Build Thread: 2006 Toyota Tundra Double Cab

Yes, 43430-0C010 for new-OEM, 43430-0C010-84 for reman-OEM.

That's one of the parts I wouldn't accept aftermarket parts on. OEM is far more bulletproof. We have a few dudes on here that've run and repeatedly replaced NAPA and Duralast on here that can likely chime in. 2-3 years seems to be the norm. Of course, the dealership doesn't give a fuck about that, it's repeat business. But yeah, it appears the non-reman are still on backorder. Here's what my local dealer says about it:

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It figures. OK that part I listed, 43430-0C010, that'll "fix all my future cv axle needs?"

If so, could I order that now, stock it away in my garage, and when the Duralast stops lasting, put that on?

 

New questions:

About to do an oil change. (One fluid change I didn't have the shop do). The aluminum washer, is the local auto parts store likely to have that?

Also, my truck has 201,000 miles. Should I go for regular oil or "high mileage" oil? I have no idea if it uses oil or not.

 

The drain bolt washer, not sure if LAPS will have it. I usually change mine every 2nd-3rd oil change before wising up and getting the Votex easy-drain kit for simpler oil changes. You can probably skate for now, buy a half dozen later. They're usually onlky 60-70¢/ea.

This is the part for your '06: https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/gasket-9043012031

High-mileage oil is a good option for the seal conditioners and whatnot that's included in their additive packages. It's effectively similar to what is included in AT-205. It's not about whether or not it "uses oil or not". You have 15-20 year old rubber seals in your truck; they'll benefit from the conditioners in the additive package of high-mile/older-vehicle oils. Chances are, with your higher miles, if it had regular oil changes, your seals look better than the seals in my 82k-original-mile truck, simply because oil was more-regularly passing through/in/around the seals inside your engine twice as often/long as mine.

 

Well good, thanks. I bought "high mileage" oil last night.

I have the Valvomax System on three other vehicles and so far, seems to be working fine. I won't get it in time to put it onto the Tundra but next oil change I will.

Here's why the Valvomax Oil Drain Valve bests the competition!

 

I looked at that product, and opted for the Votex unit. They're similar, the Votex is lower-profile. Both are made in USA, IIRC.

 

Pics of the Votex if it's interesting: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2218#post-3784308

 

Thanks. I'll give the Valvomax a try since I've already ordered it. I think it'll clear fine as the skid plate doesn't seem to go back that far????

Anyway. Got the oil change done. Previous "mechanic" the owner had.....I think he's replaced the skid plate bolts as these are bright silver in color (zinc?) and there are only four, not six. Needed a 15 inch long, 1/2 inch drive breaker bar to get the oil drain plug out. SMH!

Oil drain plug had its own hand made(?) copper washer that had form-fitted to the bolt. I didn't think I'd get it off! Geeze Louise!

Proper aluminum gasket on, new filter (filter came off without a filter wrench, shocking), and oil change done.

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Gonna rain for the next couple of days....nothing planned for the Tundra.

 

Wife drove the Tundra today. She really likes it.

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Parking brake.....is it normal that thing has to go all the way down before it actually grabs the drum?

 

Mine starts to catch somewhere between 1/3 - 1/2 way.

 

OK, so not normal. May have to take back to the shop and see just why they didn't fix that when I requested it, in writing no less.

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Major news today although not very exciting. Moved all the gear from the "old work truck" to the "new work truck," which is the Tundra.

We expect to have it in action Sunday, pulling the mowing trailer.

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Next goal is to outfit it with a bed cover since we carry certain tools too heavy (and oily) to go into the cab.

 

Bought a 2 axle landscaping trailer today, 7' x 18'. Comes with trailer brakes. How do I go about putting a brake controller onto my Tundra?

 

I found that information by reading my Owners Manual. I know, who the fuck reads the Owner's Manual, right?

It's on page 395 for 2006. And before you ask, you can download it directly from Toyota. Google will lead the way.

 

You really want me to go outside again, in this cold and drizzle don't you?

Let's see what that book has to offer.....hhmmm.

I'll have to look in the glove box but I don't think I have this "sub wire harness."

Thanks though, this is at least something.

Can anyone recommend a good brake controller? Is there a video on Youtube?

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How's this video? 2005 is almost a 2006.....so.....

Tundra Brake Controller Wiring Harness Adapter Installation. 7 Pin Pre-Wired How To - YouTube

 

Search this specific subforum for the word REDARC.

 

OK, is this the "sub wire harness" I'll need?

Brake Controller Wire Harness Plug For 2003-2021 2022 2023 2024 Toyota Sequoia | eBay

I'll look again but I am nearly 100% sure there is nothing of the kind in the glove box. According to the DMV I'm the 7th owner of this truck......

 

Tekonsha P3 is very well reviewed. Liberty Redarc has the best form and ease of setup.

 

Thanks, now I have something to go on.

I didn't think to look but I wonder if the trailer's hook up will mate with this 7-pin connector on the Tundra.....

Anyway I'm sure I can get by for a while with no brakes (and no lights) on the trailer.....been getting by without either on my current trailer for four years now....

*Not exactly true but I'm pretty sure my trailer lights only work sometimes.

 

Wiring-wise, there are adapters for just about everything these days. A lot of basic trailers only have 4-wire. I can't remember the last time I saw a trailer with brakes that didn't have a 7-wire.

 

Picked up the trailer today. Some "buyer's remorse" but the wife doesn't think it's warranted. Anyway, 18 feet long and 6' 8" wide deck space.

Tundra tows it fine.

7 point connector fits the Tundra but the lights don't work at all. I'll have to extend the skill set and find the trouble or hire a local shop to get that going.

Back up camera isn't great but works well enough to use for solo hookups.

Finally figured out how to turn the radio off.

 

Loaded up the trailer, headed towards the customer, realized the hitch ball was too low to allow the mower to go down the ramp. I have this problem on the other trailer when pulled by the Canyon....fixed it by buying a 6 inch drop hitch and putting the ball on upside down.

This solution won't work as the Tundra sits up a great deal higher.

I'll have to see what hitches are available. One client may have an adjustable hitch they'll let me have.

Lights on trailer started working today. Maybe plugging it into the truck cleaned the truck's contacts a bit????

 

Try something like this

https://www.homedepot.com/p/CURT-7-Way-RV-Blade-Connector-Tester-58270/205632731

 

Learned today that if one of my doors is open the (rear) cargo lamp stays on.

 

Correct. But you can tap the cargo lamp button in the dash and it turns off, until the next time a door is opened. Expected behavior. The button should be lit amber when active, and turn off when you tap the button. I’m 90% sure this info is in your Owner’s Manual. Sounds like maybe you still haven’t read it.

 

Yes I learned yesterday I can turn the cargo light off but that has to be done over and over. It, like the overdrive OFF button, would have been better if designed to be "turned on" not "turned off."

The Tundra is definitely better at backing up the single axle trailer over the '05 GMC Canyon. Yesterday was a lighter mowing day so the single axle was used hauling the smaller zero turn and the residential self-propelled mower. With the Canyon, backing up on a bumpy road requires constant correction and backing up into a 90 degree turn requires two perfectly timed or nearly so 45 degree turns. Today I found the Tundra can do this without constant corrections and one smooth flow of the wheel makes for an easy 90 degree reverse turn.

I suspect the better torque output and more solid hitch are the reasons.

*The Canyon's hitch is an upside down 6 inch drop whereas the Tundra's is a 3-welded-ball solid hitch.

Today will be a tree trimming job so it'll be the single axle trailer again. I'll go down a two-lane road and back through 90 degrees into a narrow gravel driveway. Wife will get out and block traffic.

More and more I am convinced the Tundra was a great buy.

If she holds up we are considering having her repainted next year, depending on finances.

 

Found out the Tundra's anti-lock brakes work!

Coming back from unloading 360 pounds of tree branches at the landfill....old boy is trying to pull out into traffic. I see him stopped at the "STOP" sign. He looks left but never looks to the right! Sure enough, here he comes pulling out in front of us. I'm on the brakes hard, they do the pulsating thing. I lay on the horn, he stops short of coming into our lane. "No harm, no foul." I thanked the Lord for us avoiding that!

I told the wife, "now, say we were pulling the 18-foot trailer (which weighs 2,000 pounds) with 2,000 pounds of zero turn mowers on it....would that have pushed us into T-boning him? We better get that brake controller figured out!"

Probably a good thing I sprung for new rotors and calipers at the stealership...

 

Mileage check today when I refilled the tank: 13 mpg.

Most, if not all of those miles were towing.

 

So, guys, what bed cover options do I have?

When mowing (which is nearly ever sunny day) we carry our gasoline cans in the back plus some hand tools. I'd like to keep those covered but in a way that I can roll or fold that thing back easily.

I don't keep power tools back there overnight so a "soft" cover would work fairly well I think.

What options do I have?

Ideally I'd want the cover to be white in color, to keep the temperature down.

 

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