Power Windows, Mirrors, and Door Locks

They all stopped working, both the driver’s and passenger’s side. I replaced the 30 amp fuse located at the top right of the cabin fuse box. Didn’t help. Any suggestions?

 

Did you check fuses under the hood?

Is there an aftermarket alarm involved? (Look under driver dash even if you don’t think there is)

 

While the 30A Power fuse can affect the Door Lock and Power Window operation, it will not affect operation of Remote Control Mirror. It is protected by the 15A ACC fuse when key is in ACC position.

While knowing what type of alarm system you have is important if you don't already know, it will not affect Power Window nor Pwr Mirror operation.

What is a possible problem which comes up quite often is water penetration which causes corrosion inside the Integration Relay circuit located on back of Cab fuse panel. All three of the circuits with problems meet up at the Integration relay before heading to their respective circuits.

 

Thanks for the tips. The truck is stock, the alarm system and even the stereo are still OEM. Any advice on how to get to the integration relay?

 

If aftermarket alarm is present, the doors will have had relays installed, teed off the controls, i.e. the installer would've been in the doors futzing with the main harness to the master/driver door control. If they were to either not fully snap the control in, or damage a wire, ground, couple of wires, it could lend to all the symptoms.

Before you do that, what I just wrote made me think of something. The driver door control is a "master" control of sorts. This will sound nuts, but it's worked for others....

Pop up the driver door control. Make sure its bundle(s) are fully seated in the back of the control. If they are, fully unplug them, and re-plug them a couple of times to 'freshen' the contacts, then test again.

 

Well, we can count that since their saying it’s OEM.

While master sw would affect door lock and window, it won’t affect remote mirror. Could have 2 issues sure but taking the 3 failures together, it won’t be master switch, was/is my point.

 

Everything he says is not working is on the driver door control for AC trucks, which the OP owns. I think you may be thinking of DC mirror control being on the dash.

I'm going by OPs avatar showing an AC, since they didn't bother to explain what cab of truck they have, probably not understanding why it's important. They should really update their 'Vehicle One-Line Description' in their profile to read 2000 AC Limited since we don't necessarily need to know if it's TRD. I didn't think "TRD Limited" was even a thing. Sounds almost like someone got sticker-happy on the bed.

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All of these components do share:

IB3 LH - IF3 RH connector for power and ground
Also, the IF ground point and B2 and B3 splice points in the LH door





It would be worth looking into for voltage and ground testing..

 

Yea, I assumed also via profile picture he was an AC. Definitely correct on DC mirror control location.

When I said earlier...."While master sw would affect door lock and window, it won’t affect remote mirror"....it appears I needed to add more to that for some.

The reason being, I'm looking at the EWD and know there are 2 separate connectors at the Master assembly, 1 for the Remote Mirror(R10) with it's own separate circuit board and the other for the Pwr Window/Door Lock(P10) with their own circuit board. I forgot some folks don't do EWD's and would not know that....my bad.

If @dbculp wishes to check the connectors as you suggested, it would be a good time to also check voltages at that Master assembly and other locations as @1lowlife suggested....if he's equipped with a volt ohm meter.




@dbculp, I have attached mirror and window drawings from EWD if it will help. The complete 2000 EWD can be had at this link---->Ultimate TUNDRA Wiring Diagrams Collection | Toyota Tundra Forum

 

He may not know there are multiple, hoping the plural language indicated more than one connector to deal with. I definitely suck with EWDs. Water event, like leaving window rolled down, could totally corrode things on both. Shared ground, I think @1lowlife was pointing at, knowing the A-pillar/door leak issues is also a great thought.

We have a thread around here somewhere with the unplug/replug advice, and at least a couple of responders confirming that resolve the issue. Only takes a minute to do, carefully pop up the control trim board, and unplug/replug. Can probably also tell if there's t-tap wiring in the doors just by removing that trim plate, too.

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I pulled the panel, unplugged both connectors, and cleaned the contacts. Also replaced the 15A fuse that powers the mirrors. Didn’t make any difference. No surprise, the contacts looked ok and the fuse didn’t appear to be blown. So, I have 2 different switches on 2 different circuits that stopped working at the same time. It seems like the Integration Relay circuit should be the next thing I should check.

 

Before you do that - because it's a pain in the ass to get the integration relay/fusebox out of the dash to check for the infamous water leak ....

Does the courtesy light in the door card turn on when the door is open, the one on the jamb side? Just to prove if any power is hitting the door.

Do you have a multimeter? If you do, I'd backprobe both controls for power with a known-good ground somewhere also on the chassis. It should indicate if it's a shared-ground problem.

All wires inside the door are effectively bundled together, then pass thru the rubber grommet at the door jamb. Do you see any damage there?

If not, pop off the door sill cover, then pop out the kick panel - once the harness comes into the cab shell, it plugs into a bulkhead right there, pop out the connector and look for corrosion there, in case something is leaking from the door sill down the trim/a-pillar, and into the kick panel. You may also want to test for power at that bulkhead, which would reveal a problem with the door harness, somewhere between that bulkhead and the door switch.

If nothing is lit up there, @BubbaW is better than me at reading the EWD, I can't say if there's another relay or something to check, but I think ("think") the next step would be pulling the fusebox. This is what you're looking for, in a few different cases: pics & pics & pics

 

And this is the courtesy light I'm talking about. It should turn on when the door is open. It's the only other thing I can think of in the door that gets power. And the only other thing (other than the speakers) which is on a wire that would send a debuggable signal, and I think you'd know clearly if the speakers weren't working. And if you can think of any maintenance item you did recently, like trying to install a backup camera, that could be good info too.

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If you indeed choose that route, know that's it not for the faint of heart. It's not that it's a difficult job but patience will be your friend. Also when unplugging connectors, mark them good so you know where they go or take good pictures. Definitely unplug battery before diving inn

If you are equipped and capable of making voltage measurements, I'd take the lead from the info @1lowlife shared and also the EWD's I uploaded and make some checks before diving into the Integration relay.

The connectors showing in @1lowlife post IB3(driver kick panel) and IF3(pass kick panel) are quick checks for power window and/or mirror. If proper voltage is not there with key in IGN ON position, the next point those signals go is directly to the Integ Relay. Pulling Drver or Pass kick panels are not difficult to remove....just small amount of time.

The below is power window and mirror checks. If either are not there, your headed toward Integ Relay. Any other checks, let us know.

 

Thanks for some great tips. Got some vacation days coming up, so I won’t get into it for a week or so. I’ll post back when I have a chance to explore the door.

 

Also, the courtesy light does come on when the door is open, so there is at least some power getting into the door.

 

I’ve determined that the switches are not the problem. They are simply not getting power. The bundle of wires between the body and door looks good. Next I’ll try removing the kick panel and checking those connections.