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Crankshaft postion sensor wire problem

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Chuckbilly, Jun 11, 2025 at 8:01 PM.

  1. Jun 11, 2025 at 8:01 PM
    #1
    Chuckbilly

    Chuckbilly [OP] New Member

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    I'm the new guy and a bit desperate. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but no expert especially when it comes to electrical issues as I'm dealing with now.
    I have a 03 Tundra SR5 4x4 with 426k miles and engine still runs great. AC recently went out and I replaced everything. When I took serpentine belt off and back on I guess I didn't ziptie the crankshaft sensor wire harness back good enough and two days later it ate through the wires and put the truck in limp mode. I bought a aftermarket harness spliced the two wires back together with a new crankshaft sensor, wrapped everything correctly, installed and it wouldn't start. I checked all fuses and everything is good, none popped. I took crankshaft sensor wires back apart and applied volt meter to them and no volts, only dash light lite up is AT temp light. The truck turns as if no gas is getting to it. Gas is getting through the line but coil packs have no fire to it. Some safety is preventing coils from firing.
    It has tranny fluid in it but I'm thinking maybe AT temp sensor may need replaced.
    Any insight would be appreciated.
     
  2. Jun 12, 2025 at 5:55 AM
    #2
    The Black Mamba

    The Black Mamba A pure specimen of TX Black Snek

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    Good morning and welcome to the forum


    I have a few questions that need to be answered first so that there are no assumptions made.
    4.7 or 3.4?
    Please list what "everything" means. Compressor, evap, condenser, dryer, high-side line, low-side line, schrader valves, harness, sensor?
    Pics, if you have them, may be helpful. Are you certain that you have them connected correctly? How exactly did you "spice" them? I know that certain circuits will have a drop in voltage due to splicing and it's not recommended to do so. As a result, a lot of harnesses will require full replacement.

    EDIT: Here's a thread that may be of interest to you P0340 Code/camshaft position sensor | Toyota Tundra Forum
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2025 at 6:11 AM
  3. Jun 12, 2025 at 8:19 AM
    #3
    Chuckbilly

    Chuckbilly [OP] New Member

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    On AC system I replaced compressor, condenser coil, drier, expansion valve and new seal rings to those parts, that's all. Got make over kit off rockauto. Had my mechanic top off oil and charge system, truck was cold after that.
    It's a 4.7l
    I spliced the pigtail or crankshaft sensor connector one way took a volt reading ,no power, connected the other way still no reading. I installed connector to sensor and installed it, still no start, took off reverse the wires again installed again still no start.
    Geez I pray I dont haft to replace entire wire harness but tundra God may require a sacrifice I guess.
    Why is the AT temp light on?
    Buddy across the street hooked his code reader to it and didn't pull any initial codes but didn't get to dig to deep, it started raining.
    According to a speed read through your link I should check the cam sensor also maybe?
     
  4. Jun 12, 2025 at 9:23 AM
    #4
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    With key on engine off the AT temp light is always on. I think this is an odd setup but it's just how it operates.

    That crank sensor wire is a shielded cable, it really doesn’t like being spliced, however you aren't the first one to have an issue with it.
     
    The Black Mamba likes this.
  5. Jun 12, 2025 at 9:53 AM
    #5
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Blessed 2 B above Ground

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    If it indeed went into limp mode, there should also be a code.

    If crank sensor was also aftermarket, I'd suggest checking the sensor itself for proper resistance just in case.

    Crank Sensor resistance.jpg


    If key was in IGN ON position more service reminder indicators other than just AT temp light should be on.

    IGN ON.jpg



    As for crank sensor wires and no volts, if you were checking the connector end that goes back to the ECU, there will be no volts. The crank sensor itself develops the volts via the crank signal plate teeth passing in front of sensor. According to the voltage signal developed and sent to ECU, the ECU knows how many RPM's the crank is turning.

    How are you checking for that ?
     

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