2014 Tundra Platinum Steering Wheel Shake Violently When Braking at 70 MPH

I'll try to make this as short as possible. Had a 2014 Tundra Platinum that I use for work. I put a 10 inch lift and 37 inch tires. Don't ever lift your truck, it runs like GARBAGE!!! Steering wheel shake during braking so I had them install new Toyota front rotors with the USED brake pads while the lift was being installed. Ran it for like 30K miles with ZERO issues and then got tired of pumping gas EVERY OTHER DAY with the poor performance in acceleration and horrible braking distance from the lift. So I got rid of it and bought another 2014 Tundra Platinum with steering wheel shaking violently when braking. Installed new Toyota rotors with the USED brake pads. A lot of people are saying new rotors and brake pads are required but I've never had an issue using used brake pads with new rotors. Anyways, it ran smoothly until about 7K miles in and the steering wheel shakes when braking at 65+ MPH. A few folks mentioned using drilled rotors so I bought some drilled rotors with new brake pads from the drilled rotor company. It wasn't expensive, like $200 for the rotors and pads set. It ran very smooth until about 7K miles again and the steering wheel shakes violently more and more when braking at 65+ MPH. I'm pretty sure my front shocks are bad but could it be the shocks? Or maybe the hub that the rotors mount on? This is so annoying because the rotors don't even last an oil change! Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

- Measure your rotor run out
https://youtu.be/RdTK7Lvxflo?si=yfR_XEm1bsOcP0uJ
- Tundra run our should not exceed 0.05mm or 0.002 inch
- If you have excessive run out, that means usually you have worn out bushings or tires/wheels out of balance.
- if you do not have excessive run outs, check the calipers, the calipers may be dirty or the pads can't slide smoothly when the brakes are applied.

Always clean the hub surface when installing rotors.

 

no, that shaking in the wheel you're feeling is the fact that your front rotors are warped. If you feel the shaking in the brake pedal or seat, its the rear rotors. Sounds like you are either too hard on your brakes or hitting too much water (car wash?) when they're hot causing them to warp. You could try drilled and slotted rotors from power stop to see if they'll stay more cool; also change the pads at the same time

 

Use cryogenic rotors and make sure you properly bed in the brakes. Tundras are heavy, if you do alot of driving at elevation make sure you engine brake. That's how I warped mine first time. Also unbalanced tires would contribute to shake also.

 

whatre cryogenic rotors?

+1 for burning in the pads and rotors, we do this on every car that comes through the shop for a brake job

 

Frozen rotors, cryogenically treated to extremely cold temperatures. Makes them very durable. Love mine, very good bite.

 

Bad rotors

 

While not on my tundra I had A terrible issue with shaking when braking on my beater equinox. Replaced rotors, brakes etc. did not go away. Lives w it for a while then my front bearing really got loud. Replaced them. Went away completely.

So it's not always the rotors themselves. Other things can be loose and give vibration or pulsation in my experience.

 

Thanks everyone! I'll check to see if the bearings are bad or any of the tie rods are bad over the weekend. If the bearings and tie rods seem fine, then I'll purchase the dial indicator to check the run out. What I don't understand is why my lifted Tundra had zero issues with the steering wheel shaking when applying the brakes, while this Tundra has the steering wheel shaking after 7K miles after installing new rotors, twice!

 

It is very weird that it seems to happen around 7000 miles or so. I would ask how often do you need to brake at 65mph and how hard are you applying the brakes when you are? I have the same year truck and have never had this issue fortunately, but I am a firm believer that driving styles have a lot to do with braking issues that seem to be a frequent issue. I have yet to replace rotors on most of my vehicles more than once honestly. Rotors should last quite a few miles without needing replaced so often as what you are describing.

 

As mentioned, it can be different things. Brake calipers, pads stuck in caliper, wheel bearing, rust on the hub should be removed and flat before installing rotor, front end steering and suspension checked, rotors. Many use the drilled and slotted rotors, I've been using slotted only, EBC on fronts have been great, on my 3rd set of pads no issues..

 

When I'm traveling on the freeway, I always go 70 MPH. As I'm going 70 MPH, a car might cut me off or a car in front of me slamming on their brakes making me slam on my brakes which is when the steering wheel starts shaking. This is after something like 7K miles after replacing new rotors. Once new rotors are on, there are zero issues with braking and zero issues with steering wheel shaking when I slam on the brakes at 70 MPH. Like I said, on my previous Tundra with the same year never had an issue with steering wheel shaking once the rotors were replaced, even after 30K miles. This Tundra, the rotors were replaced twice already and about to do it the third time but I know it will shake again once it gets near 7K miles.

 

Again, like I stated above; your rotors are warped… trying going a different direction than oem rotors, maybe a heavy duty rotor meant for towing with NEW ceramic pads.

doesn’t hurt to double check bearings, calipers and tie rods but the symptoms you’re telling me, it’s 9/10 times rotors

 

Like others are saying that it definitely sounds like it is the rotors are the issue. I would look to see if there are ones that may be more heavy duty and see if you can get more miles out of them and then in the long term would actually save you money and time. Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

For sure I know it's the rotors but what drives me crazy is, I had another Tundra same year, same trim, same everything but had ZERO issues with the rotors warping, even after 30K miles with new rotors installed. Again, steering wheel only shakes when appying the brakes at 70 MPH after 7K miles of installing new rotors. Wheel bearings are solid with no issues when I jacked the Tundra up and tried to wiggle it. The wheels does wiggle at all.

 

It’s not an apples to apples comparison.
Just cause the trucks are identical doesn’t mean your experiences will be.

maybe you drove through water after braking hard and warped them, or went through a car wash etc etc

 

Then everyone would be braking hard in the rain every now and then

 

But why would the steering wheel shake when braking at 70 MPH but when braking at 60 MPH, the steering wheel doesn't shake at all? Braking at 70+ MPH makes the steering wheel shake badly, braking at 65 MPH makes the steering shake but not that bad and braking at 60 MPH, the steering wheel doesn't shake at all. Right now, I'm just thinking about buying a pair of cheap rotors for $50 and replacing them every oil change or every 2 oil changes, depending on how bad the steering wheel shakes. The $50 pair of rotors have a 4.5 star rating on Amazon also.

 

Take the brakes off and you won't get the vibration anymore

 

Are these the ones that you have?

https://dirtydeedsindustries.com/st...e-brake-bundle-ebc-yellowstuff--frozen-rotors

 

I didn't get that kit but I got those rotors directly from frozen rotors when they had a sale.

 

I bought these today.

https://frozenrotors.com/front-froz...d-brake-rotor-and-pad-kit-2356s-589y-kit.html

https://frozenrotors.com/rear-froze...d-brake-rotor-and-pad-kit-2357s-590y-kit.html

 

Nice. I stuck with the stock pads for dust and they have some decent bite. I didn't get frozen rotors for the rear since they aren't warped. I'll probably upgrade those rears when they wear.

 

Yeah I just did the OCD thing and ordered both. Expensive but not near as expensive as my suspension that I am waiting to arrive.

 

It'll definitely feel way better with all 4