Drive-Start Control Malfunction, Pre-Collision Sys Malfunction, Trailer Brake Error

Just purchased my truck 10 days ago and already need advice on how to resolve multiple error codes.

2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Pro - 5.7L V8

I received the dash error codes listed in the subject this past Friday. The only thing I have done so far is disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and then reconnected but errors persist. I have not checked fuses yet.

Took it to O'Reilly today to have them read the codes and this is what I got:

1. C1241 - Low or High Power Supply Voltage - Terminals are clean and in great shape
2. C1333 - Open Circuit in Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit - O'Reilly unable to order cable at all and sensor listed as special request and was told it would probably be unavailable as well. Have not verified which is the issue yet or if it might be fuse.
3. C1439 - Steering Angle Sensor Initialization Incomplete - No idea how to tackle this one at all.

Please advise on where I should start my troubleshooting or link me videos if possible. Thanks.

On a side note, O'Reilly uses VeriScan to read my codes. It shows my VIN, mileage, and make/model. Everything appears correct but it lists my truck as an SR5 and not TRD Pro. Is there a way to verify my truck is actually what it says it is and not some Frankenstein someone modded?

 

It’s normal for all Toyotas to show up as an SR5 on some scanners and vin checkers. It would be extremely expensive for someone to mod any non tundra pro to look like a pro. Fox shocks, pro leather seats, TRD grill, hood scoop, TRD badging, TRD bedside letters. Just wouldn’t be worth it.

 

So the errors code points to something underneath the truck. I would check the wiring going to each wheel speed sensor to start. Look for signs of rodents dropping or wire damage,

 

A bad speed sensor can cause several different codes. Go to Yota and replace your left rear speed sensor. Easy to swap out.

 

Like he said ^^^, you can get a handful of different codes from a single failure. A blown fuse to trailer plug gave me all sorts of errors. In your case, I'd get a wheel speed sensor from toyota dealer and see what that does for it. Not sure if you'll need to reset the code or if it'll clear itself once new sensor is in.

 

..... but i did that, well mostly, no fox shocks, hood scoop, or pro wheels but i added all the rest.

 

Post the VIN if you really want clarification of exactly what yours is.

All your codes are from the ABS Ecu.
C1241, ABS ecus says im not getting 12+V
C1333 ABS ecu doesn't like the seen input from the wheel speed sensor
C1439 ABS ecu doesn't like the steering angle sensor placement.

Check all the fuses, make sure the ABS ecu is getting fully powered.

 

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. I will check the fuses first and also the speed sensor cable as those are pretty quick and easy to do.

I did go ahead and check my VIN on a couple different sites and it came back as a TRD Pro.

 

When mine came up as a Brake system malfuntion, it was the 10 amp fuse under the drivers side. See attachment.
Hope this helps you.

 

Checked all the regular fuses under the hood and they were fine. Did not know how to check the relays. Have not checked fuses under the dash yet. Managed to stick my head in the rear fender wells but the cables and wheel sensors looked ok from appearance, not able to test them.

Figured I would just go ahead and replace the battery first since mine still has the original battery from factory. Do you all have a favorite battery brand?

 

• top'

Optima Red AGM Top Post Battery Group Size 35 720 CCA 90 Minute RC - RED35

 

Others will disagree, but I have been using optima’s in my boats for years without incident!

 

Lesson #1 learned about my 2020 Tundra TRD Pro...Duralast Gold battery does not work as the posts are on opposite ends and the cables are not long enough no matter which way you orient the battery.

 

Yeah. Gotta get the F version or something like that to have posts in right spot I think.

 

Yep, battery needs to be a 24F or 27F. The regular 24 or 27 batteries have the posts on the wrong side. When I went shopping for a new battery earlier this year, noticed most stores seemed to carry the non F version of the battery.

Also, the codes you received could be indicative of a battery on it's last leg. I've seen several posts here similar to yours where the poster replaced the battery and all of the various errors went away.

As someone else alluded to, you almost need a secret decoder ring to decipher the various error codes which typically tie back to one issue and the issue tends to be unrelated to the various errors you received.