PO171 PO174 codes Flex Fuel Sequoia fuel pump conversion

I apologize I'm doing this via phone and will try and capture everything.
Backstory: my wife had just filled her tank on her 2012 flex fuel Sequoia at a cheap gas station and proceeded to get the Xmas lights on the dash while driving. Tried multiple bottles of HEET due to weather temp changes with some minor change but not constant. My bootleg tech stream was having trouble working and could only use my cheap scan tool to pull codes. I got PO171 and PO174. Lean on both banks. I initially didn't have any rough idle or major drivability issues. I dismissed any major vacuum leaks but checked anyway. Without able to see any live data I broke down and bought a new scan tool. Scan tool was a worthwhile investment and recommend. I will try and link it as well. I was getting mid to high 30% LTFT. Next step was fuel psi check. I rigged up a fuel psi tester and wouldn't anywhere from 20-40ish fuel psi while running/driving. After reading a determine I was just going to go ahead and do the fuel pump and conversion of some sort. After skimming through the threads and checking out a video I decided to just order the URD kit and see how it goes.

There's been a couple threads on the tundra side discussing/showing ways to do a flex fuel pump update/conversion. I will try and add those links in. I found a slightly easier way to do part of it that everyone seems to have missed or I haven't seen yet. Possible it's Sequoia only but I haven't done my tundra yet to confirm.
I will ad in just in the additional things I've found while doing this.
Relieve the pain the fuel system somehow. Pulling fuse and trying to start is a good start. I popped the line off on the fuel rail at the D/S front to confirm before undoing any lines below. Unhooked supply and return lines at front of tank at frame rail. Disconnect filler tube and evap lines (big and small) at rear of tank. Removed drive line to see everything better and get more room to work.
Next is the step everyone seems to miss!
The fuel switching valve on the frame rail can be removed by a single bolt on the outside of the frame rail. You can push the valve with lines connected up over the frame rail to get a bunch of slack. Pull the straps and lower tank allowed me to lower the tank assembly about half way down until I need to disconnect the connection at the valve before being able to completely remove the tank. After doing the conversion I don't really know if I like the soft line with hose clamps. I may look or build a 5/16 line to use instead of the soft line in the future as well as build/find a better filter mount. As of right now it's fixed. After one tank my LTFT was at -11% correcting the low psi issue. I will try and clean this up when I get on a computer.
If I did this again, I would build my own kit, it's easy enough.
Also while trying to get this done at 9:30pm while the kid is in bed I got it back together and it wouldn't start. Went to bed, pulled it back out the next morning after verifying the fuse was back in and I seemed to be getting power to the pump. I noticed the first time the slightest discoloration on the top of the module where the fuel pump/sender connection is made. Didn't think much of it until I looked at the connection on the bottom side of the module and the pump harness. They were severely discolored and had gotten a little warm. After cleaning the connections and put it back together it worked flawless. Check those connections people. I believe that the pump was overheating trying to push through the restricted filter and was building heat in the connection. While this was a flex fuel pump conversion, URDs instructions appear to leave alot to be desired but once I do my tundra I can confirm how different the two actually are.
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Previous thread and links
https://www.tundras.com/threads/aftermarket-fuel-pump-install-w-pics-flex.91148/

 

Glad it worked out for you!
How many miles on the sequoia when the fuel pump failed?

 

160k