What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Softopper Deal if anyone is in the market.

 

Scared this sum bitch so bad I made it shut down

 

Is that a manx, or is its tail just tucked away?

Just chillin' in that there garbage or what?

 

Based on appearance alone, looks like a definite upgrade that I'll do. Will stayed tuned for the functionality report after you get a chance to try it for a while

 

It was accidentally locked in my MIL's garage for almost a month. I'm guessing it ate it's tail

Animals are more hard core than any of us could ever hope to be

 

Add-a-add-a-add-a-add-a-add-a-leaf.

 

I dunno man, there are some pretty hardcore MF out there: https://www.cmu.edu/magazine/03fall/aralston.html

 

I am whooped.

LBJ's, Tie rod inners and outers, dust boots all done. All OEM, minus the MOOG inners.

The outer tie rods originally installed
were aftermarket. The LBJs were too. Both side LBJs had 15mm bolts instead of the 17mm that is OEM. The driver side LBJ castle nut was a whooping 27mm! The passenger side was 24mm. Very, very odd. Had to make 2 trips to the parts store. Broke 2 LBJ removal tools, but advance swapped it out so I only paid once. It was garbage quality anyway.

 

Congrats dude. I'm personally not a fan of that specific style of puller.

Meanwhile, it's worthwhile to keep a yellow paint pen on-hand. I mark the position of my bolt heads, marking the head and the LBJ with a line. I check them after a few hundo miles to make sure they haven't moved, and usually peek over at them at every oil change to be sure. I do this with any "mission critical" bolts where failure would be a 'bad day'.

 

Thank buddy. Good idea. I'll do that now.

Removing the LBJs were a pain in the ass. They were both stuck on really, really good. Bought an $8 fork tool from harbor freight to use after both of those garbage tools broke.

 

I can't remember if I just smacked mine out, or if I threw the stock bottle jack under the LBJ threaded shaft and jacked up or what. But I had zero issues. I know I used my handy dandy HF pitman arm puller for either popping the outer tie rod out of the LBJ, or popping the LBJ out of the LCA. I don't recall which. Based on the mouth of the thing, I'm assuming it was the TRE, but ...

​

 

Napa sells one of those made of forged steel, but it’s like $40-$50.

 

I've got the Napa one and it works really well for LBJs. Slightly too big for TREs, but I'm usually able to hammer mine out.

 

That thing is a freaking life saver. When I was doing my ball joints, I spent a whole day of my friend wacking at them with a big sledge hammer while I jumped up and down on a pickle fork, that didn’t work. The next day I bought a ball joint separator like the one below, and the ball joint won the battle leaving the separator snapping into two pieces. On the day I bought the one in your picture with a breaker bar, and finally, i hear a loud POP, had it off in just a few minutes. I was literally dancing around screaming “Yes! I did it i finally did it”… one of my favorite tools even though Ive only used it for my lower ball joints.

 

You fight with enough pitman arms and idler arms on old GM trucks and you learn to love tools like that thing. I was shocked to see it’d fit on the Toyota’s bits. Shocked, and happy.

 

I bought a "front end service kit" from OTC via Zoro.com. Got a 20% off coupon in the mail a week or so before the order.

Hope to still have the Tundra 100K miles from now so I can use it again.

***
Yesterday I found out my Tundra's anti-lock brakes work. Used the Tundra to tow my single axle trailer and remove about 700 pounds of tree limbs from a client's front yard.

 

OTC front end kit has gotten me through every front end job except the upper ball joints. It's a great kit. And the tool shifty' posted (which comes with the kit) is the one I've used many times now for lower ball joints.

Maybe other people don't have this problem, but I ran into issues with the BFH method. I popped my upper ball joints a few weeks back when I put new coils on the front, and decided to try the hammer method. I don't know how people manage to get a good solid swing at the upper, with the fender in the way. Because of that I was coming at an angle, and nearly mangled the top of the ubj stud beyond salvaging. I was worried I'd have to do that pain in the ass job again, replacing it. Went back to the same OTC tool as I use for lbj, and it worked great.

 

I'll definitely be investing in that tool the next time that I have to do the LBJs. I'll need the do the uppers sometime in the future. The bushings are wore out.

 

Parked at the grocery store and turned the truck to accessory while I rolled the windows up and finished listening to the radio, and the radio shut off and the windows slow rolled their way up. Weird. Plugged the OBD reader in and voltage said 8.4. Bummer. Battery is 5 yrs and 2 months old now. Went inside and bought my stuff and lined up a rescue buddy, but told them to wait till I went out and tried to start it. Popped the hood, wiggled the terminals a little to make sure they were well seated, hopped in and it fired right up and read 13v. Guess I might need some new terminals. Mine are old and a bit sad.

 

Man, same shit was happening to me recently. I was tempted to replace the battery. Battery tester, connected to the terminals because I was lazy, showed battery was bad. Instead, positive terminal was loose.

 

The one and only time my 98 Tacoma stalled on me, then wouldn't start the next morning turned out to be dirty/corroded terminals. They looked fine. But after a good baking soda and water cleaning, everything was perfect.

 

Random Yota bro pick

 

Clear corner lights + factory style fogs. I needed that extra spread cause the colights are too narrow for me.

 

5 years is a really good run for batteries these days sadly.

 

Yeah, I think the general lifespan is 3-5 years, depending on the brand.

 

Got my seats and center console swap done and added a little sound deadening under the seats. I love the feel now. So much cozier. Now I just have to figure out how to fix the airbag light. One of the seats is having an issue and not sure which, but I think it’s the passenger seat.

 

not bad

 

Hell yeah, looks awesome!

Did the airbag light start after the seat swap? You didn't happen to leave the negative battery cable connected while you installed the seats, did you?

Do you have an OBDII dongle that will hook into the ABS ECU to see what the code is that's set?

 

Thanks. Leather buckets are where it’s at.

I did leave the negative connected. I think the issue is the passenger seat plug being different than the old passenger side bench plug.

For some reason my dongle wouldn’t connect to the SRS system when I tried earlier. I might try again here in a bit

 

Tackled the door panel upholstery sagging. Quite the process.
Remove old adhesive and old foam
Clean rapid remover off
Cut out patterns for new foam and black upholstery stuff
Test fit
Dap up the foam and panel
Wait...lay it
Dap up black skin.
Wait...apply it realize it's a lil too big for some reason pull off some reapply....ugh.
Be happy it's not falling. Not perfect.






Drivers door is gonna test me...