What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

@KNABORES
https://www.tundras.com/threads/rad...-model-gen1-trucks.110711/page-2#post-3885971

 

Added some light brackets. Thread posted.

Fedex update: My Coastal bumpers are in TN and making their way east....woot woot.

 

Spanner wrench showed up today instead of Monday. I guess I need to pull an all nighter, adjusting the front end.

 

Going up or down?

 

Up.




what's the best way to adjust my coilovers off the truck? The spanner wrench I have was making it a bitch to do on the truck. And I lost the one that came with my Kings (which makes it easy to do on the truck).

@FrenchToasty

 

I got tired of the CarPlay USB cable from the new JVC head unit laying in the passenger floor board. Crutchfield suggested this Scoshce PowerVolt Dash Port. This part provides 1) a pass-through for the CarPlay USB-A connection and; 2) a separate USB-C power plug. I decided to use it to replace the lower power port in the lower dash. I made a couple of pigtails and grabbed the 2 smallest PosiTaps out of the kit I bought.

Because I didn't know how to remove the power ports and covers, I mangled both covers getting them out and had to order a new one. Once it arrived, I re-installed the OEM upper port and put the Scosche port in the lower opening.


Then I used the PosiTaps and pigtails to tap into the power and ground wires for the original port without removing the original connector. So, this upgrade is theoretically reversible. (@shifty` should be proud of me.)

Next, I connected the CarPlay USB plug to the Scosche USB-A cord and ziptied those up out of the way.

I plugged the pigtails onto the appropriate "+" and "-" terminals on the back of the Scosche port and tested everything. Finally, I buttoned everything back up with a brand new set of trim plugs.

Here's what it looks like now. I still need a cord plugged in for CarPlay, but this is much cleaner than having the head unit cable laying in the floor board. Having the separate USB-C power in the same port is a plus.

 

It ain't stupid if it works, yeah?


Ok five turns is an inch.
I did three full turns and have 17 threads showing. I guess we'll see how that looks

 

@FrenchToasty how many threads you showing? I'm at 17 but think I'm going do two more full turns for a full inch

 

Sorry I didn’t have any tips or tricks I struggled

 

Probably 22 and 19 on the passenger side

 

Finished my T-Belt.

Runs and drives, great, less pulley noise! New timing belt sticker!

Will keep an eye on coolant system and add as needed. Used a no spill kit thingy.

Lastly, I checked the transmission fluid level since I replaced the radiator... Followed AT-4 thru 6. Got the trans to 125F on my OBD scanner dashboard and pulled the check plug just to confirm, and it turns out... It was WAY high and came gushing out. Put the plug back with a new crush gasket.. but I'm scared to torque to 20NM tbh ..

How do y'all feel about the upper rad hose? It seems long and wants to flatten/ kink a little... I triple checked the PN

 

I have a wireless CarPlay dongle. No cord.

$50 Teeran CarPlay Wireless Adapter for Factory Wired CarPlay 2024 Upgrade Plug & Play Dongle Converts Wired to Wireless for Cars from 2015 & iPhone iOS 10+ (White)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPSGLG5Q

 

i know i trimmed 1/2” off the rad side of my upper rad hose. I dont remember if i trimmed anything off the bottom, but that was a napa hose in like ‘08, when i was still grandpas truck.

 

Did you install hose backwards?

 

This is what I bought, but The Magic Link. It works when it works. Usually it works. Sometimes it does have a hiccup but it’s mostly flawless. I was convinced it was part of my control delay problem, but now it’s seeming like that may not be entirely the case. Great option when your radio only supports wired CarPlay.

 

Haha, uuuuh maybe, I didn't try it both ways, I just put the short leg to the WP and the long end into the rad...

 

Short leg 90 goes to the rad

 

I’m pretty sure i wouldnt have used worm clamps. I musta trimmed the hose on the sequoia. I’ve been a fan of spring clamps my whole life.

 

Well F. Guess I know that I'm fixing tomorrow.

 

More redneck problem solving.
Finally got one side of the KPO cam eliminaters how I want them.

Yes that's a ratchet strap over the bolt and nut. Finally moved it over enough to slide the octogon in neutral again for the fronts. Rears are all the way out.

 

While you’re in there you could stuff in an anti collapse spring. I think i used

150ft.lbs?

 

I got a figure out how to use this torque wrench. I relied heavily on you to set it before. 110lbs.
Definitely gonna have to replace the zipties on the tie rod boots. They ain't cutting it.

 

As you twist it threads in & climbs. Get to the nearest 5 or 10 below, then line up the center mark with the number on the twist. So 110 will have the 0 on the handle lined up with the 110 on the arm. Ft.lbs or lb.ft, not mpa or celcius.

149.2 nm.

 

Iirc I was at 19 and 21. I meant to write it down before I put em back on. So much easier to count me off the truck .no big deal though. I had em exactly how I wanted em before the Solos. So in theory lifting each side the same amount should put em even side to side still.

Also set the SPC camber all the way out. Will fine tune that later in the week
It needs to settle first and toe definitely needs to be addressed

 

Got it, thanks. I was over thinking it


What's an anti collapse spring?

 

Really need to fine tune em on the truck. Go pull some jerky figure-8’s in a parking lot and you’ll feel which side is soft. Or brakes, slam on your brakes and if it pulls to one side, that side has more traction.

 

sorry, never found the brand i used, but its a wire spring you stuff into rad hose for high rpm stuff, but its has the benefit of keeping a hose from collapsing if the system loses pressure. You’ll see the steam & can back off, but it wont close the hose & run the pump dry. The one i put on the sequoia had a copper colored coating to keep the steel from rusting.

 

Nice! Can you share the details of how to do the repair? Is that epoxy that holds the metal pieces in place...then spray glue to hold the fabric? Tricks for laying the contours without wrinkles?

 

Yea, pwn15, it was an unfinished thought. A rabbit hole i couldn't even.

 

Still on the road home. But mr2 secured and a roller now. Trailer pulls great, tundra hasn’t given a fuck about the past 1400 miles so far. Love this old truck