FGT AccessCab: Amount of Kilmat all 4 doors?

FGT AC: Amount of Kilmat [or Siless] all 4 doors?
Since I didnt beat my repaint shop at re-install of bk seat, will try to maximize my door coverage to compensate. If needed, I add backwall later...
Adding new JBL Club speakers install, but want to Kilmat doors First, then rebond door 'moisture cover' plastic, then connect speaks, x-overs etc.- i think thats the order..?
AMOUNT: My guess is amount of Kilmat / door is limited to whatever is arm/hand accesible: 20" square?

Any advice appreciated.
Thx, ps.

 

A square foot or so per panel is probably enough. 20" square will be great.

 

Yeah, just know, you DO NOT need to do this. You'll get more benefit from slapping a fat sheet on the inside of the outer door skin will provide good reduction.

What you see here is overkill.

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That pic, isnt that mis-placed?
Isnt the idea to place on inner surface of [metal surface] door?

Also, @Shifty , youre saying cover parts of the inside surface of plastic door panel?

 

The inner surface of the outside skin of the door is what you want to place your sound deadening piece on. Then many will place a piece over the speaker opening and cut out the speaker mounting hole. Any additional adds weight with less benefit.

 

I get it...browsing, found this.
https://www.cx50forums.com/attachments/20230313_131227-jpg.1050/
Seems reasonable...

this looks reaonable as well


this doesnt

 

Still not the primary target zone

 

Hell, you don't even have to leave Tundras.com to find conflicting and/or pros/cons of doing it only here and only there.

How much sound deadening for doors? (Inside & out?) | Toyota Tundra Forum

Sound Deadening | Toyota Tundra Forum

 

Yeah, i know. Its definitely an infinite argument, like Whats Jimi Hendrix best cut ever? or Which is best scene fr/KillBill(s)?
One thread posted said: Its not really doing 'sound deadening' as much as it is 'reducing resonance' [echo].

...I just dont want to build a 'Faraday Cage'.
Its almost comical...some guys definitely from the "...if some works well, then a lot more is best" universe.
Im definitely a minimalist.

 

The sole purpose of sound deadener is to add weight to panels, making the panel harder to vibrate.

You'll get more benefit from adding weight to large, open spans of door panel than you will covering the entire door panel as shown in that example picture above. If that person ever needs to do maintenance inside the door, they're going to be kicking themselves. And if you're not planning on competing in IASCA, you don't need that level of bullshittery.

This is overkill.

This is normal.

Take another example from my rear door, ignore the measurements, this is satisfactory and does the job. Where your door has substantial structure (bends etc.), it won't be as prone to vibration. Stick to the larger open spaces to stick your sheets.

I could've used some behind the plastic sheet in the door here, but notice I've got it on the open panels here, and also put it on the outer door skin above/below the supports, big slabs. The outer door skin has much less structure. You want to stop that from vibrating sound into the truck.

Max 40-50% coverage is fine. 60%+ is overkill.

 

And sound deadening mat is not insulation. It does not have great sound insulator properties. It adds weight like @shifty` said to reduce vibrations that interfere with your stereos reproduction and add unwanted noise in the cab.

 

thx @KNABORES .
Elaborate please.

oops, u [& shifty] beat me to it. thx.

 

@shifty` pic shows some SD material on the inner door frame, that's the rigid, less vibrate-y part. Inside that hollow cavity space past that part where the front door window rolls down into is the area that we need to address. Add SD material to the inner surface of the outer door skin past the window mechanism. pretend you're putting it on the outside painted panel of the door, but from the inside. Make sense?

 

Too much...theory then should be any surface with large enough span size to act like a snare drum skin...

 

makes Too much sense...
theory should then be any surface with large enough span size to act like a snare drum skin...

 

EXACTLY.

Note on my rear door above, the interior door skin has tons of bends in it, the only place I bother with sheets on that part of the door is any place that has more than, say, a 2x2 flat area with no backing. I'll run around tapping everything and if the panel sounds hollow and tinny, it gets a slab of deadener.

Say this was our door. The red X's are going to be my primary target. The blue X's are going to be my secondary targets behind the door panel, the flatter they are, the higher of a target they are. But you really want slabs on the inside of the outer door skin where the red X's are.

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And I would just add, I *do* have slabs of material on the outer door skin where you see these blue boxes on my rear door. That's a horizontal steel brace welded into the outer door skin, just inside that speaker opening, so no point in applying anything to that, it's rigid and heavy as hell.

Had I not been lazy, I'd have done myself a favor to put a slab where the red box is showing here, but I think it was wintertime when I took this pic, and the tar sealant was hard as a rock, it's a pain in the ass to peel back when it's like this.

You should be able to notice an audible difference tapping the panel with a fingernail before/after. It should go from a high-pitch tip tip tip tip sound to a tup tup tup tup.

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It makes sense to dampen any ‘tinny’ areas of the door that speakers could vibrate. What about actual sound deadening for reduced road noise / quieter cabin?

 

Define "actual sound deadening". There are several types of "sound deadening" material on the market. Foams, tar-based sheets as pictured above, MLV, etc.

Drone/road noise is a byproduct of noise transmission through your panels, and airgaps between you and the outside world. To minimize all noise, you'd need to hermetically seal all your doors and windows.

Sadly, as I see you have an AC just like me, your rear door, specifically the rubber seal at the top/rear corner of the back window, and the rear window seals themselves which both allow a shitload of noise into the truck ... noise into the cab is never going to be resolved for either of us.

The rear doors of our AC trucks is a boon to introducing ample outside noise, and I've yet to see a concrete solution to the problem that won't prematurely break the rear window latches, or potentially introduce rainwater leak hazards.