Extremely Cheap! 5.29 gears. Motive gears OK?

This is how I’d do it if I were to do it again. I’m a little advantaged because I have access to a nice shop with a lift, but it would be really nice to have gears swapped over a weekend rather than a full week. Plus having the confidence that the setup was done by a tech that is familiar with the platform.

 

Which shop did you call? Everything is high around here, especially driveline related. Its nuts for sure

 

Hmm, you're on to something. Wonder what used front diff would resell for... ECGS is great to deal with too. Had a buddy buy a complete 8.8 rear for a Jeep TJ from them and was beat on without issue

 

Had my used front on marketplace for about 6 months. I think I got $100 for it. I bought a used one from LKQ and had it setup by Zuk, then sold my original.

 

What was the cost compared to ECGS?

 

They recommend you to send in the old core when doing the swap so they can keep up on supply.

If you don't send in the old one its something like $500 (at least that's what the core charge is on the other assemblies they sell) on top of the $2500 (for diff, gears, and locker)

 

Makes sense and still not a bad deal honestly. For people like me in areas where it seems labor rates to get gears done is crazy its a good alternative

 

I haven't tried contacting them about the fine print details yet, but based off the information I've read so far it really does sound like a great idea.

I've still got a couple more months of saving (and researching) before I pull the trigger

 

Dropped off the gears for REM polish and cryo treatment! Should get them back next Tuesday and then I’ll coordinate time to drop everything off with Zuk in Prescott.

 

I just called asking about the rear. They don't get donors and the freight is more expensive, so it's a non-offering. You'd have to ship yours in for a rebuild or drop the truck off.

 

Got the gears back from REM and cryo treatment. Now to pull the diffs out of the truck and run up to get everything put together.

 

Let me know if you want a helper. FYI - I didn’t need to do anything with the rear brake line bracket, just used a block of wood to hold the axles out enough to r/r the differential.

 

I was going to make @BiggHertz do all the work, but I’ll take the extra hands and experience if you can make it haha! I was going to text you soon to get that jack contraption you have too

 

hell, i get to work on a vehicle and it doesn’t cost me a dime… it’s a win-win

 

oof... that's not something I wanted to hear today

looks like I'll be looking for a used 3rd member to send them lol. good thing marketplace exists

 

Question for this group. Is $400 a fair price for a used front differential out of a 2008? Is that a fair price point that I could expect to sell mine for after the swap is complete to get my money back?

 

Too much. Check LKQ autos website. Got mine for like $250 shipped. Check eBay too

 

Way too much. Car-part.com and search for "carrier"

 

Oh yeah, finding them way cheaper at some somewhat local yards. Is it to be assumed that if they are listed on there that they are pulled from the vehicle already?

 

Yes and no. Some will leave the vehicle complete until a purchase, others will pull and "stock" their inventory. Depends on the yard.

You can also use 01757 (not my zip but close enough) and see if that helps you. I'm seeing a bunch up here in the 100-250 range. I think people shipped the diffs in a 5-gallon bucket so that should help with the shipping calculation if you choose to go that route.

Also, no pressure or anything, but this one appears to have a tcase in the same photo... from a '13 Sequoia. You were planning to go AWD, right?

https://imageappoh.car-part.com/ima...Toyota Sequoia Carrier Assembly-Stock# MFK109

 

Those with the speed master lsd, how are they holding up?

 

Great so far, burns the tires anytime I want.

 

What gear oil are you running with it? I’m really torn between this and the grip pro.

 

I’m running Lucas 85w-140. I’m not concerned about it being too thick in colder weather. I just want that thing to lock.

 

I’ve got about 5k miles on mine: towing, hauling, snow covered roads, patchy ice, muddy access to places. It’s been flawless. It can be a little aggressive coming out of a corner from a stop, but in a good way.

Per my conversation with Speedmaster, they recommend 80w90; straight 140 is for their competition units (the box erroneously says to use 140). I used Castrol 80w90 for the break in because it’s what I had on hand in that weight, then switched to Mobil Delvac 75w90 with no I’ll effect. Both fluids are devoid of limited slip additive. The Castrol is a stout fluid for a conventional and you can feel a touch more engagement mid throttle, but I switched to synthetic for our cold winters.

 

How are everyone’s Motive gears holding up?

 

Mine are doing great in their box under my workbench…

 

Yes, a non-friction modifier additive synthetic 75w90. The additive is not needed since the mechanism is gear friction driven instead of plates and clutches. Friction modifier can do some interesting things and shouldn’t hurt it if that’s what you have. But due to the nature of how it works, it could theoretically cause some odd behavior in a torsen type lsd. IIRC, the theory goes it would make the gears more slippery on initial engagement (meaning less engagement) then ramp up very quickly, for a more abrupt and less predictable limited slip.

My experience comes from running an Auburn pro in the rear for 140k miles or so. The friction modifier would shear down very quickly and need replaced every 10-20k miles else the Auburn gets clunky and noisy. That means I was replacing the fluid every 6-12 months or draining off a bit and replenishing the FM every 6 months. To boot, the FM dilutes the oil (for a lack of better terms) and causes it to wear prematurely. I wanted to get away from that.

I choose a synthetic for its high and low temp properties. Winters are cold and snowy, and I tow a lot and virtually always have a full bed, getting that diff warm.

There is a thread here somewhere with a short list of non-FM gear oils. Mobil Delvac appeared to fit the bill for me: more robust than M1 Gear Oil, reasonably priced by the gallon at Summit, and on the shelf.