2005 Tundra Won’t start back up after changing water pump.

I changed my water pump myself on my 05 Tundra trying to save money. Before I took off the timing belt I set the crank on the make and the cam on the mark , but never fully turned the pulley a full revolution it wouldn’t allow me to. I just put it back together off the marks but I seen the left cam jump over a little before I put the belt on. I never messed with the the timing or cams before but I seen that it was newly done by the dealership. I put everything back together and it doesn’t crank up for me like it is locked up. Now I towed it to this mechanic shop and he wants to charge me 2,500 dollars saying I need a new motor , when the truck was running perfectly fine before I changed the water pump. Somebody help me out? What’s my best next move?

 

Did you line the timing marks up before putting the belt back on?

 

These trucks have an interference engine in them. If you didn’t take time to properly set the timing, you quite possibly just destroyed the engine. You MUST change the timing belt every 100k miles on these, if they snap
It can be catastrophic, and should do water pump at same time. When done, it’s critical you get the timing right.

The mechanic is potentially overreacting but he may also be right. You need to properly set the timing and try to start it. It won’t start if the timing is out, or if it does, it will run poorly and potentially cause damage.

 

PS, this website is a great guide to setting the timing. Hopefully you don’t fuck it up. The VVTi (2005-2006) engines are more sensitive to timing than 2000-2004. https://www.toyoheadquarters.com/threads/toyota-2uz-fe-timing-belt-marks-4-7l.335/

Get the timing right and hope you didn’t fuck anything up.

 

I think the mechanic is overacting!
Yes I did set it to the marks before putting the belt back on. The left cam did jump on me with the belt off and I turned it back by hand it wasn’t much. But the crank pulley wouldn’t turn all the way around before I took the belt off and still didn’t turn without it.

 

You should not turn the crank with the timing belt off. Post some pics so we can see

 

It’s in the shop right now so I can’t post the pictures. Just because he can barely halfway turn the crank pulley says it’s a bulb that’s bent and I need a new motor $2500 . I was driving perfectly fine before and I know that it’s the timing. I thought you had to adjust the cams?

 

Usually if someone changes the timing belt, the water pump gets changed with it. What made you assume the water pump was bad?

See, this makes no sense.

 

I was leaking antifreeze and at the shop the mechanic told me while it was in the air at his shop getting muffler work done and asked where was the leak coming from.

 

You installed the belt wrong and tried to start it. You damaged it, not the mechanic.

 

I never said that the mechanic damaged it. He said that I need to replace my engine for 2,500$. So do I need a new engine?

 

That sounds mighty cheap for an engine replacement, engine and swap labor? Why not re-time it correctly and see if it runs? Is this a qualified, trusted mechanic?

 

Not that I know of it’s a muffler shop I went to that was near where I was staying and took the truck to him to weld my pipe back when someone tried to steal my converters. I was just saying if my head is bad because that’s what he is saying, show me. He just showing me that the crank pulley isn’t turning around and I was saying that you have adjust the cams to and put the tensioner back on it then turn all three at the same time.

 

This is your first problem.

 

Did you ever figure your issue out? I had a similar “no start” issue after replacing TB & WP” on my 05’ DC Tundra 4.7. Nothing happen when I tuned the key. No codes, just seemed like a dead battery or bad starter.

I un plugged connector to the Left cam sensor and it would crank. Turns out the wires at the sensor were pinched at the water pump. Removed wires and protected nicks in the sheathing. Fired fright up. Hope this helps anyone with this similar issue

 

Dang, that's an interesting one. The damage we usually see in that situation is the t-belt or the cam itself cutting into the pigtail of the cam position sensor. Or people mis-routing the harness for the crank position sensor, and nicking it (which nukes the fuel pump circuit).

Good catch!

 

Mark,

Thank you for posting this. I just did a tb/wp on my ‘06 sequoia. Buttoned everything up and came time to start it.. no crank at all. Rechecked every sensor I touched and went back over everything. Nothing. I noticed the crank position sensor (which I didn’t touch for the job) had coolant on it and other grease and such run off from taking the wp off. I replaced that sensor and it fired right up. Sounded great. Drove great but then shut itself off and wouldn’t crank again. Next morning it started right up but once I turn it off it won’t restart and won’t crank. If I leave it alone a few hours or overnight it’ll start back up first try. I removed the timing cover to see the wires you’re referencing and I can see a few that appear pinched (I think) in that same wp area. Did you simply pull yours until it popped out of there or did you break everything back down and remove the pump to free them? My wires look a bit different than yours. I appreciate any assistance from the personal experience you had. Thanks again for the pic you provided.. I wouldn’t of thought of that.

 

I used a long small flathead screwdriver to pry between the water pump in the rear metal shield for the cam and pulled the wires out then disconnected the sensor to check my wires and wrap them with bulletproof tape

you should be able to pry enough on that metal cover next to the water pump to sneak the wires out. Remove the sensor and make sure everything’s clean without removing the water pump. I think I took the radiator fan idler pulley and fan housing off to access it easily

 

~

Will watch for this at 100K TB swap - 91K now.




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