Questions about the window open/close Master Switch (2013 Tundra)

2013 TRD Off Road, 5.7L engine 4WD:
A day or two ago I tried to open the driver's side front window, and it automatically moved down about one-half of the way. At that point I lifted the switch to move the window up, but it seemed to be stuck in place while the master switch made a rattling noise. I then tried to open the rear side windows using the driver's Master switch with the same result. In this case each moved down some, but got stuck and I could not get them to close, not even when using the window-close switches on the back doors. So I had to push each window "up" with my hands while my wife held each window open/close switch on the doors. I did the same with the driver's (front) window.

I thought that I should give a "master switch timing reset" -following one of the Youtube videos, starting with the driver's side front window that had failed first. The idea was to open it fully, hold the switch down for 5 seconds, then close the window fully and hold the switch for 5 seconds. Well, the window made "all the way down for sure" but very slowly...while the switch made the rattling noise. I held the switch down for 5-6 seconds, and pulled up to close the window, but it would not move up at all. Meanwhile the switch continued making the rattling noise as long as I held it up to close or just to open the window. because I could not get a hold of the glass this time, my next step was to remove the entire door panel and then lift the window up while my wife held the switch UP to close the window a few inches up (the switch rattled all along). This in turn allowed me to grab the glass with my hands and push the window all the way up (my wife had to lift the window switch, while the switch rattled continuously)

Anyway, I tried to do the switch timing resent with each door switch (one on each door), but stopped when realizing again that they would not open very much and then get stuck half down. I had to close all by pushing them up just like I did with the driver's window, but at least from half-way down to fully closed.

Conclusion: a. Does it seem that the problem is a defective Master Switch cluster, and not a driver window's actuator? b. There is no way that four actuators are going to malfunction like that. In fact, that problem started all of a sudden starting with the driver's window.

What are your thoughts on this problem? Any of your ideas on this matter would be upmost appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

Bump in case I receive a replay on this thread.

Since nobody has replied to my post, I plan to take my truck to the local Toyota dealership to have them troubleshoot the possibility of a malfunctioning windows Master Switch. Labor is quite expensive in Fairbanks, Alaska, somewhere close to $150.00 an hour, maybe a little more than that, and so is the cost of a new Toyota Master Switch, which costs around $265.00. But if it is found that the switch is defective, I can buy an aftermarket one for $195.00 from Napa and other automobile parts store in Fairbanks and replace it myself. I just don't have a 2nd Generation Tundra's troubleshooting guide, so I will have to rely on the dealership or an independent shop.

 

Can you source a good used one from a nearby wrecker? Maybe even try a new one from Amazon/ebay? You can get aftermarket ones that do auto up AND down for all four doors on the master switch for under $100.

As for troubleshooting, are you able to unplug any of the window motors and power probe them dorect power to see if they function up and down without the switch? Just reverse the polarity to test both directions. Maybe test the wiring from the switch to the fuse panel area. Could be a short in the wiring or the switch itself. I believe searching on here you can find most wiring diagrams.

 

Thank you for replaying!

What I did first was to use the Master switch to open the driver's window, and it opened as it should then stopped mid way down and it would not move up (got stuck in that position). Trying to raise it would make something in the switch cluster make a loud and continuous rattling noise that would stop when I would release the window switch. However, one time I locked/unlocked the door with the door unlock/lock switch on the Master switch cluster, and then raised the window normally (no noise and it closed at its normal speed. I then thought that the problem was a glitch or something like that.

Then I drove the truck to a landfill nearby and decided to open both the driver's and the back windows and all of them got stuck half way down. I ended up raising all the windows as I mentioned in my first post (my wife would hold each with in the close position while I would grab the glass with my hands and push it UP to close. But each time that I used the master switch it would make the loud rattling noise.

None of the switches one on each door, would fully open the window (all would hat stuck half way down), but only the driver's window switch would make the rattling noise. While I did fully opened the driver's window, I ended up having to take the door panel off in order to force it up and then close it. I didn't want to take the chance of having to remove each door panel to test the timing for each window

I believe that there is not problem is either the Master Switch cluster, or the driver's window actuator, but not a power problem to the three other actuators. It is possible that the switch for the driver's window switch that makes noise or the actuator are causing the problem, or maybe a timing issue. Only the Master with that closes/opens the driver's window automatically makes the railing noise. I plan to go to a local salvage yard to buy a Master switch cluster.

Once I figure the problem I will return o this thread and post the answer.

 

I can’t really comment on the issue you are having but I have a working window switch I removed from my tundra and replaced with the cool trendy all auto up down switch.

you can have mine to run some tests if you want, before you take it to the shop

 

Thanks! PM sent

 

Just an update in case it can help somebody else with the same problems. As I posted above, the malfunction is as follows: regardless if using the master switch on the driver's door, or the window open/close switch at each door, none of the windows would open fast as they should, and once the window has finally reached down a little it gets stuck and won't come up regardless of how long you hold the switch UP to close it. Meanwhile, the driver's Auto (window open/close switch) makes a loud rattling noise (sounds like a continuous relay rattling that won't stop until I turn the ignition switch off).

What I did today was to remove the Master switch assembly, and thoroughly cleaned it with electrical contact cleaner, let it air dry, and then reinstall it. When I turned the ignition switch to power the window switches, the rattling nose switched from the driver's window switch to the passenger window switch (both switches are next to each other on the same panel), and this in turn opened both the driver's and front passenger's windows half-way, and as slowly as before. I had to immediately turn the ignition switch off to prevent these two windows from moving down further.

I had to cover the window openings with a couple of plastic bags to keep the rain out for a day or two, and ordered a master switch from a local automobile store that had one at another store in Alaska. Should receive it is a day or two.

 

just a heads up, I never got your PM.

I didnt read your update, but if you need or want my switch I still have it

 

Thanks Jwood562 for letting me know, and for the offer.

I should have the master switch panel by tomorrow (Tuesday June 2). Will come back to post if the new master switch fixes the problem.

 

I installed the auto up/down master and passenger switch for my 2020 SR5 from Cartrim.No problems for over a year now

 

BR73, that's a great setup you have in your truck!

In relation to the problem I am having with my 2013 Tundra's windows, while the new master switch I installed yesterday is not shorted like the old one was, the problem continues, but in a different way as I will explain below. Anyway, after I cleaned and reinstalled the master switch on the driver's door, the right window switch would now start making the rattling noise I referred to above-as soon as I would turn the ignition switch to power the windows, and in would immediately and very slowly open both the driver's and right windows, so I had to turn the power off.

The new Master switch is nice and quiet until I lift the Auto window switch to close the driver's window. But it still makes the rattling noise and it won't close any of the widows. None of the window switches on all four doors would raise the windows, and now I cannot even close the windows by pushing them up with my hands while my wife holds the switch at each door UP to close them while I try to push them up.

This leads me to the next step, because it seems that all four windows have lost either "window close" power, or perhaps have lost ground: I am going to check the fuses (located in the cab at the driver's side). However, this fuse panel is missing the plastic cover that has the inscriptions that would tell me with fuse is the right one, so I will have to do it the hard way by pulling one fuse at a time.

Then since I cannot drive the truck with plastic covering the windows, I may have to take it to the dealer's shop so they can diagnose and fix the problem.
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Update to my post above:
The circuit breakers are fine. I thought that I should check it for tightness or looseness, before I proceed to check all the grounding points for the 4 windows' open/close circuits. I managed to close all the windows as I have done before alternating from the driver's master switch panel and each window switch at the doors. So at least I can drive the truck as long as I don't open any of the windows.

The reason why I plan to check the grounding points mentioned above is because: a. From the beginning the problem points to the Master and other window switches at the doors, all the window actuators or motors not working, but I don't think that is possible.

b. However, several of the ground leads pass through the same plugs, so I plan to check these plugs for tightness before I throw-in the towel. Also, I will have to figure out a connector, plug, and even a relay- one that is common to the entire power and ground connection (to all windows). The door lock/unlock (remote and manual) system is working without problems. The windows (glass) aren't sticking to the weather seals.

Additional note: The master (AUTO) switch for the driver's window, still makes the abnormal rattling sound when a press it to open or lift it to close the window, and since this window is fully closed it makes the normal "light thumping" sound as when the window hits it's fully-UP stop. All the switches, both at the Master switch for the driver and each window switch at the other doors, make the same and normal thumping sound. This leads believe that there is either a loose connection somewhere (maybe relay?) on the main power/ground harness between the battery and all the window circuits.

 

Yes, I have seen lots of master switches at Amazon and other online stores that cost under $50.00, and I looked for the master switch at two of the local wreckers without success, so I bought one from an automobile parts store nearby that offers military discounts (the dealership does not).

Also I found all the wiring diagrams I needed at this 2nd Generation Tundra Forum, and then printed them at home. But the service manuals don't show troubleshooting guides, just components location, wiring and other diagrams, and so on.

 

I am ready to give-up my trying to troubleshoot the problem with the windows and take it to the dealership's shop. So far I know that there was something wrong with the old master switch on the driver's door, so I replaced it with a new one. The old master switch-after I cleaned the contacts with "contact cleaner," would move the windows down by itself as soon as I would turn the ignition switch to accessories to power the window circuits. The new master switch is not doing that.

The original rattling noise with the master Auto window open/close switch on the driver's door is still there with the new master switch, and is heard when the Auto switch is lifted to close the window. But the main and original problem, the one I need to resolve remains as follows with all the door switches on all the doors:

1. If I close each window, regardless if using the driver's master switches of the one at each door, the window opens slowly (too slow), and if I want to close it the window gets stuck in place and won't come up (keep in mind that only the driver's window switch makes the rattling noise). At this point the only way I can close it is by having my wife lifting the switch UP while I push or lift the window UP. If the switch is not held in the window-close position (lifted), it is nearly impossible to lift it all the way up.

2. It seems that there is "some power", but not "full power" applied to open each window, but even less power to close each window.

The two-fold question I have in my mind is this:
a. Would a malfunctioning window regulator on the driver's door interfere with power distribution in the other 3 windows?
b. Would the Main Body ECU cause the problem?
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An additional note that may be of interest to some: I just realized that I had a Chilton "Toyota Tundra 2007-14. Sequoia 2008-14" manual. The wiring diagrams for the windows are shown in section 12-30 Chassis Electrical System. The power (fuses) are shown as follows: Hot at all times, Hot on start, Hot on ACC.

 

I am not in any way an expert but pretty good at troubleshooting.
A. Not likely
B. More likely given everything else you have tried. It is tied into many things including window operation. Replacing it would be my hail Mary before the dealership route.

Edit: I feel like the switch rattling is possibly intermittent signal from the bcm failing

 

The reason why I mentioned the ECU relates to the 30-Amp Number 1 power relay, which energizes with the key turned to either accessories (ACC) or when the engine is started. I have no idea where this relay is located at, but when it energizes one of the two contacts closes the "grounds" circuits (Plugs J1, J2, J3) to all the window regulators, and through the other contact it transfers 30-Amp Power Number 1 to all the window close/open switches.

But the power to energize the Power Number One 30A relay is the 7.5 Amp ACC power out of 18 (PWS) of the Main Body ECU, and there aren't any problems with all the accessories (heater blower, instrument lights, and so on). They all function normally, regardless if I start the engine or just turn the key to ACC Opening any of the windows opens it very slowly, but each switch at any of the doors fails to raise the window. The driver's Auto window switch fails to close the window while making the loud rattling noise. The door lock/unlock circuits (remote and manually) are working perfectly. I do plan to check all the 7.5 fuses in the cab and above the parking brake pedal.

I do agree with you that is possible that the driver's window actuator is malfunctioning, because that's the only switch that is making the rattling noise I have referred to, and also because it was this window that failed first, long before the other ones. Maybe it turned into an issue of timing between the windows' open/close commands. Napa and other local shops have the complete assembly with the the motor, so maybe I can replace the entire thing since it is not too expensive.

 

Have you done any of the following process of elimination?
-manually put direct power to each window motor with a power probe or some wires and a battery. Confirm each one works correctly up and down (just flip polarity)
-test the window motor plug at each door for voltage when pressing switch up and down. Test the voltage coming into each switch as well. See if you can find a difference or a power drop somewhere. If not keep tracing wiring straight until the source.
When testing for voltage I assume it should match the battery voltage or at least within a volt or two.

 

You can source a good one from a nearby wrecker?

 

This sorta sounds like the master switch TSB for the 2nd gens. I had a similar issue back in '17, master switch failed and locked all my other windows out in the halfway down position. Not sure if the '13 fall under that TSB. Your best bet is to look up said TSB and see if your VIN falls in the affected ones.
I also bought into the fancy all auto up/down master switch, but I live pretty close to hell, so it lasted just over a year and is now dead, so I'm back to oem.

 

That's a good idea; thanks for bringing it up.
I have been too lazy to test each window motor, but plan to test the driver's window motor today.

 

The OM are expensive, but there are a few remanufactured ones at the local automobile parts that are relatively cheap. I had to replace a couple of them on a 2001 Silverado I drove a few years ago.

Thanks!
I am going to look into it.

Most of the master switches can be quite expensive. The Toyota on costs around little over $300.00, and the Dorman ones cost anywhere from $200.00 to $280.00. The Dorman ones look exactly like the OM or Toyota ones.

 

yea i would definitely test what you can. process of elimination. test the voltage in and out of every window switch too. at least can narrow down the issue. look into that tsb as well. i wouldn't go new oem. perhaps call a wrecker like lkq or whatever bigger names you can think of and im sure they can source and ship you a good used one.