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New starter on 5.7L - reasonable quote for the work?

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by chris_01928, May 19, 2025.

  1. May 19, 2025 at 12:28 PM
    #1
    chris_01928

    chris_01928 [OP] New Member

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    200K miles, runs great otherwise. Starter just spins, has been spotty last year or so, and place I towed it to said needs starter and quoted 9 hours of work for $2100 (Chicago suburbs). Also said that is only if they don't break manifold bolts (+1 hr. per break).

    Is this within reason? I heard this was more like a 5-6 hr. job, but I'd have to get the thing towed elsewhere.
     
  2. May 20, 2025 at 5:57 PM
    #2
    MEGA VOL

    MEGA VOL New Member

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    I know that it is labor intensive job but if lived in the Chicago area I would call and get a quote from TCCN automotive
     
    ScreenSavers and AZBoatHauler like this.
  3. May 21, 2025 at 4:21 AM
    #3
    Apollothetundra

    Apollothetundra New Member

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    It can be done without taking the manifold off. I did mine to play it safe not wanting it to fail and leave me stranded. It definitely isn't a fun job as it is so cramped . And if I remember right there are 3 heat shields that you take off to get to it .
     
    Tripleconpanna likes this.
  4. May 21, 2025 at 5:42 AM
    #4
    Tripleconpanna

    Tripleconpanna Just an X who bought Bud Light from Target

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    Most dealers will quote about $1500 for the job + or - about $150....

    They are charging about $500 for the part and about $1000 labor (about 6.5 hours). With that being said, you can purchase an OE starter for about $240-$280 if you shop around w/various online Toyota parts dealers and happen to catch a decent deal (but that will probably mean you're waiting for parts to ship). Then find a dealer or trusted mechanic to do the job at around $1000 labor (depends on labor rates in your area), so all in about $1300 with some leg work and possible down time.
     
  5. Jun 8, 2025 at 4:23 PM
    #5
    chris_01928

    chris_01928 [OP] New Member

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    Just a follow-up...got it done myself. The difficulty was amplified by having the truck stuck outside my garage and it starting to rain for 3 days straight.

    My *strong advice* after seeing all the various methods mentioned - just un-bolt the passenger side engine mount and jack up the engine. Went like butter and no need to do anything other than that. Only other complication was I broke the starter connector but some silicone seems to be holding it in.

    May need to do the shocks/struts next...thing bounces down the highway, and pretty sure the wheel bearings are bad (and would explain the constant soft pedal). Still a great truck IMO having bought it used with 200K miles for 15K.
     
  6. Jun 8, 2025 at 7:55 PM
    #6
    TruckyTruck

    TruckyTruck Dumbest Username

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    That’s a lot of money you just saved yourself! Nice!
     
  7. Jun 10, 2025 at 5:56 PM
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    Rph74

    Rph74 New Member

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  8. Jun 10, 2025 at 6:06 PM
    #8
    Mdl

    Mdl Hey there...

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    JBA Longtubes, Snivs 2.0 SC pulley, ASP crank overdrive pulley 6.71 in, DD Full 3inch dual exhaust, IPT valve body, Airbox mod, 4.5inch intake, Denso 750, 450 Walbro, W/M injection, GM 95mm TB, SABM, Camburg UCA, Icon shocks, Speedmaster LSD, Motive 5.29 Gears, Mickey Thompson Baja Legend EXP 35's, Solid Offroad engine and transmission mounts, DIY Traction Bars, Tuning by Snivspeedshop.com
    Good you saved some $$$.
    If you ever get a no start situation where you turn key and it goes through the cycle but doesn't start. It's the trigger wire that you silicone in. You can usually reach up to get at it after removing the heat shield.
    Just a FYI.
     

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