Replaced timing belt and now no start.

"code went away....code came back"
Since 340 and 345 codes are bank 1(driver) /bank 2(passenger) respectfully, are you saying both 340 and 345 codes went away or just one and if just one which one ?

 

Both went away.

 

I’m not sure when I said that but yes all the gauges and am such come in.

 

It still doesn’t start. I swapped relays and no start. I also tested the relay socket and no power to the socket whatsoever.

 

I am not getting any power at the relay but I am at the fuses in the cab. I’m thinking this is ecu related any good information on testing the ecu. If it does prove to be emthe ecu what is the forum recommendation? New ecu from Toyota, repair current ecu, buy used or buy aftermarket?

 

Ok been doing some testing again. The sta fuse has continuity but no voltage. Looks like it gets voltage from the exam or the ignition, I’m not sure. Wiring diagrams confuse me so I attached the one from the factory service manual. Where is the st2 located coming from the ignition? Also how would one go about testing the computer?

 

The ST2 is your Ignition switch pos when turning key to start.
Since you’re looking at Starting section of FSM, it’s not showing the ACC position of Ign Sw which is irrelevant for starting

Not sure where to jump in but I’ll throw out a few checks and see what you see. Apologize if you’ve mentioned these readings but hard to tell where you actually are.

Start Relay pins with relay pulled…
5 - should be 12vdc to gnd
2 - should be approx 1 ohm to batt neg
1 - with meter set to VDC, Neg lead of meter to batt, Pos lead of meter to pin 1.
With meter positioned where you can see from cab….attempt to crank, should have approx 12vdc or less dependent on Batt condition

 

Did you ever figure your issue out? I had a similar “no start” issue after replacing TB & WP” on my 05’ DC Tundra 4.7. Nothing happened when I tuned the key. No codes, just seemed like a dead battery or bad starter.

I un plugged wire to Left cam sensor and it would crank. Turns out the wires at the sensor were pinched at the water pump. Removed wires and protected nicks in the sheathing. Fired fright up. Hope this helps anyone with this similar issue

 

I joined just to thank Mark M for #68 reply on this thread. This is exactly what happened when doing the timing belt and water pump on my 05 Sequoia. I turned the crank over by hand twice and made sure the timing marks all lined up. So I knew it was not that. I still could not get the car to even try to start. I replaced the battery and put a new alternator on it. still no attempt to start whatsoever. I finally googled "05 Sequoia no start after timing belt" and this was the first search result. If I had done the timing belt any sooner im not sure i'd have ever narrowed down what the issue was. I was able to slip the left timing cover back off with several cuts and scrapes on my hand as a result and sure enough...I saw the pinched wires in between the water pump and backing plate. I sprayed them with wd 40 and gently wiggled them back and forth with some hook nose pliers and was able to free them...i plugged the connector back in and the car fired right up. Thank you Mark M very much for taking the time to post your reply with excellent pictures as well.