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4.6L 2010 SR5 issue

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by Aojnak, Apr 16, 2025.

  1. Apr 16, 2025 at 12:03 AM
    #1
    Aojnak

    Aojnak [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2025
    Member:
    #133299
    Messages:
    3
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tonio
    Vehicle:
    2010 Tundra SR5 4.6L
    none
    Hey all, sorry this message is long but i would like to see what I can rattle and get ideas. So I have a 2010 Sr5 4.6L stock with no upgrades mods. Got sideswiped over the winter and wasn't to terrible, was paying attention, passengers side. Got it back from the body shop, drove fine, went back to work and got off and took the truck home instead. i have a 09 matrix as well that i drove while the truck was down, anyhow, started driving and it died while driving. Odd, died three time before i was able to get into a auto parts parking lot, luckily only not half a block down the road. So i had them test the battery since i noticed the battery gauge dropped , nope battery is good. K so i am scratching my head maybe the alternators going out. had a friend come and test it with his bros gadget pretty cool thing, nope alternators putting out the correct voltage. K so i have been looking on the web and this forum for weeks and haven't found anything similar to my side. I do have auto start. I noticed that when its idle just sitting no problems auto start works and key in ignition works, but when it is driven the battery gauge drops and loss of everything. Turns right back over every time and can drive maybe for 30 seconds and dies again. Had enough fuel in the tank, I did siphon some out thinking bad fuel or something, didn't notice anything unusual. I did notice during my diagnoses that I had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running. So i ruled out anything electrical system wise now I am leaning towards something with the fuel system. So weird, never encountered it before. So i did also call the folks that worked on my truck and they "said" that it was doing that when they were moving it around too (why no call about it?). Ran fine until i brought in in to them and was told to get it to a mechanic. I have worked on this truck ever since i have had it and don't like or trust the dealerships nor bodyshops now. Does anyone have any ideas that i can get a different diagnoses started in the possible fuel system of the truck. Once i figure out how to get my photos and video on here ill post it to.
     
  2. Apr 16, 2025 at 3:36 AM
    #2
    tmac58star

    tmac58star New Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2019
    Member:
    #31106
    Messages:
    267
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    Black 1st generation Tundra SR5 Access Cab
    Check all your battery connections/cables for corrosion, tighten/replace as necessary...they're 15 years old.
     
  3. Apr 16, 2025 at 11:30 AM
    #3
    Aojnak

    Aojnak [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2025
    Member:
    #133299
    Messages:
    3
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tonio
    Vehicle:
    2010 Tundra SR5 4.6L
    none
    Yeah I check them all and cleaned them and tightened them back down checked all the wiring come of the battery to all possible locations at connections spots. So my girl has an acquaintance that came by with his expensive scan tool and it said something about my immobilizer kicking in. So checking grounds on that side and all the plugs on everything on the side that was repaired. And I am going to disconnect the battery for a few hours and see if the vehicle maybe resets. Just so weird. He didn’t think it was a fuel issue or alternator issue and it maybe a loose connection or ground issue causing it. I’ll keep it updated.
     
  4. Apr 16, 2025 at 10:50 PM
    #4
    Aojnak

    Aojnak [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2025
    Member:
    #133299
    Messages:
    3
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tonio
    Vehicle:
    2010 Tundra SR5 4.6L
    none
    Alright, i got it figured out and she's back yay. K so my girls friend knew someone with a real nice scan tool. After he left though i figured ill just try to disconnect the battery from the vehicle to hopefully get the ECU to reset (wing and a prayer) hopefully. He found I had thrown 4 codes, (which is weird thought codes would show only when check engine light is lit), which i wasn't when i had the issue... SO anyway P1603 - engine stall history: P1604 startibility malfunction: P1605 Rough idling and code b2799 immobilizer malfunction. So that definietly rules out anything to do with the alternator. The battery is associated with the 03,04,05 codes. Suggesting try to measure voltage across battery and to charge it. Those were there first steps i had taken when the issue first occurred. Had the trickle charger on it for about two days lowest setting and letting it do its thing even though is was still showing i had 12V. My friend that came by the day before used a conductance tester to verify that the alternator and battery was good. Battery show 12.4V with the truck running and i think 13.8 from the alternator which check out according to specs. I am going to invest in to one of these they are a good thing to have on hand. If the battery was no good it had produced less specific of current coming out. Which, I would have noticed light lights flickering or something to that scale. Those items checked out too. So battery would need to be replaced, codes cleared and road test to verify check engine light stays off. There again, no check engine light wasn't illuminated so crossed that section out. Now the immobilizer is a different story. The immobilizer malfunction would indicate the body control module did not receive the signal from the transmitter (key fob). This is referring to the actual key fob to the vehicle not a separate auto start fob. I guess in some cases the chip crack thus not sending the signal to the truck say hey i am the owner of the vehicle basically. don't think i have ever not had the fob away since mainly the auto start one is used the most. ill try it one day without it and see if it happens, but there is also a dot on the key that the truck can use to detect it too. I will look more into that one later. So basically dead battery in the fob could be a culprit if the chip is not cracked. K change out the battery, and then i took my time checking out any and all wire connections on the passenger side, kick panel side has a ground there. Checked all those connections in that are good. Checked the door connections and loose wiring both passenger and rear passenger doors. Nothing....that i know of looked loose everything seemed connected. The ground under the hood on the wall never been touch solid as rock. Ruled out connecting issues on that side. So that leaves FOB battery or truck reset. Don't think it was the battery in the fob it read 3v as the old one, new one was 3v too. Either a harness connector was just barely touching or resetting the truck computer by disengaging the negative on the battery, fixed it. But she's running now, so glad to have it back. And only spent $2.94 for fuses and not a ridiculous amount for something simple. So hopefully this will help someone out if they come across an issue like this.
     

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