intention of selling it until my commute changed.

 

Ha, no I haven't.

 

So....now you're just ugly without a 4Runner?

 

Some people just want to blow money......

I had a customer come in for an estimate on her side mirror. The outer cover was damaged very slightly and the glass was shattered. I wrote her an estimate for a new assembly, as requested, ($600.00) but told her that all she really needs is the glass ($80.00). She wanted to go ahead and order the assembly anyway because she had already put the money aside.

I had to damn near beg her to not do that and even explained that if she ordered the glass from the parts department that I would install it for her free of charge in the parking lot. I wrote the part number down and sent her on her way to the parts counter after a bit more back and forth.

I'm all for making money, but I would feel like shit taking her money for that.

 

I squirted the driver fender, door, hood, and bumper cover on the front of my 2005 scion xB about 6 years ago. I was meh, i’ll just spray a butt match of the Onyx Blue Pearl (#8P8 paint code), and then deal with the mismatch panels. Son of a gun, it somehow matched the rest of the adjacent body panels perfectly! Same color under both UV and natural light too. I couldn’t believe it. I had my local paint store mix up a quart of PPG DBC.

 

I don't think that "squirted" should ever be used when talking about painting panels

 

So I've got the roached cab roof clear coat/paint like many others and am trying to figure out how to deal with it. I've read about some guys sanding and respraying paint and/or clear coat. I saw photos of one guy having a buddy with shop respray Toyota metallic black paint. What do you think? Best approach for time and money? I'm definitely leaning more towards DIY rather than paying a shop. Thanks!

 

My hood, roof, and cap are hurtin’ for a squirtin’.
I was caught off guard how expensive wraps are, so i might eventually paint it, or rhino line it…but i’ll probably just leave it be.

 

You would absolutely save money by doing it yourself if you are comfortable doing it your self. Most shops operate to do the full boat job and not the bare minimum do to warranties and liability. This would mean removing the windshield and back glass as well as the interior trim if the headliner needs to be removed for any body repairs. Most of the time the windshields break upon removal. Toyota doesn't actually sell paint other than touch up pens. They use paint manufacturers like Axalta or Finishmaster, even in the factory. The shop will have the best quality because of their set ups (other than MAACO), but it would cost a whole hell of a lot less DIY.

@Sirfive I wouldn't wrap it with active peeling clear coat. Removing the wrap would be absolutely devastating for the remaining clear coat.

 

Yea, its an outdoor truck, i dont really mind it looking like an outdoor truck.