What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Have you got a part number for the Lexus drain plugs? Or are they just 12M x 1.25?

 

It's lit up now

 

Time to stock up while the Memorial Day sale is available

 

Walmart $24.97 this weekend

 

Installed ESP long box lockable storage yesterday. Was a fun project to do with my son.

Also Earl provides great customer service and can definitely go down a rabbit hole of great advice when you tell him your other plans for your truck.

 

9034118060 1 $ 9.20 PLUG
9034124016 1 $ 9.47PLUG

 

On the way and it helps to order off Lexus parts online
My DA was looking on the Toyota online parts

 

Here you go! You'll need to order the drain bolt and fill plug bolt through Lexus, Toyota will not carry them. These are the part numbers for the front differential.

Lexus Part#: 90341-18060
Lexus Part#: 90341-24016

Here are the part numbers for the steel crush washer and copper washer for the above bolts. I ordered these from Toyota (they are compatible with the above Lexus bolts as well as the OEM Tundra Hex bolts).

Steel Crush Washer: Toyota Part#:

$14 12157-10010 Toyota Oil Drain Plug Crushable Steel Gaskets Set of 10 OEM 12157-10010

12157-10010
Copper Washer: Toyota Part#: 90430-24017

Figured you might need those part numbers as well.

 

On the way

 

Maybe southern AZ...or at least not anything north of the Mogollon. For decades, Flagstaff and ADOT in NAZ used cinders for their roads, but switched to MgCl2 a decade ago, but then the city and county switched back to cinders, while ADOT still uses mag chloride.

I've taken to PB Blasting fasteners ahead of time, as I've broken off weld nuts, and most recently, the drain plug on the front diff gave me fits.

I ordered the Lex ones like you have, and hopefully will have the rear diff back in today, and axle assembled, ready for lube tomorrow.

 

x2 thank you guys for the part #s and reminder to do this

 

This thread and the guys on it are awesome. Tons of knowledge and correct information unlike some FB keyboard warriors

 

It’s @TRDFerguson and @RainMan_PNW fault I’m even on this thread

 

I finally figured out a system for hauling my atv.

I installed a flush fairlead and synthetic winch line.

Then installed a set of walmart car ramps in the bed.

 

Heavy Duty, Hard Tonneau Covers | DiamondBack Covers

 

Sorry, but I don't like the set up. Some decent bumps may lead to a shattered back window. Call me overly cautious but that is how I roll.

 

Or turn that popup into a camper/toyhauler.

 

+1. Looks like an accident waiting to happen.

 

this makes me nervous. Also compressing in on the tailgate cap isn’t good.

 

Didn’t do anything to the tundra, but dewinterized the camper and resealed the roof with self leveling lap sealant. I wasn’t able to attend our annual Memorial Day camping trip (which has grown to 25+ families!!!!!) because of everything going on with my dad but my wife and daughter went and tent camped. I used a half day to dewinterize and resealed the camper to get ready for the season after going to spend a few hours with my dad. He had his scan this evening which will determine if he is a candidate for surgery on Tuesday - appreciate all the prayers as he really needs them. He was pissed that I didn’t go on the trip but I wouldn’t have forgiven myself if something happened and I wasn’t able to make it back. We will schedule other trips with the camper this spring / summer / fall and use it whenever we can. Felt good to get it done and be distracted for awhile.

 

I believe it was you that inquired about loading your ATV days ago.. I was trying to remember the name of the product that I saw in my IG reels but now I looked it up and was able to find it..

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CacfETYorJd/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Might be worth researching.

 

You made the right decision! You only have one Dad and there will be other camping opportunities. You are a good Son!

 

Well I got my GCS cooler installed yesterday and added the recommended 1.5qt then did the temp check with my veepeak OBD2 reader but I didn't like the color of the trans fluid that came out of the temp check plug.After putting my skid plate back on I decided to drain n fill today.Oh I sanded and repainted the skid plate and hooks.

 

Spent 2.5 hrs cleaning the rig. It was covered with reddish dust from Flagstaff/Sedona area from Overland Expo camping last weekend. Opened the RTT to air out, cleaned the inside up as well.

 

Today I vacuumed and recharged my AC system after interchiller installation and replacing the condenser and compressor. Steps I took are below in case anyone is interested.

Notes:
Verify refrigerant type from sticker under hood
Rent/purchase manifold gauge and vacuum pump (verify compatible refrigerant types as connections differ)
Purchase refrigerant cans and adapter (specific to refrigerant type)
Wear gloves and eye protection
Blue is low pressure and fitting is near brake booster on AC suction line, Red is high pressure and is located behind the grill next to the AC pressure switch

vacuum AC system
1. close valves on gauge manifold
2. close valves on blue and red hose connections
3. connect low and high pressure hoses to AC line fittings
4. open valves on blue and red hose connections
5. connect vacuum pump to yellow line
6. turn on vacuum pump
7. open blue and red valves on gauge manifold
8. verify vacuum reading on gauges
9. let vacuum run for 1-2 hours
10. close gauge manifold valves
11. turn off vacuum pump
12. let vacuum sit for 1 hour to verify no leaks

refill refrigerant (assumes gauges still connected from vacuum process)
1. connect adapter to refrigerant can
2. connect yellow manifold line to adapter on refrigerant can
3. screw adapter down to open refrigerant can
4. press schrader valve on yellow manifold connection to purge air (or crack yellow hose connection at manifold)
5. open blue valve on gauge manifold
6. start truck, turn on AC with fan on high and recirc on, all windows open
7. wait for AC to kick on (front of compressor should be spinning), monitor low and high side pressure on gauges
8. turn can upside down to shake out refrigerant, use sight glass to verify (shake can to hear/feel if it still has refrigerant)
9. close blue gauge manifold valve when can is empty
10. close can adapter and remove yellow manifold line from adapter on empty can (yellow line has schrader valve and will not let air in)
11. connect adapter to new refrigerant can, connect yellow manifold line to adapter, open can with adapter screw
12. open blue valve on gauge manifold
13. close blue gauge manifold valve when can is empty (repeat steps 10-12 until 21-36psi low-side pressure, 199-236psi high-side pressure)
14. close red line valve and remove connection
15. close blue line valve and remove connection
16. screw caps back on AC line fittings

 

Got some installs done.
Chrome delete but not all. Use AJT stuff which requires a lot of butchering to underside since their stuff doesn't fit.
Installed Phoenix 13" Android 13 display. Trying to sort out customizing next. Pretty cool unit. Come with zero instructions so you need to search out information.
Cell phone mount. Repurposed old Joy Factory tablet holder by taking skill saw to it to get phone width. Mounting in front of 4x4 knob will work fine.

 

Be advised, that when you are at your wit's end searching for the rear 3rd member nuts, check your deep well socket for the 5 missing ones and save some headache.


Rear diff and one side is reassembled after getting the gears redone by ZUK:


Everything looking good after his install, and a good cryo & REM treatment from Ayers Gears in Phoenix.

You can read the install and see how bad the diffs were set up from the last shop:
http://www.gearinstalls.com/Fergie14tundra529.htm