What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Doing the DIR Harness Update to the 02 AC today. How do you get that little black clip off the OEM plug (without breaking it)?

 

"That little black clip"

Super descriptive, on a truck with about 500 OEM plugs with little black clips

Dunno if it helps, but .... https://www.tundras.com/threads/lic...hile-in-reverse-dir.97246/page-2#post-2522320

 

I was already using your write up. In one of your photos there's a white arrow pointing to the black body clip and instructions "Pop off from behind". You know, this thing.


Half my trouble and time with every upgrade seems to be figuring out how to remove a connector without destroying it. It's a learning curve that drives me nuts. For this one, I looked at the corresponding plug in the new DIR adapter and figured out I could jam a scratch awl into the back to release the catch. Part of the plastic head broke off when removing it from the body, so I'll need to order a new one.

Anyway, I've got an "extra" connector underneath there with a similar white body plug that doesn't seem to fit anywhere.

 

Damn, that reminds me, I need to look up an adapter connector for the speed/reverse wire harness behind the stereo on '05-'06 trucks. (R26)

I wanted to use both of those wires in R26 when I installed the new head unit but wasn't willing to positap them, knowing I'd hafta have that head unit out again when I install my amp anyway.

As of yet, I've been unable to find the male side of the R26 plug that would be the same as what you find on the back of the OEM NAV radio found in the later 1st gen models.

 

Replaced my tailgate latch where the plastic handle broke off. It was stiff for few years but did not bother lubricating it. Oh well. Got one of those "metal handle" one and lubricated all over all moving parts before putting it all together. Maybe I will keep the old part and replace just the handle with the non-oem handle - looked like they can be directly replaced - once the non-oem one breaks in some other way.

 

Redid my sound system yesterday, took way longer than i’d like to admit but i got my JL c2 600 speakers installed well along with my kicker 46cxa360.4T amp and got everything wired up whilst staying hidden surprisingly well. saved myself about 380 bucks by doing it myself. Incredibly happy with the speakers and their performance, 100% worth the price

this is my setup if anyone is interested
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699615/JL-Audio-C2-600.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646CX36T/Kicker-46CXA360-4T.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CSW9W20/Crutchfield-CSW9W-20-Speaker-Wire.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142PA8BX/EFX-PA8BX-Amp-Wiring-Kit.html

and in the next month i’ll be getting another amp and two rockford fosgate 10 inch subs https://www.crutchfield.com/p_5751P3D410/Rockford-Fosgate-P3D4-10.html

 

I’m going to give sway bar delete a try. These end links are trash. I think this is where my noise is coming from. Either way, they’re trash.

 

Yeah! Fuck that sway bar!

 

I'm all for removing unnecessary or annoying components-

But I bet yall would be shocked with how well your trucks handle with a front and rear sway bar.

 

I'm removing mine for science. I'm sure I'll order new end links on the way home.

 

Seems to be 50/50 on the rear sway bar. Some love it, some claimed it made little difference.

I can't tell much difference with my front sway bar removed but I've got fairly stiff coilovers. I wonder attempt it if I had something else.

 

Since my post over the weekend, I’ve been doing a deep dive on my nannified unicorn-in-a-not-so-great-way 2004. I have VSC (vehicle stability control), Traction control (usually called TRAC, but just represented on my dash as the little car with squiggly skid lines), and AUTO LSD (Automatic limited slip differential). I looked in my manual and got a little info, but its pretty hazy as to what each one actually does. I checked out this Youtube and it seems to be pretty helpful in explaining it, even though this is a GX460. So here is my general summary, at least from what I can figure out. Feel free to comment. I’m just trying to figure this out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XLtQYtbw9E

Vehicle Stability Control – this appears to be basically skid control. It senses not only wheelspin, but also yaw and pitch and some other stuff and modulates brakes and I think engine power to help correct your trajectory as you start to spin out. Bummer is that I cannot turn this off in 2WD. It does however automatically turn off in 4WD.

Auto LSD – this is just a wheelspin control which the manual says to use if you are losing traction with one rear wheel (why would you not just use 4WD???). You can only engage it in 2WD. Basically this seems pretty much useless in a 4WD truck. I have no idea what this is for.

Traction control – this seems pretty similar to auto LSD except that it functions all the time in 2WD and 4WD, I think on all four wheels, and you cannot disable it. This is the system that was going nuts on me this weekend as I was driving around in thick and nasty mud. I could hear the brake actuators going crazy, which the manual tells you to expect. To be fair it worked pretty well and I didn’t get stuck. It probably serves it’s purpose and is really useful and functional in light and even medium duty off road. But, it’s kinda annoying and I’m not sure if it’ll be a pro or a con when I actually get to go full on off-road in the truck.

So, there ya go. Hopefully this helps another poor soul understand their truck.

Also, here’s a pic of my master cylinder. Do I have the mutant?

 

"He's one of those freaks!!"

 

Wait…you can’t spin your tires because you can’t turn off traction control? I don’t know about you, but that right there would’ve made me walk out of the dealership to look for another vehicle.

 

The Auto LSD works pretty good. My 2000 doesn’t have it, but my 2019 did. Off, wheel spin on wet grass. On, hooks up and moves. Pretty cool.

 

Finally, got everything installed and buttoned up, but I'm experiencing problems with the driver side rear lights (blinker, tail, brake, and reverse). I've got a couple DMs into @daveeasa .

 

Nah. With stiffer coils it feels the same unless you're doing high speed maneuvers.

 

I'll give it a few days, but I did not order sway bar end links on my way home

 

Im sure that some of the reason a rear sway made such a huge difference for me is that I’m on worn out original springs. Still was night and day though.

 

Body roll was pretty pronounced on mine when I disconnected it, but I am running a stock 00 coil passengers/00 TRD coil drivers, on new billy 4600s.

 

I dodged a mattress on The 10 headed to Tundras to the cinders. It got a little spicy, I didn’t over react and actually ran part of it over. 95% of my driving is city streets, so it doesn’t bother me to much

 

I still need to clock my CoLights. The only reason I haven't yet is they are slanted down toward on coming traffic, so I'm not blinding them, and my led fog lights actually fill in the blanks pretty damn good at night.

 

I'm not shocked at all. I've gotten used to just the rear on my lowered 03, but it is a little loose goosey in front on fast turns and bumps at high speed... High speed bumps with a slight curve in the road get sketchy

 

Tacoma world is a wealth of knowledge on the subjects. You'll just have to use your noggin to decide what's applicable to you Tundra.

 

You’re running a non-TRD coil with a TRD one? What’s the logic in that?

 

• Female connector is 90980-11909 and pins are 82998-12690
• Male connector with pins that fits the female, with different prices to choose from....Amazon.com : 7283-5830 90980-11909

 

Absolutely no logic involved, just necessity. Drivers side came with a Monroe Quick strut. I was replacing front shocks and was not going to use the junk Monroe coil.
it was the ONLY cheap $45 coil available at a JY close to me. The slightly stiffer coil granted me "some" drivers lean correction. Now you know the rest of the story.

Edit: Hell I've got one WE and one WL caliper too! Came from the POs repair to the drivers suspension from an accident. She's a hot fkn mess, and I love her.

 

No I can’t spin my tires because I only have 245 hp. Lol. I can spin my tires, but it kinda needs to be raining. From a dead stop in the dry going straight, I barely get any wheel spin. But yeah I think thats more of a hp problem than anything else. The Nannies often don’t even kick in in that situation.

yeah I looked on there a little bit. I’m not gonna worry about it too much, I’m just sort of confused about all the overlap of why I have three separate traction systems. But whatever. Worst case scenario is I go to Merus or somewhere like that and it’s a total fail because the Nannie’s override all fun.