Installation Questions about OEM Sway Bar Bushing & SuspensionMaxx End Link Replacement

I've got some questions about stabilizer bar bushing replacement for those who have previously replaced their bushings and/or installed SuspensionMaxx stock length end links.

Stabilizer Bar Bushing Replacement:

1) Is it easier to access and remove the sway bar bracket and old bushings while lifted or from the ground? I was thinking that maybe lifted would be better but thought I would see what others have found to work best when replacing the stabilizer bushings. Sometimes the access and view from below is better when jacked and on stands [hanging].

2) The 2004 FSM doesn't say anything about using rubber grease [TMC P/N 08887-01206] on the OEM rubber bushings for installation and/or removal. Would this be recommended? Has anyone tried using this before or is it simply not needed or inadvisable to use this grease for this specific application?

OEM Stabilizer End Link Removal and Installation and Replacement with SuspensionMaxx Stock Links [SMX-122260T]:

1) My first question is: What is the likelihood that I will have to cut off the bottom of the swaybar end link at the ball joint in order to remove the OEM end link? I have been fortunate thus far in removing rotating ball joints by holding with Vice-Grips while removing the nut [e.g. OTR removal]. However, I have seen where some members, @jerryallday, resorted to cutting their end links to get them off. In its lifetime, my Tundra has been primarily housed in non-coastal areas of TN, NC and TX, so rust is not a major issue. BTW, the right end link is already broken and looks like this.

Any tips or tricks or tricks in holding and connecting the lower stud/ball joint? In keeping the stud parallel to the ground during installation?



2) If I need a cutting tool as a backup, what tool is recommended for this application as well as best overall general use for 1st Gen Tundra maintenance and repair only. I don't own a single power tool, air compressor, or rotary tool. I do have a MAP torch and fuel. All my tools, parts, supplies and equipment were purchased simply to work on the Tundra. This first cutting tool needs to go a long ways. Money is tight after health issues. I don't mind paying extra for better tools but must be selective where it matters.

3) For those who have previously installed the Maxx end links, did you start assembly while lifted for ease of access and then perform the final tightening and torque on the ground? Also, did you start with attaching the long bolt nut [9/16-in] with bushings to the sway bar first then , secondly, insert the stud into the LCA bolt hole with the 19-mm nut?

4) Some members mentioned using the Capri 15mm thin wrench for installing the SuspensionMaxx end links. Is this to simply hold the bottom bolt head while tightening the 9/16-in nut for setting the bushing compression? I have one in hand since others mentioned it in previous posts as being essential. Any installation tips would seem important.

5) Does anyone know the proper torque value for the 19-mm stud nut for the Stock Length End Links [SMX-122260T]? There is a typo in the instructions that double lists the extended sway bar link part numbers and doesn't show the torque value for the stock length links. I saw someone mention 40 ft-lbs in a post and nobody corrected them so was hoping for some clarification on proper torque value for stock.



6) Any other suggestions are welcome and appreciated.

 

Do one side at a time. Really two options. Either remove the bottom nut, then jack up until there's no tension on the link and pop it out, then hold it and remove the top, or jack to remove tension, and remove the top nut, then do the bottom. But use a jack to your advantage here to get the LCA at an optimal height and release tension on the link.

I only grease poly bushings. But don't listen to me, you do you.

Link is attached to LCA, not the LBJ. I don't understand the question. I've never had too many problems busting a nut.

??? we aren't touching the lower ball joints

I followed the exact instructions they gave in the box, like a good soldier. The only thing I saw missing that's in your best interest is: Grease the bushings with a polyurethane-safe grease, as you should do with ALL poly bushings where they contact metal, and keep the lower cam parallel to the ground. Their biggest thing, as it should be, is to not over-torque the bushings so they're bulging, it'll kill poly bushings faster than anything.

The nut on the bottom cam has very little head surface to grab onto. If you've ever worked on bikes and have Park Tool's cone wrench set, those work perfectly. Any low-profile wrench like that is fine.

If there's a typo in the instructions, ask the manufacturer. They were very responsive with me when I called to order replacement bushings. Even sent me a free hat. Call them, let them know about the typo, and ask them what the correct value is to use with their part.

But given they use the exact same cam, I suspect they're both 60ftlb.

Also note: If you go to Google and type in SMX-122260T install instructions, you may get a more-recent digital copy at Summit Racing or other websites. Typically huge vendors like Summit and Crutchfield will have digital copies of manufacturer install sheets for their customers posted online. Try it.

Stop overthinking things.

 

At least you have an excust, for me, I think it's just getting old. And this damn autoimmune disorder I've got that gives me wicked brainfog. I'm a bit of a tree junkie, and was trying to tell our youngest kid to pick up leaves in the yard earlier, and I couldn't remember the name of the tree. "MAGNOLIA". Took me a good 2-3 minutes. Recall is a bitch sometimes. It's worst with names and proper nouns.

Here's my take on the top vs. bottom: It's probably easier to screw the top nut on with the pre-lubed bushings installed, at least until the threads are flush with the nut, just to hold it in place. Then raise/lower the LCA to the point the bottom cam slides in. Tighten that down until it's snug plus a half turn, while holding the cam flat, where the bottom of the cam is parallel to the ground. And believe me, when you get the nut tight that cam is going to try spinning on you. Then once you set it down, snug it up.

A couple of things to point out, taking this directly from their install sheet.

First off, this is why you need a slim wrench. That's the head you've got to hold while you tighten the top nut. A standard wrench isn't fitting on that. Cone wrench was perfect for me.

​

Second, and big reason why I think it's wrong to tighten up the top nut until you get to their snugness chart. As far as the bushings are concerned, they don't give a shit about torque specs. They care that (A) you use poly-safe lube on them where they'll touch metal and (B) you don't over-compress them. If you do tighten the top nut until the bushings are perfectly compressed - which is so close to a totally vertical, non-bulging wall it's not funny - then you drop the truck, guess what the weight of the LCA pushing the link up into the top washer is gonna do? SMOOSH YOUR BUSH.

Really, I had two key takeaways when installing mine: (1) Bottom cam needs to stay parallel to the ground as you see in the pic above, so you're not forcing the bottom-most bushing to compress unevently, and (2) follow the bushing compression guide, notice the 2nd from bottom one, the walls are flared/wider at the bottom - they need to be snug enough the link doesn't rattle, but not compressed so much it either (a) flares at top or bottom or (b) it bulges at the side; the former will result in clanks and noises, the latter will result in eating up your bushings.

​