General Supercharger Thread

Make us a better option for the front of our pigs

 

I did, the thread is called "DIY trans cooler for $300"

 

LOL the people want billet bro it's the new thing like AI

 

I just want to upgrade my stock cooler lol

 

Hahahaha

 

I finally got the pistons knocked out. Three of them wouldn't rotate past the residue, but using a red scotch brite with a lite touch I was able to clean them up and knock them out as well. The crank spins smoothly and the rod journals look great. There doesn't appear to be any cylinder wall damage. I've got some honing oil on the way and will use a flex hone to clean up the cylinders so the new rings will seat properly, but I think I'll be able to use this block without sleeving.

After I flex hone it, I will measure the bores with my dial bore gauge set and that will tell me if the bores need any machine work. I know they can't be bored out, but I've had success previously on a 1GRFE and a light hone and they have the same liner thickness. I will take the block and heads to a shop anyways as I'm putting in main studs and larger valves that will require a line hone on the mains and enlarging the valve seats.

 

Fingers are crossed!! Great progress and keep it up!!

 

Almost forgot, I received the 8HP90 on Tuesday, and the CANTCU was delivered today. I'm still waiting on Domiworks adapter and cantcu/8hp harness shipping, and I'll need to find another source for the shifter as Toyota said it's not in stock and they have no date estimate. I'll probably pick up a used one off eBay if I can find it.

 

That's a huge b!tch!!! She goin' fly!!

 

The aftermarket sells multiple overbore sizes, so someone has found that over boring can work.

 

Thank you, that's great news!

 

8HP to 1350 adapter and bolts, a little billet bling for @reywcms

https://www.bouchillonperformance.com/inc/sdetail/18921

 

That is good to hear. I was just going by the lextreme tear down from years ago. Plus most want a 6.0 or 6.8.

 

What's the most cost effective (budget) way to rebuild a not-blown motor?

I'd like to get the original motor done so I can use it now & then do the go crazy later on the 70k smoking motor.

 

I'd say forged pistons and rods, head gasket and head studs would be minimum, bearings if needed. Pistons and rods to handle the power, HG and studs to keep the heads in place when cranking the boost.

 

Does anyone have pictures of the ECU out of the truck and the gasket/mount removed? I'm planning on making a mount for the Boomslang harness adapter that will mount to the firewall in the stock ECU location, so from the engine bay it looks like the stock connections instead of a rats nest of wiring...

 

The ECU side or firewall?

 

Thank you! Does the ECU fasten to the outer metal piece, or is it all one piece?

 

Here is front
4 screws.

 

It has some semi tacky white fipg but could be slide out of the housing. The male plug portion has the white goop holding it in too.

 

Thank you both, that helps! I should be able to come up with an adapter to get the harness to screw to that. The harness has a channel around the part the stock engine plugs go into, but no screws, so I'll have to make a metal adapter that fits into the channel and attaches to another outer panel that screws to the firewall...fun times. Once I get that worked out, next hurdle will be mounting the stock ECU behind the dash...somewhere.

 

Here's what I'm thinking...inner will be two piece so that it can slide into the channels and held in place by screwing to the outer panel, the outer will fasten to the firewall...not to scale

 

I verified that the SCOL coupler is the same thickness as the Harrop stock coupler (much tighter fit than stock), and opened up and smoothed out the snout a little bit around the throttle body mounting flange so the 103mm matches up with the snout.

 

Oh man, that'll aide in longer smiles, for sure!!

 

Any damage to the stock Harrop coupler?

I hope those firecrackers make it into a video showcasing engine upgrades.

 

There was a little play in the coupler, like the holes were loose, was easy to remove, but no noticeable damage though. It's a hard plastic piece, no spring like the one I had on my Tacoma's TRD SC.

 

Coupler did NOT solve the knocking sound. Starts and idles for about a minute before the knocking starts. Video of sound is below.

https://youtu.be/y4cm_ln_lpk

 

Well shit. That annoying wondering if it’s rotor play bearing issue.

 

I was leaning that way as well, I've emailed Harrop support and linked the video...we'll see what they say.