Air NOT blowing into cab

Valley?

The whole radiator looks pretty new, cap too. Not OEM tho. Something one of my 2UZ-FE friends noticed/mentioned was that he wouldn’t fux with a not-OEM radiator cap, even on an aftermarket radiator. On my ‘09 Outback 2.5 a cracked radiator cap was causing me very similar issues with my AC one summer. I’ll get a new one ASAP. And a new overflow tank. I drive past a stealership daily.

 

The valley is the area under the intake manifold, where it's possible to have a coolant leak that's somewhat hard to identify.

 

Is it just called “the valley?”

 

On a V shaped engine, the valley is the area OK the block between the two heads. You can look up "valley plate" for images.

 

Ordered a new rad cap. We’ll see if that changes anything. Thermostat after that if not.

 

new radiator cap didn't change anything so I think I'll give the thermostat a shot. Any tips I should know? Seems pretty straightforward. Do I need new housing or gasket?

 

If you're truck isn't overheating and your temp gauge comes to the middle, replacing the thermostat isn't going to help with your issue.

 

It does get up to temp, but occasionally when I am at a stop light, it creeps all the way up to H and then goes back to the middle after I start moving again.

 

That's what you'd expect if there's a lot of air in the system.

Previously you had said something about having a coolant leak, were you able to locate that leak and repair it?

 

Does that mean I should rule out the thermostat for now?

Would air in the system be indicative of a leak somewhere? I’ll order a new reservoir/overflow tank and see if that does anything.

I know nothing about coolant systems so thanks for answering all my questions (in the HVAC thread).

 

Quit trying to throw parts at your truck before you figure out what's wrong!

If the truck is cold after sitting overnight, open the radiator cap and there should be coolant all the way to the top and the overflow tank should have a coolant level as indicated by the marks in the plastic.

If you're low on coolant, try topping off the radiator first and see if that helps. If you're losing coolant, you need to figure out why. If there's pink liquid or pink crust anywhere on the engine, that is indicative of leaking coolant. There are pressure testing devices that you can use to apply some pressure to the system to force it to leak.

 

Ahh! That’s just what I do! ¯\_(°~°)_/¯ I have a two- and a four-year-old and more money than time right now. The time I spent diagnosing could be time spend fixing instead.

Yes, there is some spray in the engine bay near the overflow tank. I’ve filled it a couple times and by the end of the day it has about an inch left in the bottom.

I’ll do what you said tomorrow morning.

 

I have a 4 and a 6 month, don't let the zap too much brain power!

If the overflow is spraying out coolant, I would buy the tester for exhaust gasses in the coolant. You may be looking at a head gasket issue, and the sooner you know the better.

 

Oh come on, don’t tell me that.

 

You really need to know before doing more diagnosis:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ota-tundra?q=gas+combustion+leak+tester&pos=0

Or you need to be extra sure you don't have pink cooling gushing out somewhere other than the radiator overflow tank.

 

water pump was dying a slow death and gave up the ghost last night. new TB/WP today. looking at around $1300 probably.

cryemoji.jpg

 

New TB???

 

Yeah. They both had 70K on ‘em so I figured I might as well do both while he’s got it all open.

 

Throttle body?

 

Timing belt.

 

Ah, yes, the 4.7!

 

Trusty!

 

@BenAZ Hey bud what were your symptoms exactly? In 1st youtube video the guy shows that his truck dosent have air out except for the floor and defrost. In my case I have air coming with all settings, except the heater is not working on the drivers side only (vent and floor)..It throws cold air on this side...While it is working on the passenger side both on the vent and floor with hot air.

Is that the issue you had. Trying to figure out if I need to do something on the passenger side or have to replace the whole unit on the drivers side. Its a pita to get to.. so trying to narrow down the t-shooting.

Thanks

 

I only had air on defrost the first time. When I went under the dash to remove and re-time the motors, I found out that a clip on the wiring harness that holds the connector onto the motor had gotten broken from a previous "repair" attempt and that bad connection was what led my motors to jump time.

 

@BenAZ So you had to replace the motor servo to get it fixed? I am assuming that the clip was broken one of the servos?

 

three+ years later, i resolved my air issue. it was the damper servo sub assembly. it took a few tries, but i replaced the $120 part and i have AC everywhere now! wish i figured this out four years ago but i'm so glad i didn't drop $2K