4hi error

A big "thank you" to the posts on this forum (and an old Ford forum for Explorer Sports that gave me further insight). My 2015 Tundra (with Borg Warner transfer case) has had a difficult time coming out of 4lo for years. It got to the point that I avoided using 4lo except when absolutely necessary. Finally, I pulled off my shift motor and figured I'd find corrosion or something else obvious. I found nothing obviously wrong and hooked it all back up and now my truck had 4lo/4hi light flashing on the dash. I took it to a shop and they said the motor was bad and that Toyota wants $1,700 for just the part!!! I found some on sale at dealers for about $1,400, and a few used ones in the $1,100 range, neither of which was overly appealing. I booked an appointment at the dealer for this coming Monday, and today decided to take one last crack at it. I discovered that I'd incorrectly installed the magnets (I'd left the wire for each magnet hooked through the slot on each metal holder, thus keeping the magnets from engaging - this I corrected by tying them back with dental floss, installing the windings in the housing, then cut the dental floss and removed it). The Ford forum encouraged me to crack into the grey plastic housing where the main cluster of wires go in, that is located under the gear that turns the tab that connects to the transfer case. I had to partially break a plastic ring to pull it off, but by this point I was ready to concede defeat and buy a new motor. The wires going into this housing connect to some metal tabs that touch a metal disc that has a "circuit board" printed on it, which rotates when shifting the transfer case, and indicate if the truck is in 2wd, 4hi or 4lo. The circuit board showed dark wear marks there the pronged tabs had rubbed, and there was a fair amount of black corrosion or dust from where the tabs had repeatedly rubbed on the circuit board, particularly in one area where I guess it mostly moves when going from 2wd to 4hi, which I do often. I cleaned and sanded (1200 grit) the board and reinstalled it. Despite the partially broken plastic retainer ring, it seemed to seat tightly, and I reinforced with a little bit of super glue (not sure this will work longterm, but made me feel better). After a trip to the parts store to buy another o-ring (as mentioned above) as the mechanic must have lost the one I bought a few weeks ago, I reinstalled the motor and everything works! No lights! I'm a little skeptical that it will be a long-term fix, but I'm hopeful that it will work until I have a few more bucks in my pocket. Wishing I had figured out how to crack into the "circuit board" disc without damaging the housing.