Turbo Charging A Tundra!

I hate math.

 

Office work editing the AEM water/meth kit installation video. I also bench-tested the kit to investigate a pump noise that resulted to be related to a normal operation of a short detection feature that can be enable or disable. Found it later in the installation guide. I did a few more 0-60 runs to get a baseline, and my best time so far is 8.35 s, but I think I need more practice if the extra weight is not the reason.

 

Quick update:

The water/meth kit is installed and tested. Ready to be integrated with the turbo kit. This is the diagram from the installation guide, but I've added images of the components and wiring connections in my current setup. Thanks @bflooks for the suggestion to create this diagram.




Also, here's a video in case anyone wants to see all the installation details. I hope this helps!

https://youtu.be/qjNzMF3FcLQ

 

Look at you. Nice job!

 

Awesome, I will add to the site videos as well as links of the diagram and video int he instructions. Amazingly valuable work. Thank you Jego!

 

Not much. Just more miles. Gone through 2 gallons of boost juice so far. Been leaving the meth system on and letting the computers do their thing. Definitely need to watch it when you jump around someone in traffic. Once the meth starts coming in the turbo is immediately behind it.

I’m kicking around upgrading to the 880’s and doing the intake spacers and installing direct port meth nozzles. I want to see how far the factory e85 pump will go. I’ve read it flows between 320-370gph at 60psi. That should support the 880’s just fine and allow more boost plus the direct injection meth will help with cylinders cooling. Thoughts?

 

I don't know how the direct port w/m injection would work with the plastic intake manifold. It would t be any different than the concerns about an IAT sensor in the delrin spacers discussion in the SC thread. Curious how it works out, though.

Unless/until I do the turbo intake manifold I had posted a few weeks back, I'll be keeping the water/meth delivery as-is, but only because it appears the 500cc is everything needed.

Post up about the 880s if you get them in soon. I have a set reserved for the engine swap but I'm debating if I want to go directly to 1000cc like fastlane47 did with his built long block. Are you planning to run the 650s until you confirm you have passed the 80% DC?

 

I’m pretty much there with the 650’s. Any more than the 6.5-7psi I’m pushing and it just starts running lean. Bumping the fuel pressure up from 43 to 60 dropped a full point in AFR’s and I was able to add another psi of boost but we hit a ceiling.

If anything I want the 880’s as a safety net (cooler weather the boost increases and AFR’s lean out) so I’m not always running right at the max. Plus another psi or two of boost wouldn’t be a bad thing.

I’m not a 100% on the direct port meth. The benefits would certainly be nice but is it really required considering how well the intercooler keeps temps down?

 

Can’t remember if it’s been posted or not but the crossover pipe clears the deeper transmission pan with ease.

 

I had done some rough measurements when my pan arrived, but seeing is believing! Probably worthy of a wrap with the heat mat across that section of crossover.

 

There’s a solid inch of air gap. I’m not worried about it.

 

Quick update: new video about how I did the fuse box/harness relocation and insulation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xev0QL8cpU0

 

Waiting for the O-rings to remove/bypass the trans. warming puck / thermostat.

 

Not a tundra but still a lot of funzies!!!
06 4x4 single cab with twin 78s (big)!!!!
1500 HP!! Insanity!!!
427 Dart Block LS

 

Impressive!

 

Finally mounted the light for my meth system.

 

Nice. Simple, clean, and easy to see while driving.

 

We’ll see. I may swap it out for a red light instead of the green. Something brighter.

 

My biggest issue so far with the LED has been becoming desensitized to it. I wish there was a way to have an audible alarm instead for the critical sounds (such as low fluid level) which would have probably saved my ass. With it constantly being on, off, and/or flashing, it is almost like the BSM relocation for the tow mirrors. Curious if you notice the same thing

 

Haven't noticed it but it's always been out of my field of vision.

 

This make me think in a program for the Arduino to read the LED voltage when active to filter the critical alerts and make that sound. That will be something cool to try at some point.

 

Quick update:

• ABS Harness Relocation
• Engine GND Cable Relocation
• More wires relocation
• Brake line relocation (WIP) Mental block trying to figure out the best approach lol. Thanks to @bflooks, @centex, and @TurboKits for the support on this matter.
• Uploaded a new video about the ABS harness relocation:

https://youtu.be/W4-piJxkdSM

Wires relocation:

Before:


After:



Brake line

Before:




After: WIP
...

 

I have my green led just below my steering wheel. It's bright enough to let me know what's going on. You could wire in a buzzer or some tone that's triggered by the light too.

 

If I get bored enough I’m gonna print out a gauge holder for the scg1 with a spot for the LED so they are both in one spot. But for right now it’s not bad. LED on my left and SCG on my right.

 

Good job on the video! Having something to watch/see when doing it is very helpful. Curious to see how you end up handling that brake line.

 

Is your wideband just flush mounted to the cluster surround? There's room behind there for that? I like that!!

 

It's not flush. I have an Autometer 15 degree ring on painted to match. It's an older AEM failsafe afr/boost gauge. Just enough room for mount/ wiring in back. Some newer gauges are thin mount.

 

Great work again Jego. Thanks!

 

150 mile trip towing the rzr to get a new cage installed and then another 200ish to Hot Springs, AR. Gonna leave the solenoid in control and the meth on and see what happens. First tow with the valvebody installed also.