What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

You have to pull the shocks to adjust them? I thought they were adjustable on the truck?

 

Replaced the pcv valve. I'm assuming it was the original one. Pretty dirty/oily. No idea if it'll effect performance. But an inexpensive part, easily accessible, took 10 minutes. Hopefully it doubles my gas mileage and removes the large dent on the passenger side. Fingers crossed.

 

Looks like you’re missing the little foam cozy that goes over it so you won’t burn your hands.

 

Solid! I like it. I might have to steal that idea when I get around to doing hammer hangers and shock relocation

 

I have always adjusted mine on my truck

 

6112’s arent truck adjustable. I mean, they are if you kive to offend osha, but if you appreciate your hands, its best to oull em off. I really wouldnt recommend adjusting threaded shocks with weight on the truck, either.

 

Don't fear the preload.
Unless you max em out or get close to it, you won't notice a hardsher ride.

 

Its hard to get a good measurement under load.

 

You got eyeballs

 

I wouldn’t call 6112s a truly adjustable coilover. I will always lift the front end up before adjusting so there is no weight on the suspension

 

We have notches. Both mine are on low.

 

Some manufacturers will tell you to pull before adjusting. Main reason being, under tension, the collar/lockring/nut/whatever you wanna call it may cut new and/or strip the threads as you torque on it. This is more likely when you're going in the direction of compressing the spring, versus if you were releasing tension from the spring, IIRC.

Reality is, it's definitely easier to adjust installed depending on whether you're going UP or DOWN. But word to the wise: Always check what your manufacturer recommends before you FA&FO.

 

Not the same thing as what he's running. His should be adjustable with a spanner wrench. Yours are not.

 

He's got many videos on Toyota IFS, his latest is also good for stuffing big tires. Watching most of his suspension videos should really help inform what you want aesthetically vs functionally and break down almost all the pros and cons.

Good luck!

 

And make sure the clean the threads, if it's been on the truck, before cranking on it

 

Fox suggests you pull them off the truck. The shock body and threads are aluminum and I’ve heard you can strip them if you don’t take enough load off them.
I tried adjusting them on the truck with spring compressors and it’s honestly faster off the truck. I think it took 2 hours total for both sides.

 

On the Kings you just jack up the truck and take off the tores, loosen the collar nut, and spin the collar. All while on the truck. But I misplaced my spanner wrench.

 

@shifty` has it right from my understanding. And when I tried using spring compressors with the coilovers on the truck the shock tower or LCA got in the way. It was actually way easier taking it off the truck and adjusting.
I’m not sure if ADS is the same way, but I think I’ve made my opinion clear that I’m not impressed with Fox for our trucks. I would look to radflo as a cheaper option (which I haven’t tried yet. Fox might push me to that point) or just splurge on ADS and be done.

 

Do you by chance have pics of your wolf box set up?

 

Yeah. Thanks for that. I went down a rabbit hole yesterday and watched most of his videos just to realize how fubar my setup is. No wonder I rub on 33s. I need a SAS.

 

I'm starting to think ADS shocks are the best overall option for our trucks. I've never heard a negative review. If money was not a consideration that's what I would pick.

My ICON c/o's will have to be rebuilt at some point and I'm unsure what I'll do at that time.

 

I just can't justify a highly advanced, purpose built offroad shock setup for my uses. If I'm 100% honest, I offroad very little. I commute, I tow, I use my truck for utility things often. Need something robust due to the towing and utility stuff. But not advanced woops stuff (never use it for that unless there are two speed bumps really close together).

 

Very nice.
Where did you order from and what was the total price tag?

 

5100's an all four corners is perfect for my use. Its an Rv that can go off pavement, not a wheeling rig that I camp out of.

 

Since King is semi local to me, their rebuild prices are pretty fair compared to other rebuilders. Nearly half of what one popular shop in SD quotes. Dropped them off last week. Would love to learn to DIY eventually though.

 

Nice truck. I like the setup. I've got that same paint color. Did you use vinyl wrap on the side mirrors? And I see a grill on your garage wall. Do you have a different grill on the truck? I am just gathering ideas!

 

As an update to the last post back around new years...had the driver side wheel bearing changed and an alignment done by the local 4x4 shop. I had noticed my driverside tire seemed to be wearing on the outside edge faster than the passenger based on my last few tire rotations. Hoped the alignment would have fixed it, but have been monitoring it the last two months, and doesn't seem to have changed. Here are the numbers for y'all's analysis, does this mean they actually increased the camber a degree which would make this issue worse? Mostly highway driving. Thoughts?

Before:
Camber: -.1
Caster: 1.9
Toe: .01

Total toe: .12
Steer ahead: -.05


After:
Camber: -.2
Caster: 1.9
Toe: .05

Total toe: .11
Steer ahead: 0

Also, now that its finally starting to average above freezing each day here, time to get going on the valve covers. The

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 seems to have helped out and slow down the trickle. So thanks @shifty`
Gathering up the parts necessary and ordering from Serra (25% off for the next 4 days for those looking, free shipping over $75).
So are these the latest and greatest for my 05 DC?

VC gaskets - 11213-0F010, 11214-0F010
Spark plug gaskets x8 - 11193-50010
Valve cover bolts x18 - 90080-10330 Do we know if this a pack or this is price per bolt?
FIPG -

$21 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

00295-00103

Had also planned on swapping spark plugs and coil packs while in there, but is it necessary if there have been no codes or issues starting? To my knowledge these are originals.

 

Same

 

Are you lifted with stock UCA? That caster number is low.

 

A bit above 2k. Trailbuilt is where I ordered them from. Took 2.5 weeks, which is fine, but they forgot to ship my center caps. Working on that now.