Identifying rear axle

Hi guys. First post here. I need a new axle shaft as mine is likely bent, the runout measured on the outside of the axle nut is ~10x greater than specification at some points.

Can someone help identify whether this rear axle is from an access cab? The vin shows that it was an access cab but I saw on another forum post that only double cabs have recessed inner seals. Also, the pumpkin has 3.90 scratched on it if that helps in identification. The truck is a 2001 4.7l 4x2 Tundra.

 

That's the correct axle. I can tell by the way it is.

 

Thanks a lot, I appreciate the quick response. I also measured from flange to flange/across the backing plates and came up with approx 59" which I believe is the correct measurement for an axle from an access cab. So now the question is, can I go to the junkyard and replace it with an driver's side axle shaft from say, a 1st gen v6 access cab tundra? What are the limitations?

 

Also, does abs increase the length of the shaft? Or would I be fine with getting a non-abs part and just installing the tone ring and retainer?

Thanks.

 

The v6 should run the same axle, maybe a different pinion flange. @The Black Mamba is the resident expert there

As for the tone ring I wouldn't bother trying to locate and install that correctly, just find an oem used unit. @bmf4069 can tell you some stories

 

Where are you measuring runout? There is no rear axle nut.

 

That one greasy third member. How’s the axle vent looking?

 

and plsatic piece

I meant "axle shaft deviation" as specified in the fsm.

 

Thanks for the tips. So to reiterate, the ABS axle is the same length as the non-abs, all else equal?

 

I checked it and the spring was nice and supple; the plastic piece was also nice and undamaged. I think the gasket is just old. The rear axle shaft was leaking gear oil as well but that occurred after the differential was leaking for quite some time. I believe the retainer ring on the tone ring was installed too far in so that the bevel on it was riding right on the seal, leading to premature wear.

 

I am guessing however, that when seal leaks it doesn't immediately cause gear oil to leak onto the back side of the wheel (which is how I noticed it). Hence the two leaks could have occurred close in time. I may just replace the valve to be safe. I also checked that there is a clear passage from inside the differential to the valve by spraying a little brake clean inside and watching it drip out after I drained the diff.

 

Also, my spline count for the rear shafts are 30... does anyone know why a lot of replacement kits are 32?