1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

According to the limited info I can find on the discontinued Deaver D10045K73 single AALs I got from @Palo Duro Breau they appear to now be made by (for?) Toytec, under a different part number. They appear to offer 1.5"-2" lift on Tacomas. I imagine (hope) because the first gen Tacomas are much smaller/lighter and the second gen+ Tacomas have composite plastic beds, that I assume to be lighter than ours, that hope to see about 1"-1.5" of lift max, when I attempt to add them to my Alcans this weekend.




I think I'll start tearing down the rear Thursday. Maybe I'll even have one side done, or at least have the leafs mated together on one side, by the time @Polo can come lend a me hand this weekend.
Worse case scenario we either put it back together as is, or if we're feeling squirrelly, we could swap the Deaver AALs onto my 03 (while also swapping 1" lift block for a 1/2" SOS lowering block), and rob/dissect it's Wheelers Offroad progressive AALs, for use with the Alcans on the 06. We shall see.

 

What’s the likelihood I could get a new back hatch? Im having to drive 3.5+ hours to check it out and have yet to hear back from LEER about a replacement. Serial #00965162

*For an access cab but I was going to run it on my DC.. Seems like DC canopy’s are near impossible to come by where I’m at.

 

Having to replace any of the glass on a camper shell makes it not worth it trouble and money wise for me. The parts are generally not easy to come by, nor are they cheap.

 

Being that Leer is a big brand and still in business, I'd guess that there's a decent chance you can get the glass still, assuming they get back to you. I think I've seen people mention buying new back glass for like $400. Might have been another brand.
Like @KNABORES said, it's not worth that price with missing glass. Definitely try to get that price closer to $200.
Good luck!

 

I appreciate the reply! Definitely a bit of a gamble picking it up without hearing back from LEER directly.

I may just bite my thumb and wait for a DC canopy to pop up.

Cheers!

 

I appreciate the reply.

That and it not being for a DC to begin with might just be more of a hassle than anything.

 

That’s a 100R. You should be able to get back glass, it’s a current shell. They had glass for mine, same model, when I called last year.

That said, the back window (IIRC) was an assembly and upwards of $375-425 USD, so expect to pay more than they’re asking for the shell for the back door alone.

 

This is what an AC shell looks like on a DC truck, here, it’s kinda fucked, and the height of the shell compared to the bedside height (bedside taller than cap, significantly so) looks goofy af too: Pic in case that post gets deleted, the front lower corner that often cracks when installing/removing, it looks pretty wack:

 

I drove my truck to work last night and noticed it is still wandering on the highway, like it did before we rebuilt the front end. I just double checked and everything is torqued to spec. The only thing I see that seems put of place is the front passenger wheel has no weights. Seems off. I might take it to the tire shop up the street and ask them to balance just that one.

What do y'all think? I plan to drive this truck about 4 hours tonight. I might just throw my 33's back on.

Oh and I just noticed the spare doesn't have any weights either. Wtf?
It's worth mentioning these 35's are all used. So I would expect them to all have weights.

 

Doubt the wandering is wheel weights. More likely caster or toe. having neutral toe creates wandering, same with caster. More caster (if possible) with enough toe in creates a self centering and stable steering feel with less wander.

 

Here's the numbers

 

Positive toe??? Interesting. May be your problem.

 

Looks good to me.

Could be softer sidewalls on the used tires.

 

Positive toe, or toe out creates a quicker steering feel, but also makes the steering feel "darty" and 'wandery" or overly sensitive to inputs. Negative toe or toe in creates a slower steering response feel, but a self centering, stable, straight-line feeling.

 

Yeah I got a very slight pull to the right. The steering itself feels fine, just the truck requires more steering input to keep it straight because of the wandering. Basically feels just like it did with the worn out tie rods, rack bushings, and LCA bushings. Reminds me of an exaggerated feel of first gen Tacomas steering, because of their two piece steering column

 

I started working on vehicles professionally in 1960 and I know of no reputable shop that would promote toe out as being safe.

 

So my toe needs to come in slightly?

 

Surprised this is still available. Sure, 300k miles, but looks great minus that bed damage. Weird.

https://chattanooga.craigslist.org/cto/d/chattanooga-2006-toyota-tundra-4x4/7840310977.html

 

Other way around. Positive is IN and negative is OUT.

 

My bad, this is the correct terminology. I flippy flopped them. Carry on!

 

I wonder if maybe my steering column is loose on the rack, from when we did the bushings, LCAs, and tie rods? Because we had to loosen and pull the rack back a few inches.

 

Why waste your time on a measly 150 amp alternator when you can hang one of these bad boys on your rig, 7.5kW, 120 volt!

 

Dear Jeezez,
Driving on THE I-10 at speeds of 65-80mph, in the wee hours this morning with all the truckers, was intense AF.
Penelope is a wanderer. I might try to torque the KPO bolts passed the OEM 96ft lbs. Because the run on torque of the stover nuts used. I'm thinking that might be why I'm wandering so bad at highway speeds. I don't think I can mentally take driving to T2S with it wandering the way it is. So I'm going to try torquing the KPO bolts to 110ft lbs. Me and #sirfive attempted to torque them to 125ft lbs, when we installed em. But I'm really not sure why.

 

@KNABORES nailed it.

I also want to mention that with the camper shell on the back you're displacing weight. The front end is now lighter so it's going to float around a bit more. In your case it's going to be pretty exaggerated with the bumper/swingout + camper shell. You should report back once you get the leaf spring stuff installed and see what it feels like.

 

You're driving Ironman when you get here next week. 0.60 degrees of caster and 0.02 degrees of toe. It's a wild ride.

 

Not to mention 3 of my skids were in the bed, instead of the front of the truck nice n low

 

My buddies with F250s report the factory 33s and 35s ride great compared to going up to 37s which creates a very floaty all over the place ride. The move to 35s certainly changes the driving dynamic. What pressure are you running them at?

 

Good fucking question...

 

Casey officially has skid plates.

 

Are you going to tell us his dog still has his nuts next?