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New Steering rack, harder to turn left than right..? Wait, there's more!

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Randal Scott, May 16, 2025 at 5:13 PM.

  1. May 16, 2025 at 5:13 PM
    #1
    Randal Scott

    Randal Scott [OP] New Member

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    Hey Folks,

    The super short version is this: after replacing the steering rack it's now harder to turn left than right. Why?


    2004 Tundra SR5 477,000 miles. Yes, 477,000!

    So, I had the Steering Rack replaced on Tuesday and as I was leaving the shop I immediately noticed it was harder to turn left than right. Turning right feels normal, but turning left is noticeably harder AND the more you turn, the harder it gets. I went back today and they looked at it, and didn't see anything obviously wrong. The mechanics also couldn't feel the difference during a test drive, but it's definitely there.

    Then, yesterday I had Toyota do an alignment, and I immediately noticed the truck now pulls to the Right! It was fine before, but post-rack replacement it's now worse.

    I understand there's a 'breaking in period' with the rack, and everything else is normal; tire pressure, power steering fluid, etc. They suggested it's *possible* its just a bad rack and are willing to replace it if it is(but suggested I drive it for a week or two to see if it evens out) but in the meantime, does anyone have any thoughts or ideas about what the issue might be? Anyone else have this issue? Why would it be harder to turn left than right? And, is that what's causing the alignment to pull to the right? Is there a connection?

    I really appreciate your thoughts on this!
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2025 at 6:45 AM
  2. May 16, 2025 at 6:52 PM
    #2
    shifty`

    shifty` Animals and insects don't do drugs

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  3. May 16, 2025 at 6:55 PM
    #3
    Fragman

    Fragman New Member

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    It's a custom steering rack designed specifically for UPS and FedEx?

    Sorry for the somewhat unhelpful answer, but I couldn't resist this one.
     
  4. May 17, 2025 at 6:50 AM
    #4
    Randal Scott

    Randal Scott [OP] New Member

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    You found more than I did when I searched, so thanks!
     
  5. May 17, 2025 at 7:53 AM
    #5
    shifty`

    shifty` Animals and insects don't do drugs

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    I know there was another case on here that is tickling the corner of my brain, but I'm coming up empty. Maybe it'll ring a bell for someone else.

    My take though, if the truck isn't "whole" again after leaving the mechanic, i.e. it seems worse off than when you brought it in, and there's a clear issue, it's up to the shop to diagnose and fix that issue. And the fact they only suggested a solution but haven't acted is a bit perplexing to me.
     
  6. May 17, 2025 at 8:21 AM
    #6
    Randal Scott

    Randal Scott [OP] New Member

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    Yes absolutely, and the shop is willing to order a new Rack and replace the whole thing if it comes to that. I feel pretty confident ultimately they'll step up. The problem is they simply don't know what the problem is, and it seems a leap to assume its a bad rack. And then the alignment issue?? Honestly, my experience is that folks like yourself and other Tundra diehards who frequent this forum tend to be far more knowledge about our trucks than most people, most mechanics, even, so I ask hoping to get some insight or answers.
     
  7. May 17, 2025 at 8:25 AM
    #7
    shifty`

    shifty` Animals and insects don't do drugs

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    (see signature for truck info)
    It could be explained by a few things. I think a couple are covered in that post. Like, not properly priming the rack, not purging all air out of the system (turning lock to lock with engine running and both front wheels off ground), bad rack bushings OR not properly securing the rack centered. Damaging (bending or other) either tie rod end (inner or outer, on either side). Not centering the rack before attaching the intermediate/steering shaft. Not installing the tie rods equally on the left or right side.

    I'd have expected Toyota to notice if the latter was true, but you can also measure length of the threads to the eyelet on both sides. As long as you're within 1-3threads (1/8" - 1/16") showing between each side I doubt it's the issue.

    EDIT: There is a process for virtually all the above things I listed off. Usually the rack will come with priming/centering instructions, and different vendors may have different processes. With some hydraulic parts (brake MC, rack) bench-priming is required or suggested.
     

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